Latest sample galleries
Latest in-depth reviews
We've been digging around under the hood of the Nikon Z50. We look at what Nikon's first APS-C mirrorless camera does and doesn't offer.
As a non-technical, “I don’t really know what I’m doing” point and shoot nature photographer the settings I learned for birds and wildlife for my Nikon P900 have been very helpful. From the book “Point and Shoot Nature Photography” by Stephen Ingraham - https://psnp.info/psnp_/?page_id=391 Stephen is also an active participant at the Sony CyberShot community here.
I am converting my P900 birds and wildlife settings to my new Lumix FZ1000. Below are listed the conversions plus bits on why these settings are selected. I would be appreciative if readers might be willing to review what I have noted as the comparable FZ1000 setting, function, or control for the different menu items. I wish to use basically the same settings for the FZ1000 that I use with the P900. However, I’m open to suggestions.
Perhaps these setting may be of interest to other new FZ1000 users.
Set Control Dial to P (programmed auto) - I shoot almost exclusively in P
Image Quality to Fine (or the highest setting). This will improve your image quality, but at the cost of writing larger files to the SD card. FZ1000 - Rec Menu - QUALITY top one give priority to picture quality.
Set Image size to “full size” or “large” FZ1000 - Rec Menu - Picture Size L 17.5m
Picture Control programs which determine how your jpeg is processed in the camera. Set
Picture Control to “Standard”. Rec Menu Photo Style set to Standard
White balance on Auto - FZ1000 - On the right side of the control dial.
Exposure area/mode - CENTER. FZ1000 in the Rec Menu it is called Metering. This biases the exposure for you subject, which for wildlife is generally near the center of the frame. Even when it is not, shift your aim and half press the shutter release to lock both focus and exposure on your subject, then while still holding the shutter release half way down, move the subject to where you want it.
Continuous (or Continuous Shooting). For birds and other active wildlife you do not need more than 2-6 frames per second. Set it to Low Speed Continuous. Set the drive mode dial on the top left to MULTI PICS. Then go to the Rec Menu and select Burst Rate - Set to Low which is 2 FPS.
ISO. Leave it on auto. That will ensure that you get the highest shutter speed and the widest aperture at the lowest ISO possible for each shot. ISO setting is on the top of the cursor button.
Auto-focus Area (or something similar). This is where you set the area on which the camera will focus. Choose the smallest, or next to smallest area in the center of the frame. Smallest will give you the most control, but next to smallest will focus faster in most situations.
This setting is a bit tricky because…. From Camera Ergonomics - Direct Focus Area, On or Off Custom Menu Page 3. This is an important decision as it affects the way the camera operates. If Direct Focus Area is ON the AF box can be moved directly by pressing any cursor key. There is no need to press another button to activate the AF box. The benefit of Direct Focus Area is fast, efficient access to changing position and size of the AF box.
The downside is you have to locate access to ISO, WB, AF Macro and Autofocus Mode elsewhere, generally on a Fn button or in the Q Menu. This is not really a problem as there are plenty of options available.
I set Direct Focus Area ON as it streamlines camera operation in the Capture Phase.
Those users who in the past have become familiar with the "focus (with the center AF area) and recompose" style of use might find that Direct Focus Area brings new speed and efficiency to the AF process.
I elected to turn it OFF and program the FN2 button to do the Direct Focus Area because its easy to get to and allows me to still have the WB, ISO, Macro
Noise Reduction Filter set to low - FZ1000 menu under picture adjust it has a scale of High, Standard and Low.
Active Dynamic Lighting - FZ1000 it is iDynamic - This is the function that analyzes the image before you take it to determine if the shadows are going to go black or if you are going to lose detail in the whites and brights. It automatically tones down the brights, and pumps up the shadows as the image is processed in the camera, and removes almost all need for you to worry about exposure. Many cameras have a function which seeks to improve both highlight and shadow detail in one shot JPG capture. In the FZ1000 i-Dynamic is in the Rec Menu, Page 3/7. This works by slightly underexposing the picture to reduce the risk of highlight clipping then applying a tone curve correction to lift brightness in the shadows and mid tones. I set it to Auto but don’t know if this is the best option.
Anything else can stay to factory settings
Additional Settings not on the Nikon p900 -
Zebras These diagonal black and white moving stripes indicate areas of the frame which will be exposed above a certain level.
Zebra 1...Displays areas above a certain luminance level by a right-leaning zebra pattern.
Zebra 2...Displays areas above a certain luminance level by a left-leaning zebra pattern.
I read somewhere a setting of 100%-105% works well for many types of still photos. If there are substantial areas showing zebras you can apply negative exposure compensation to protect the highlights.
Recommendations for JPG shooters:
Other FZ1000 Notes
The least processed jpg is the Natural settings in Picture Control.
Graham - uses:
Noise Reduction (NR) minus 5
Thanks in advance for the effort to slough through all this, and as usual all comments/suggestions appreciated greatly. To note the main reason I like these established settings, and shooting in P mode is I don't have the skill or understanding to futz around with settings when I'm shooting. Thus, I only have to attend to: steadying myself and the camera, get the bird in focus, and if time allows adjust exposure compensation. I have to keep it simple.
|Post (hide subjects)||Posted by||When|
|1 month ago|
Jun 22, 2019
May 9, 2019
Feb 18, 2019
Jan 29, 2019
The Olympus OM-D E-M5 Mark III is a 20MP Micro Four Thirds camera aimed at enthusiast photographers. It shares the same sensor, AF system and 4K-video capture as the flagship E-M1 II and E-M1 X, in a considerably smaller and lighter package.
The Live Planet VR system may look like something out of a science fiction movie, but this stereoscopic, 16-lens camera and its associated cloud platform may be one of the best tools out there for live-streaming events in 360 degrees.
What’s the best camera costing over $2000? The best high-end camera costing more than $2000 should have plenty of resolution, exceptional build quality, good 4K video capture and top-notch autofocus for advanced and professional users. In this buying guide we’ve rounded up all the current interchangeable lens cameras costing over $2000 and recommended the best.
Long-zoom compacts fill the gap between pocketable cameras and interchangeable lens models with expensive lenses, offering a great combination of lens reach and portability. Read on to learn about our favorite enthusiast long zoom cameras.
If you want a compact camera that produces great quality photos without the hassle of changing lenses, there are plenty of choices available for every budget. Read on to find out which portable enthusiast compacts are our favorites.
|Boy On Golden Beach by Buzz Lightyear|
from gold challenge
|Vulcan Duxford-4804 by Mike Engles|
|Wryneck with ants by cangopluto|
from Old Tech: Lens Mounted Via A Custom Adapter
|Mystic mist by Massao|
from Best Photo of the Week...
|21||Wasabi, Kastar and other aftermarket batteries|
|4||Turn on Flash Constantly for videoing in FZ2000|
|3||Extended Zoom Range Disappeared|
|3||FZ1000ii whirring sound...no it didn’t come like this.|
|3||LX 100 - user comments as a pocket camera?|
|3||Lumix GX85 and sports|
|1||Lumix LX10. Cage or mount relocation?|
|1||Panasonic Lumix DC-ZS70 how to get date stamp on my photos|
|1||Largest Steam Locomotive|