Is it time to move on from my T4i

Crotonmark wrote:

RedFox88 wrote:

Expose to not blow out the highlights, and lighten the shadows with computer software

If I’m shooting down an alley towards the sky how do I expose for the shadow areas and not the sky?

With your desire to preserve detail and color in the sky, actually just the opposite is what’s being suggested. Weight your exposure to protect the sky, then lift the shadow areas in Post.

You were quite perceptive however in realizing that increasing the dynamic range available to you (either via a new camera, or different settings/technique) would make your efforts more successful.

what do I physically need to do?

In answer to your question above, there are several methods commonly used to determine exposure, and they’re all personal preference!

One is via the aforementioned histogram.

Or by using the blinkies.

Taking a test snap, chimping, and then adjusting exposure can be very effective.

Note: these are highly useful methods virtually unavailable prior to the digital age (although we did sometimes snap Polaroids to evaluate scenes in the studio). So count your blessings!

The old analog methods for determining exposure still apply though, and can be just as effective.

Set the metering mode to something predictable and repeatable (I like Center Weighted). Meter off of a middle brightness value (that is in the same light as your subject).  Better yet you can use a grey card, or even use the palm of your hand (and compensate).

Use your camera as an incident light meter (via something like the ExpoDisk).

Use a handheld light meter (either incident or reflected).

Use your experience. I shoot full Manual only, and I set the exposure in the ballpark even before shooting (then fine tune using one of the ‘digital’ methods above ).

Do you have a favorite? I/we can expand on any of them for you.

Best of luck,

R2