OK all you experts... my turn for some advice

Jerry-astro

Forum Pro
Messages
19,995
Solutions
12
Reaction score
25,003
Location
Hillsboro, OR, US
I think I've said many times here that shooting test charts is a nice start for evaluating gear, but definitely not where the process should end. So, after doing that with my newly acquired 8-16, I decided to go to one of my favorite spots here in Portland, which is the Japanese Garden. This isn't exactly the optimal time of the year to visit, but it does offer a broad range of opportunities for picture taking during various seasons and it's also a great place to shake out new gear and see how well it's operating.

So, in that spirit, I took my X-H1 out along with my new 8-16 and the 16-55. I started with the iconic Japanese Maple that you'll see in virtually any picture of the gardens. Obviously, it's not exactly at its best right now, but since my primary purpose was to give my lens a real world test, it seemed to be a good choice. Some of the results I got were concerning, and I'd sure like to get some feedback from folks to see what you all think. Both images below were fairly lightly processed in LR.

Here's a full res image of that maple taken at 8mm FL.

62543be32d7840f4877714480eeb222d.jpg


Here's a different view of the tree taken at 16mm FL.

9bc10fe1d55d4aa1a797c60be88e50ec.jpg


In both cases, the lower left hand corner of the image seems very soft to me, and I'm seeing that in virtually all of my images. Admittedly, I tend to avoid a lot of pixel peeping and may well be seeing something that isn't really an issue, however, the other corners seem a fair amount sharper, at least to me.

So, how about some feedback from you experts out there? Do I have a duff lens, or do you need some better examples to help me judge that? At $2K a pop, this lens needs to walk on water, and I'm not really sure it's afloat right now. Thoughts?

--
Jerry-Astro
Fujifilm X Forum Co-Mod
 
Last edited:
Hi Jerry,

I do see what your referring to especially in the second image. There's more CA at the corners than I would've expected but I doubt that's specific to your sample. At 8mm/f5 there should be quite deep DoF but I don't know what the field curvature characteristic is of this lens. The corner delineation is less than I expected at f5 but I do see the softness on the lower left side. At a focus distance of 25' you should have everything in focus from 1.92' to infinity and at 15' it drops to 1.83' and my guess is you were somewhere between 15 to 25 feet from the tree but I'm guessing at the size of the tree.

Were these handheld? Do you still have your 10-24? It would be interesting to use a tripod, set the 10-24 to 10mmf4 and also take a shot at f8 and then frame the scene identically with the 8-16 at 10mmf2.8, f4 and f8 and compare. You know you're happy with the 10-24 so I'd compare the two at a similar FL where you'd most likely use them.

Bob

Edit,

I see the second image is at 16mm so I'd do the same test but at 10 and 16mm with both lenses.

--
http://www.pbase.com/rwbaron
 
Last edited:
Hi Jerry,

I do see what your referring to especially in the second image. There's more CA at the corners than I would've expected but I doubt that's specific to your sample. At 8mm/f5 there should be quite deep DoF but I don't know what the field curvature characteristic is of this lens. The corner delineation is less than I expected at f5 but I do see the softness on the lower left side. At a focus distance of 25' you should have everything in focus from 1.92' to infinity and at 15' it drops to 1.83' and my guess is you were somewhere between 15 to 25 feet from the tree but I'm guessing at the size of the tree.

Were these handheld? Do you still have your 10-24? It would be interesting to use a tripod, set the 10-24 to 10mmf4 and also take a shot at f8 and then frame the scene identically with the 8-16 at 10mmf2.8, f4 and f8 and compare. You know you're happy with the 10-24 so I'd compare the two at a similar FL where you'd most likely use them.

Bob

Edit,

I see the second image is at 16mm so I'd do the same test but at 10 and 16mm with both lenses.
All good points. Looks like another visit to the gardens. Consider closing the aperture to f/8 and even go to f/11 for the next tests.

Another Bob
 
Last edited:
Hi Jerry,

I do see what your referring to especially in the second image. There's more CA at the corners than I would've expected but I doubt that's specific to your sample. At 8mm/f5 there should be quite deep DoF but I don't know what the field curvature characteristic is of this lens. The corner delineation is less than I expected at f5 but I do see the softness on the lower left side. At a focus distance of 25' you should have everything in focus from 1.92' to infinity and at 15' it drops to 1.83' and my guess is you were somewhere between 15 to 25 feet from the tree but I'm guessing at the size of the tree.

