It's a moiré pattern and so varies with the angle of the spokes against the sensor horizontal/vertical grid pattern. The views are 100% crops - originals were framed much wider. The darker clover-leaf at dead center is how my target printed and does not represent camera artifacts.Why do the aliasing artefacts have that four leaf clover distribution rather than circular?My targets aren't tasty at all:I have a fridge full of weird speciality beers that were a left over from a local beer festival my partner organised to promote the area she is responsible for regenerating. Unfortunately, I don't like real ales and bitters, more of a cider, wine and amaretto guy :-(Thanks for the comparison, Jozef. I'm jealous of your English beer collection. Here in Texas, one local brewery does a "double IPA" - over 9% alc/vol - it's pretty tasty!Here are some test photos, I did some time ago, between m4/3 and my DP3M (with the super lens that is perfect for the Foveon sensor). Both cameras on tripod with the timer used.Well, I obviously can't come around your house (now you no longer live in Lewisham) and show you the prints, so you are going to have to trust me on this
The maximum print size my new printer can manage is 16" wide (a mere post card by Scott's elevated standards) but as expected, the DP2M and FZ1000 files are completely indistinguishable under the closest scrutiny.
This confirms my original comment about it being really important what you are going to use a camera for. If your pleasure is to examine images onscreen at 100%, then you really will benefit from the Foveon look. On the other hand, if you aim to print on desktop printers, just about every camera looks exactly the same. For printing, you need to get to Scott-world print sizes where it makes the slightest difference.
m4/3 cameras (and superzooms) are a lot more practical and flexible than a DP2M - which is why, given my needs, there is no point using it.
I think there are no differences in detail in prints up to A3+, like you said, exept that the G9 m4/3 sensor (newer sensor then the one from the OP) has much more DR, and more detail in the shadows, and much more real fealing to heavy sun-lit landscape photos, the DP3M photos look more flat or more contrasty (blackish shadows), depends on the way you process the files.
Both cameras have very good IQ, and the m4/3 system is much more handy and fun.
Jozef.
FYI. I measure the top edge with QuickMTF. Feel free to peep ... :-D
As you can see, I neglected to color-balance, so what you see is what I shot. The GH1 did good!
P.S. was getting interested in the "Leica" 14-50mm models until I realized that they are 4/3, not 'micro' ... I'm not into adapters ...
Have to agree with that!Talking of adaptors, I have a few for my SD14 IR experiments.
I also have a focal reducer FX-EF adaptor that allows me to use lot of different old full frame film lenses on my Fuji XE1 (EF mount spec is good for adapting most SLR lenses, even if it means a double mount setup). It gets near full frame angle of view (1.1x crop) and depth of field plus an effective 1 stop increase in lens speed. Those things seem like a win-win adaptor in theory.
I've been play with a cupboard full of old lenses on both cameras (all M42 on the Sigma).
The most annoying thing with adaptors and mirrorless bodies is they make the lenses stick out on a snout which unbalances the handling, especially on rangefinder style bodies that have no proper hand grip.
Not a bad idea ... I've got a couple Pentax M42 Takumars ...You should have a play with (cheap) adaptors on your panasonic - it can accept almost any old lens. Just think of the hours of fun....
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Ted






