Is it time to move on from my T4i

Crotonmark wrote:

R2D2 wrote:

R2D2 wrote:

Crotonmark wrote:

I run it to an issue at baseball games and bright days when I’m trying to stop action.

Are you still getting overexposure even at ISO 100? For stopping action, 1/4000 is usually plenty fast enough. Are you still getting subject motion blur at this SS?

I just ask because you choices get very limited (and more costly) if you want that extra stop.

My Biggest problem is shooting at the beach and blowing out the sky. I shoot raw.

The new sensors will give you an additional stop of dynamic range (at ISO 100). Every increase in ISO will cut into your dynamic range though, so keep it low whenever you can.

Also, shooting with the sun at your back will serve to light your subjects better (decreasing your exposure). Shooting at this angle also means that you’ll be shooting into the darkest part of the (blue) sky.

You could also mount a polarizer. Or a graduated neutral density filter.

Best of luck!

R2

Mark?

Sorry - thought i replied

Hey there Mark. Thanks for getting back!

I didn't know - until I posted this thread that ISO 100 gives me the most DR. I will test it out on the T4i

Yup, base ISO will produce the cleanest images with the most detail, dynamic range, color, and contrast.

Base ISO will also give you the only true exposure (exposure being determined by only  aperture and shutter speed!).

Setting a higher ISO than base is in effect telling the camera how much you are willing to under-expose, and the camera then amplifies the signal proportionally, and applies an appropriate tone curve (this being done by the RAW converter software if shooting RAW).  However you must pay the price in the areas mentioned above.  The most pertinent one in your case being reduced dynamic range.

There are times I can't shoot with the sun behind me - i like to shoot down a street to the shore, for example. that tends to blowout the sky - or shooting landscapes.

I know what you mean.  The real world is full of cases where you could use more dynamic range (as in the examples you’ve mentioned).  Bracketing is of course the most effective solution, esp when processed with HDR-capable software (keep in mind that you don’t need to give it that typical ‘HDR’ look though), but I realize bracketing is not always the most practical method, esp with stuff moving around.

And a new camera would be a lot more fun!  

I would also mention (shhhh) that Sony and Nikon sensors do hold an edge in regard to dynamic range, but there are always those other trade-offs.  

I have a polarizer but I don't often install it

I just mentioned it as being a way to help reduce your shutter speeds.  It might however help you with the dynamic range issue in some cases though.  Plus you might like the effect!  Give it a whirl the next time you’re out and about.

Best of luck!

R2