Transfering 35mm negative to digital form? Some more information about this?

Started 11 months ago | Discussions thread
Paul P K
Paul P K Contributing Member • Posts: 612
Re: Transfering 35mm negative to digital form? Some more information about this?

Andreascy wrote:

Hello . I want some information about converting 35mm to digital.

First i want to say that i wanted for long time to try a film. I was shooting when i was kid with some automatic film cameras but now i took the chance and bought the Nikon F2As. It was sudden buy, it was in really good price from a relative and i bought it. I change the foam seals around and now i am ready to test it. I order some kodak colorplus films but as first try i wanted to try an old 35mm it was sitting in my room for 15 years. Its a Konika 100 film. By the way i set the camera to Iso around 64 , because the film is older and maybe i will get over exposure.

I also found a really good deal of a very cheap epson scanner than can scans 35mm negatives. I bought it because i had some old negatives from the time i was in school and i wanted to transfer in digital. This scanner is the Epson Flatbet scanner model 3200.

Although is very old 15-18 years old i made some testing and the result is very satisfied for me. I also proceed some negatives and the photos looks nice , very similar with the photos was printed 15 years back from a photography lab. i cant test them side by side because i dont have this photo any more but as i remember colors etc is very similar. The software coming with this scanner is very nice and is like small lightroom.

there are many ways to transfer film negatives to screen. Flatbet scanners, 35mm scanning devices and Digital cameras with Macro lenses.

I already choose my scanning device because i dont wanted to spend a lot of money for this, and i think that this epson scanner would be more than enough for me, it can scans 3200Dpi , thats is around 15mp image.

Now to the main part of the thread,

My first question is What things in film photography playing role to have a good image quality? i can understand that a lens is critical and the Film you using? but what about other factors like a camera? Also i can understand that the material using for proceed the film and the way you proceed the film to a negative may have impact in quality but this will proceed by a professional camera store so i hope i can get the best results.

second question is: About scanning devices. I can understand that all scanning devices using a scanning optical Eye to read the film negative. i can understand that the image in film negative is A raw image- like the Raw image of a digital camera. So if i used different method to scan the same negative i will get different results in colors etc? The resolution will be different because is depends about the scanning device and the optical resolving power will give . So lets say if i scan the negatives with my existing flatbet scanner i will get different colors from other scanning devices? is the software of each scanning device a jpeg engine that proceed the image to the final stage?

Thank you very much and sorry for my english :

At the moment I'm in the process of, just for 'fun' (even if it's quite laborious and dare I say at times a bit boring), scanning part of the (several, probably tens of thousands) of negatives and slides of pictures (35mm and medium format) I took in the 80's and 90's

For that purpose I use a somewhat more recent ( I think), but essentially just as basic (and cheap) as yours, Epson V550 (have thought about a Nikon Coolscan and Vuescan software, but that would have either cost too much, or be too complicated for me to work with (Not computer illiterate, but just too old and lazy to learn new tricks)

I use the original Epson software to start with, bit of a pain when I began, but by now I have learned to live with, or avoid some of its peculiarities

I eg avoid the Digital ICE Technology and Color Restauration (Dutch : Kleur Herstel) option, in additional made somecustom output sizes, and avoid scanning b/w negatives in the 'recommended 'Gray' tones profile ( I choose B/W monochrome, in combination with the sRGB color profile, which I convert to B/W in Nikon Capture 2.4.6, see below)

The output based on my working process (the input size is very much, and, based on my selection of the Home Mode, automatically, determined by the Epson Software) always is in (based on the resolution I selected in my custon output profiles) multiple megapixel size JPG'

Which I then post process in Nikon Capture NX 2.4.6 (which as a long time Nikon user still have lying around), giving full color/exposure control and contrast/ sharpening corrections, as well as use of the very usefull Nikon Color Points (so any differences with results of other scanners are pretty much irrelevant, as I modify them according to my personal taste anyway) as well as the option to with a simple click convert in a B/W monochrome file

On top of that it has an excellent dust/spot (which become very evident once even only a mild degree of sharpening is applied) correction tools, so at least for me is very much all I need (I'm not into Photoshop clone/copy/paste tricks, nor stitching or Tim McCurry like 'artistically justified beatifications' )

Ending up in between 8 and 15 megapixels NEF's (always handy if I want to, based on earlier results, make any further modifications later) and JPG's

Using this combination of software allows me to stay away from eg paid Adobe Lightroom/Photoshop,, or other having to pay for software

I'm quite satisfied with the results, even if of course they aren't on the same level as eg with a far better, and much more expensive Imacon (of course not being a pixel peeper helps)

In particular I found that using modern digital technology, to my pleasant surprise I'm able to still get / retrieve quite acceptable results from negatives (and slides) which back in the film days would have been impossible to get a decent print of due to over exposure, over development and other abuse (I admittedly was a bit of a sloppy photographer in that regard, prioritizing getting the image at all costs over technical perfection first) of the negatives.

My two cents

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all in a day's work

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