Alaska Photography Tips

Started 1 month ago | Questions thread
OP SeeTheWorld Regular Member • Posts: 312
Re: Alaska Photography Tips


SeeTheWorld wrote:


I run my own file server here, and I was doing some maintenance on my internet router yesterday. Suspect everything was down when you checked on your phone, but it should be back up now.

Thanks for letting me know.

Obviously, you don't get out and have fun! Great shots! I took a look at your gear list. Pretty impressive (understatement). I'm switching to a bridge camera due to arthritis in my neck.

Yes, I've been collecting Nikon stuff since 1992. And cameras in general since about 1962.

I still have my box camera from about 1968.

Do you do much post processing?

Yes. I post process every shot I show. I shoot in RAW mode, so I have to post-process to make a JPG.

I started out shooting RAW+JPG, but after a few years I had never used the JPGs. If I wanted to print, I used the RAW file. If I wanted a web page, I post-processed the RAW files. So the in-camera JPG's were a waste of time.

I understand your logic.

Are all those great shots coming directly from your camera?

Absolutely not. In fact I even put up a 'Before and After' web page showing what comes out of the camera and what comes out of Lightroom here:

Since my husband and I already have the lights out, I’m trying to open this site on my phone.  Can’t do it.  Thanks for sending, I’ll check it out tomorrow.

Here is one example:

Wow! That’s a big change!

Before (out of camera):


The colors of your photos look great. I don't have any post processing software at the moment. I tried Light Room and didn't like it.

Try again.

I used to use 'best of field' software, meaning DPP for Canon files, Sony's software for my RX100 and Nikon View NX or Capture NX, etc. Then I would assemble the JPG into a working folder and use Photo Mechanic to create simple web pages from them.

It just got too difficult to keep up with, so I switched to Lightroom for all the processing, and some file management as well.

Lightroom CC Or Classic?

Some DPreview people recommended Element?

Adobe Elements. Often comes free with a camera. It's a basic editing program. Adobe Lightroom is better.

I haven't looked it up, yet. Sony gives a post processing software package to people who purchase the camera I have coming tomorrow. I think I'll try that.

Yes, PlayMemories Home is what I used.

I am reading a book, by Friedman, about my incoming RX10M4.  In it he said there’s a newer and better software free to this camera’s purchasers.  The book is also on my phone, and I can’t find the name right now.

What lens and speed did you need for that whale tail?

EXIF data should be intact. (Get an EXIF view add-on for your browser).

I can see that information when on the MacBook Pro but not on the iPhone.  I’ll check the App Store for EXIF view add-on for my phone.

D300, 80-400 AF-D at 1/800th, F8, 250mm.

It was a nice shot!

I get all discombobulated when trying to remember settings and all that out in the field.

Then you need to work on your knowledge of photography basics.

I barely understand it while sitting in our kitchen.

You need to work at it until you understand.

Yes, that’s the eventual idea.  But, I’m not there yet.

My plan is to program two settings into my camera so things are just the push of a button.

Not a great plan...

Then, if not at the push of a button, I’d like to get good at two techniques so I have something to fall back on in the field.

If that doesn't work, I'm hoping to get BIF and Whale tails with the Sport mode on my camera. It worked with my Canon Rebel T3i.

Sport mode - not a bad choice. It will bias the camera for faster shutter speeds.

I shoot the majority of the time in Aperture mode above water. I want to set the aperture to give the look I want. Only aperture can do that so I want it fixed at the setting I want for the shot. I vary apertures constantly.

That’s interesting.

If I am using a long lens (300mm or more), especially with the slow zooms I have (F5.6 for instance), I may go ahead and set the camera to manual mode so I can also set the shutter speed to some (high) minimum value. This is easier with a slow lens because I can then rely on AUTO-ISO in the camera to change ISO as needed. If I have a fast lens, I could get into a situation where I have too much light and the ISO cannot drop low enough.

Ok.  I get that logic.

In any case I keep an eye on shutter speed to make sure it is not slipping too low. (What is too low? For BIF and whale tails, faster than 1/500th. For good BIF shots, faster than 1/2000th. For handheld static subjects, maybe down to 1/60th, with VR on the lens or a tripod. Shooting the D850 is unforgiving on technique, I've been raising my minimum shutter speeds, generally to at least 1/100th.

Good tips, thanks.  I have noticed many BIF shots are 1/2000th.

Thanks for sharing!

Once you get decent at post processing, it gets both faster and easier.

I used to use Microsoft Digital Image 10 on my PC (in the last decade) and got pretty good at post processing.  It’s not available anymore, and I haven’t found anything quite as user-friendly or creative since.  But, I recently made the commitment to take my photo hobby seriously again.   I’ll figure it out.

And you learn to take better shots too, once you've discovered some common issue with camera handling and settings.

Absolutely!  Thanks for the tips and encouragement, Craig.

-- hide signature --

Phoenix Arizona Craig

-- hide signature --

"Never doubt that a small group of thoughtful, committed citizens can change the world . . ." Margaret Mead

 SeeTheWorld's gear list:SeeTheWorld's gear list
Canon PowerShot D10 Canon PowerShot G5 Canon PowerShot G11 Sony RX10 IV Sony RX100 VI +8 more
Post (hide subjects) Posted by
Keyboard shortcuts:
FForum PPrevious NNext WNext unread UUpvote SSubscribe RReply QQuote BBookmark MMy threads
Color scheme? Blue / Yellow