The arabian horse in 3-D. SBS plus one to spare effort for others

I used to use a slide bar for digital stereo, until I discovered StereoPhotoMaker freeware. I found the slide bar (which also requires a strong mount or tripod) was just to awkward to use. The results from the slide bar were quite acceptable (with careful technique)

Since I used StereoPhotoMaker (and it's autoalign feature), it's primarily been hand-held single cam cha-cha's.

I also still have a reconditioned Realist f2.8, but have not put any film through it for 10 years...

Realist shots here (sorry, all "crosseye").

https://www.flickr.com/photos/turbguy/albums/72157622321846829

The story about this Flickr Album...

All of these shots were taken with either an f3.5 or f2.8 Stereo Realist Camera made by David White Co.

In the 1970's, my neighbor's eyesight began to fail, so she sold me her f3.5 Stereo Realist so it could continue to see use. She used it VERY heavily for at least 20 years. I used it just as much for over 20 MORE years, until I upgraded to an f2.8 Stereo Realist. It still worked well when I sold it! The Realist is a very sturdy, simple camera. In a pinch, it also can be used as a weapon!

I couldn't afford slide film in those early years, so I fed it re-spooled B&W film, processed it myself, and made Holmes views in my "darkroom", seen here...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/turbguy/4634280265

To produce a single antique Holmes (3.5" x 7") card took about an hour (not including drying time). How things have changed!

I had produced HUNDREDS of negatives that I've never seen printed or made positive. A modern film scanner is changing that rapidly....

Slides and Negatives presented here were scanned with a CanoScan 8400F and 9000F scanner, cropped and re-aligned with StereoPhotoMaker, then tweaked (levels, curves and color balanced) and sharpened with Photoshop. Recently, I have discovered that even very dense negatives can be successfully scanned by fusing three scans at different exposures with Photomatix software.

The scanner can recognize dust and scratches on E6 films and "removes" them. Sometimes this produces small spot "retinal rivalries" as the software "fills-in" or clones the obscured image with extrapolated data from surrounding areas. Spots/scratches on black and white negatives cannot be detected and these remain in the displayed image.

The Stereo Realist can have some "Quirks". Some users have called these quirks "features"! It was common to experience a small light leak on the right film chip using modern high speed (100 ISO) films due to an inadequate film door  light seal. These remain in some of these scans. Another is a slight difference in exposure between pairs. While the shutter is fully sychronized, the irises are not so precise. The scanner will pick up these slight exposure differences and some of this shows as "retinal rivalries" in the highlights (typically in clouds). The solution was to always set the lens aperture from one direction to compensate for very slight "slack" in the iris adjustment mechanism. An example of both "features" is here:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/turbguy/3949565494/in/set-72157622321846829

The f3.5 Realist lenses will vignette heavily when used at f16 or f22. Here's an example:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/turbguy/4468636702/in/set-72157622321846829

It's best to go no smaller than f11 to avoid vignetting. Some of this vignetting can be seen in the scans of early slides and negatives. The f2.8 lenses do NOT vignette at small apertures, and will produce superior photographic results overall.

For a great resource about the Realist, go to DrT's page here:

http://www.3drealist.com

All the images here are arranged for "crosseye" viewing.