My first sample images from new M50

Started 2 months ago | Photos thread
Marco Nero
Marco Nero Veteran Member • Posts: 6,276
Re: My first sample images from new M50

mirrorlessmahmood wrote:

Thank you for taking the time to type all this up. I’m very happy with the camera and lens. Im a beginner photographer so these were my first proper shots with this camera.

if I’m totally honest I had no idea what I was doing with the apertures as I read for landscapes you need a narrow aperture which is why I chose the higher numbers like F22. I will take the feedback on board when it comes to shooting at f/7 next time. I’m still trying it learn how to shoot in full manual but I am happy with the camera.
I also edit in Lightroom so I’m very happy with my progress so far. I’ve been thinking that I may have made the wrong choice to get the M50 and should have gone for the G90 from Panasonic. But that’s maybe due to catching the photography bug and wanting better cameras already!

My reply was just going to be a brief one but I was typing over a period of time whilst doing other things and rather than throw it out, I thought I'd post it regardless.

There's no way to have guessed you were new to photography. That might explain the tilted horizon in one of your shots! There's been a couple of occasions where I've looked closely at the old Panasonic processors but there was something about the color and the way that it rendered detail that didn't appeal to me as much as the Canon sensors and image processors do. The only time the Panasonic Venus Engine (Image processor) caught my eye was probably over 10 years ago. You can certainly mount a good number of Canon lenses to the M-series cameras - which is a major reason to consider them. I think that the M50 will more than likely be more enjoyable to use than the G90 and it will (arguably) offer better results in the long run. I also think that you'll like the colors and image quality from your Canon M50 more.
If you are editing in Lightroom, you should be able to achieve excellent results with lighting shadows and tweaking colors, noise reduction and sharpening. I tend to make those adjustments in Lightroom myself and then resize and touch up in PS before saving... although you ought to be able to do those in LR as well.
If I had the chance to go back and buy any camera for the first time, I'd likely buy another M-series (preferably one with the new DPAF sensor. There's very little that these amazing cameras can't capture.
If you're still getting used to your camera, may I suggest that for landscapes you try using P mode occasionally... even if you just use it to start off with. I used to carry all my cameras in P mode for years. The camera will determine which aperture is suitable and which shutter speed is best for the scene and the Canon DiGiC processor will kick in as well by comparing its own data with what it thinks you are trying to photograph. It's very much like Auto mode but it allows for the retaining of some settings that Auto does not. Just keep an eye on your ISO setting or switch it to Auto ISO. You were correct when you read that smaller apertures result in sharper images... but the smaller the aperture gets, the more likely the chances of "diffraction" occurring. So when you get past certain aperture numbers (each lens is different), the image begins to suffer from softening and optical aberrations... instead of getting sharper. You may not notice it with bright daylight shots but you will likely see the effect in dusk and night shots.
When I hand my camera to someone else, I will often switch it to Auto just to make everything easier for them. But since this is your camera, Just try P-mode for landscapes and cityscapes for a start and then take another shot with M-mode using your own preference of settings. Compare them later to see which ones you like most.. As you compare your images later, you may find that you don't need to use a small aperture to capture your details. f/5.6 tends to be extremely sharp with this lens but you can always go even smaller. However, I think that diffraction starts to occur at f/16 and that will have an effect on the sharpness of your shots. I made the mistake of trying to do a long exposure just after sunset and cranked the aperture up as small as it would go... resulting in a softer image due to the effects of diffraction. This was with the original M camera. The sky was too light and I had no filter to cut down on the brightness... hence my mistake in using a really small aperture.
As you get more confident, you may find that adjusting the shutter speed (Tv Mode) will allow the wider aperture for soft background when you push the shutter speed high enough. Of you can experiment with Av Mode (Aperture) to specifically control your background defocus or to allow maximum light. You can probably hold off on full Manual Mode (M-mode) unless you're trying to shoot something very challenging.
I don't tend to shoot in Full Manual unless I really need to control all the aspects of the exposure. Occasions when I would use M-Mode would definitely include Astro-photography (which this lens is excellent for - especially at f/2.2) and when shooting a product or an important photograph for a client. If I'm in a well lit environment I used to just leave my cameras in P-Mode although these days I tend to carry my cameras using Tv Mode ... just to control the shutter speed.
This EF-M 22mm f/2 STM lens is extremely bright at f/2. And at f/2 it has a very shallow Depth of Field (DOF) compared to other lenses. This means that with a wide aperture of f/2, objects close to the lens are quite sharp and the backgrounds are soft and out of focus. In the case of this lens, the shallow DOF is fairly subtle but it's still quite beautiful in the way that it renders this effect. With this lens the effect is mostly noticeable with portraits and closeups. However, if you are trying to shoot soft backgrounds in bright sunlight, you will need to use an ND filter or a CPL filter to cut down on the light...otherwise your shot will be slightly overexposed. You can always use a smaller aperture but then you'll lose the soft background effect (if that's what you were looking to achieve). The example of your Dog shot is one that looked excellent with the settings you chose... but you could have used a wide aperture (f/2) and this would have blurred the people behind the dog... along with the background. Not too much but enough to make the dog stand out from the background. Again, I think you made the right choice with your settings for that shot.
This is a well featured digital camera so there's plenty of room to have fun and experiment with your gear. Take your time to check out some of the features that are hidden in the menu so you know how to find them if you need them (eg self timer, white balance etc).
I'm a JPEG shooter but this lens (22mm) on the EOS M is a great match and the in-camera lens settings should activate in JPEG mode. I did slam mine in a car door which put a tiny dent in the side of my lens barrel so be aware that the shell on the outside is a fairly thin metal. It's robust though. Whilst I own an M6, our cameras share the same sensor. And I've seen some amazing shots here from other members with the M50. Since the results will be much the same, you could just look at posts and galleries by other members with this lens. That should give you a good idea of what people can capture with it. It was the members here who convinced me to buy this lens for my own use (I was using EF lenses with the optional adapter) and it was great advice. The members here are generally very helpful and can post examples if you ask them to. The 22mm lens is also fairly good for stitching multiple images together to form panoramas - because there's not too much distortion with this field of view.
Anyway, it's late and the sun's about to rise again. I have to go. Good luck with your new camera. There's quite a few professional photographers who use the EOS M cameras for their work because the image quality is so good and they are reliable and small enough to travel with. I think that the M50 will have all the key (and essential) features of the Panasonic that you were comparing it to. The M50 has higher resolution due to the larger sensor and it's also much lighter. Both have full manual control too. So the M50, with the new DiGiC 8 processor, is definitely the choice I would have made between the two.  And it's a very popular camera right now as well.
All the best!

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Marco Nero.

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