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Post a full frame image, and a link to the raw file, please.1. I'm guessing this is normal?
2. Any way to avoid this?
3. Is this part of the recall issue that Z series had? I've checked the serial number no issues.
Jim
--
the last word the last word - Photography meets digital computer technology. Photography wins -- most of the time.
Photography meets digital computer technology. Photography wins -- most of the time.
blog.kasson.com
Uncompressed RAW 14 Bit > https://www.dropbox.com/s/5ems2q6pxjisw2b/DSC_0835.NEF?dl=0
J
JJoyce4699
Guest
That area of the photo is black, yes you will see banding on any camera with on sensor PDAF, if you are pushing a photo that far. (This really needs some bracketed shots)
Looks Like DxO is doing a better job with the banding.
No exposure correction
Shadows 75% push, this would be very usable on social media. Hard to see any banding.
Pushed more, 100% shadows & the banding is back visible. On social media or a print at normal viewing distance, doubt anyone would notice....
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- JJ
Looks Like DxO is doing a better job with the banding.
No exposure correction
Shadows 75% push, this would be very usable on social media. Hard to see any banding.
Pushed more, 100% shadows & the banding is back visible. On social media or a print at normal viewing distance, doubt anyone would notice....
--
- JJ
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SrMi
Veteran Member
Yes, this definitely looks like OSPDAF banding.
The original image is heavily underexposed. The banding appears (LR) with Shadows +100 and Exposure > +1.3 (or Exposure +5 and Shadows >+10)
James Stirling
Forum Pro
That is an extreme push , perhaps try exposure bracketing if you want information in the darkest and brightest area of a subject with such a wide range
Sara Valentine
Leading Member
I disagree. This is an appropriate tone mapping of the shadows to resemble the scene for human perception
Recent Nikon DSLRs can achieve the same, without the banding. That discrepancy should be resolved first before putting any onus on the photographer to exposure bracket.
So i've done some test now:
When using Low Light AF and try to focus when it's really dark so that this function kick in the banding is gone!!!!
My understanding is that when Low Light AF works is uses different AF system so it's not visible on the sensor.
When using Low Light AF and try to focus when it's really dark so that this function kick in the banding is gone!!!!
My understanding is that when Low Light AF works is uses different AF system so it's not visible on the sensor.
Using the process described in this post, here is an animated GIF showing the pushed raw before and after banding removal in RawTherapee. This is actually one of the worst banding examples I've seen - RT doesn't remove it all. Direct link to Animated GIF below:
[IMG width="400px" alt="Animated GIF, before and after banding removal in RawTherapee. Click "Original size" to animate."]https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-3dQRWk8/0/9c2ebbc0/O/i-3dQRWk8.gif[/IMG]
Animated GIF, before and after banding removal in RawTherapee. Click "Original size" to animate.
Here are the full-sized images:
Full-Sized image (Before Banding Removal)
Full-Sized Image (After Banding Removal)
[IMG width="400px" alt="Animated GIF, before and after banding removal in RawTherapee. Click "Original size" to animate."]https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-3dQRWk8/0/9c2ebbc0/O/i-3dQRWk8.gif[/IMG]
Animated GIF, before and after banding removal in RawTherapee. Click "Original size" to animate.
Here are the full-sized images:
Full-Sized image (Before Banding Removal)
Full-Sized Image (After Banding Removal)
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Maybe but i get the same results. My setup:
1. Enable Low Light AF
2. Set to Continues Focus APS
3. Focus on something low light so that Low Light AF function kicks in you will notice this when camera AF starts to be really slow or without that function AF does not work.
4. Hold the shutter button to take 2 shots.
It's not the AF mechanism. The occurrence is entirely dependent on the precise interplay between the highlight and shadow area. The only aspect of this affected by the AF mechanism is if the resulting focus is slightly different, which in turn affects the exposure between the highlight and shadow areas (ie, slight differences in focus mean differing amounts of converging rays, which mean slight differences in brightness). I've reproduced banding with both manual focus and with the lens electrically detached from the mount.
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You won't see this kind of banding with the a7RIII, a7III, or a9. It is caused by Nikon's attempt to remove the effects of PDAF striping.
Jim
And lift as above, I get this:
Noise. Do not see banding.
Regards
--
Once upon a time, a girl with moonlight in her eyes
SrMi
Veteran Member
Once I have lifted the shadows so that banding is visible, the image quality in shadows becomes unusable, IMO.
jfriend00
Forum Pro
Even if there wasn't banding, bracketing and blending is recommended to get better IQ (lower noise) in areas that dark.
Yes, it would be nice if the camera didn't have this banding when doing an extreme push of shadows (and yes, this is an extreme push - it appears to be perhaps 6 stops), but there are known techniques that excellent photographers use to get better IQ, even with cameras that don't have banding. That's part of the point here. And, with cameras that do sometimes exhibit this behavior when pushed this far, bracketing and blending is the ONLY way to get good IQ. As of now, that's just a characteristic of the two Z sensors we've seen. Not a desirable characteristic, but it is what it is. And, it's also a bit weird because it only happens sometimes, not all the time. Others have done research on the topic and if my memory serves me, the banding is only triggered when there's a bright light source nearby in the image.
Fortunately, most images don't require pushing shadows 5-6 stops and when an image might call for that, bracketing and blending are the recommended alternatives.
--
John
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