A6000, what else do I need to start?

DigiPainter wrote:

Thank you. This brings up an issue I have been pondering.
Do you have to buy a new port/bulb for each length of lens?

Depending on the port and the lens - some ports can support multiple lenses, some are made for just one. With dome ports, alignment is important - the lenses entrance pupil needs to be as close as possible to the center of the dome port's curvature. Higher-end manufacturers offer extension rings which can be used to customize the length of the ports' barrel to better fit multiple lenses, but Meikon, at this stage, does not.

You cant change your focal length once under water?

If you have a zoom lens, and a gear to operate its zoom, then you can change the focal length. In some cases, zooming is possible without a gear - for example, on Olympus cameras, if you have a power zoom lens mounted, you can operate its zoom with camera buttons.

Which brings up a couple of things for me.

Would the 60mm macro be a good choice given it will also shoot portrait length but will do macro?

There are no native 60mm macro lenses on Sony E-mount. There is one for Canon APS-C, which I suppose could work fairly well for what you describe. There is also one for M4/3 cameras, but due to crop factor, it's better suited for macro to supermacro work.

Now if I want to shoot ultra wide, do I need a dome port? What does the dome port do for me?

When you're shooting underwater, the light that passes through the water/glass/air boundary at an angle gets refracted - i.e. the light rays' path is bent. The sharper the angle of entry is, the more it gets refracted. If you shoot a wide-angle lens through flat glass, the areas on the edges of your frame are seen at a very sharp angle, and this produces very strong pincushion distortion and image quality degradation. A dome port avoids this by having the water/glass/air boundary be present at a right angle (90 degrees, perpendicular) to the path of incoming light all around the lens. See here for examples of shooting different lenses through different ports in a pool: https://1drv.ms/f/s!AupWSggdlFYKjtRFu-IIxyopM8fvAA

Also I freedive, mostly only to 10m ish, do I really need a filter for shallower depths?

I've never used a filter (besides a yellow one for fluorescence); RAW is a better solution for most situations.

Lastly can the visibility be corrected in lightroom to get more clear shots of the subject? Obviously being as close as possible is best, but is it possible to get rid of the haze etc?

It can help some, but there is no substitute for getting close.