Anyone using the X-T1 and the 56mm f1.2?

Started 7 months ago | Discussions thread
OP CESA Regular Member • Posts: 364
Re: in Response to the 56 mm & 90 mm

LenRivers wrote:

CESA wrote:

LenRivers wrote:

CESA wrote:

LenRivers wrote:

CESA wrote:

Thanks for your reply.

Since you have or had this lenses can I just ask you the following:

One thing I notice is that when the lens is out of the camera, if I grab her and move her gently upside down or rotate her I feel like that the interior is a bit loose. It is like if you can feel everything inside moving. I think the same goes for the 56mm f1.2.

Is this normal?

On the same note, is the 56mm aperture ring supposed to be like very smooth and easy to rotate or it should firmly click?

Thanks in advance.

Yes, normal for these lenses especially I noticed the same in the 90 mm to make like a clunk sound when not attached to the camera. I forget why but I feel like this has been discussed over the years.

Is the 56 mm new or used?

Trying to remember but the aperture ring should have some click to it. if it is really smooth that does not seem right, next I would go to a camera store and ask to see their 56 mm to do a side by side. If that does the same then it is normal.

You could also call Fuji directly and chat with tech support. I have and they usually have the same camera and lens on there side they can try to duplicate what you are telling them.

I recall the 56 mm as a fantastic lens never to sell if you are sticking with Fuji. The 90 mm if you nail focus since you dont have OIS you will get killer results.

Thank you for your time in answering these questions.

All right, so it seems normal then in regards to the 90mm f2. It is a shame in regards to the ois. It should have. The only why to freeze the shot it using high shutter speed. But like you said, if you focus but due to the shacking you move away from the focusing point it is a pain!

In regards to the 56mm f1.2 bought it used marked as excellent but I doubt excellent is the best mark. Probably good +.

The aperture rings actually got the click to it but it seems softer than, for example, the 23mm f,2. Do you have a recoletion of both and how they compare?

Sorry I dont been a bit and I would say the aperture click always gave me feedback. If I recall the 90 mm does not have aperture numbers or maybe that was the 55-200. (maybe?)

Plus, for example, if you are in a certain aperture and you try to rotate in each direction the ring but without leaving that aperture you see that there is slight looseness. Is this normal? Can you understand what I mean?

Do you mean the aperture click stop is not a solid feeling like you have it engaged? If so I think this is something for peace of mind if you have a local camera store to do a in person side by side. Not sure if what you are experiencing is a issue or it is not, just not certain,

In regards to the image quality of the X-T1? Can you comment on that? Does it compare to the X-T2? Or X-T3? I found it to be almost like paint.

When I shot Fuji I went as far as the XT-1. I shot the XE-1, XH-1, X100 S and F.

the XT-1 was a big improvement from the XE-1 I think more of the upgrade vs the XE-2 line etc. Fuji was doing alot of firmware updates as well. fairly frequent.

*******

The cameras are all fine and really all the Fuji lenses are pretty darn good. cant really go wrong. As an aside I played with the 18-135 zoom and it was good as well.

So far as image quality this is what I remember how I set up my camera. Not in any order.

If I recall Dynamic Range is tied to ISO. Meaning Auto DR can force the camera to a higher ISO (something like that) and a bit of a fake looking as you describe looks like paint.

SO

Manually set dynamic range to 100 the lowest and leave it

Manually set ISO all the time,

Manually set your focus point / dont let the camera choose what it thinks you want to focus on

I would test this with your Film mode set to standard. I think Provia it is. Shooting in RAW is always a good thing to do. I use Iridient Developer to process the RAW's

I also suggest you buy the Rocky Nook guide paper back or Ebook for your camera. They were really helpful.. I think Alexander white also has something on Amazon and maybe there is another author as well, but very helpful guides to really explain much better.

Thanks so much for your inputs.

Regarding the dynamic range leaving it to 100% what does this option do?

What's the different between the different options? Cheers

The DR adds to the highlights but if your ISO needs to be over a certain range and I forget the breakdown but one will make DR 200 and I think over 800 ISO DR is 400

IF you are shooting action in bright light for example and need ISO 800 you can set DR to 100 but not if you are using Auto ISO and Auto DR. As I recall DR over 100 gave that painty look you are talking about, so that is the solution.

Thats what is was when I was there. Look for the guide by Rico something or another at Rocky Nook.com It is worth the $20 or $40 whatever it is.

Yeah, I am using DR100 like fixed. Not auto. ISO also fixed - I select it using the dials. I would say ISO1000 is the maximum I would want to go to. Sometimes ISO1600 is the solution but it starts to look too bad. The images start to look like watercolour like the ones we used at school to paint. Do you know what I mean?

I think till ISO800 it is alright although there is a small hint of this effect.

This is not what I was expecting to be honest.

Will try the camera at smaller ISOs outside in the bright daylight and compare. I guess this will put me off.

So you don't know if, for example, XT3 has got the same effect?

How is there people shooting weddings with this? Where they have to crank up the ISO?

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