Were these handheld? Do you still have your 10-24? It would be interesting to use a tripod, set the 10-24 to 10mmf4 and also take a shot at f8 and then frame the scene identically with the 8-16 at 10mmf2.8, f4 and f8 and compare. You know you're happy with the 10-24 so I'd compare the two at a similar FL where you'd most likely use them.

Bob

Edit,

I see the second image is at 16mm so I'd do the same test but at 10 and 16mm with both lenses.
Terrific advice, Bob, thanks. It may be a bit difficult to do that same exact test simply because doing that sort of thing at the gardens can get challenging due to its popularity, with people moving around the tree, etc. It's one of the most popular things people go to see there. However, I can definitely do something similar closer to home with any subject that has sufficient detail to highlight issues like this. I do still have the 10-24, so doing the same test with both lenses would be pretty simple. The issue isn't hard to see where the image has a fair amount of detail.

BTW, to answer your question, yes these were handheld with the X-H1. I'm not seeing any evidence at all of camera shake, though. The rest of the image seems pretty sharp.

I'll get on that tomorrow and post the results. Thanks a bunch... great idea!

--
Jerry-Astro
Fujifilm X Forum Co-Mod
 
Last edited:
If it's not the aperture as others suggested, then the film must have crinkled while going through the transport :-}

Morris
 
Hi Jerry,

I do see what your referring to especially in the second image. There's more CA at the corners than I would've expected but I doubt that's specific to your sample. At 8mm/f5 there should be quite deep DoF but I don't know what the field curvature characteristic is of this lens. The corner delineation is less than I expected at f5 but I do see the softness on the lower left side. At a focus distance of 25' you should have everything in focus from 1.92' to infinity and at 15' it drops to 1.83' and my guess is you were somewhere between 15 to 25 feet from the tree but I'm guessing at the size of the tree.

Were these handheld? Do you still have your 10-24? It would be interesting to use a tripod, set the 10-24 to 10mmf4 and also take a shot at f8 and then frame the scene identically with the 8-16 at 10mmf2.8, f4 and f8 and compare. You know you're happy with the 10-24 so I'd compare the two at a similar FL where you'd most likely use them.

Bob

Edit,

I see the second image is at 16mm so I'd do the same test but at 10 and 16mm with both lenses.
All good points. Looks like another visit to the gardens. Consider closing the aperture to f/8 and even go to f/11 for the next tests.

Another Bob
I can run some similar tests closer to home. Honestly, if stopping it down is the solution, then the lens will go right back to the dealer. Buying an f/2.8 lens that needs to be significantly stopped down to be sharp seems pointless, particularly at that price point. However, for testing purposes, it does make sense.

Thanks much...
 
The image is very strange, especially the second one. The tree branches look like they are an oil painting, there's a definite swirl to them. This looks very different from what I typically see in tree photos... I upload one for comparison, this taken with a Ricoh, but you can see how the rendering of the detail is different.





COmparison image

COmparison image



This is your image at 100%:



54fcc2f627704d79ae2e5f9496a6ce64.jpg.png


This is mine at 100%:



077a6091e7374f5c9f6ec438610f0d34.jpg.png


Yours has been painted as if with a spatula -- a beautiful effect to be sure, but why does it look that way? Processing? Or it IS an oil painting?

--
Luca
 
Perhaps try focus bracketing to get a feel for how it behaves with regard to that variable? And try one set at F8 - and F2.8 as well - to see globally how the lens behaves?

Also, point it the other direction (at the city) to see how it behaves with longer focus distances?

Hope it works out for you Jerry. I'm still contemplating purchasing one.
 
Perhaps try focus bracketing to get a feel for how it behaves with regard to that variable? And try one set at F8 - and F2.8 as well - to see globally how the lens behaves?

Also, point it the other direction (at the city) to see how it behaves with longer focus distances?

Hope it works out for you Jerry. I'm still contemplating purchasing one.
Very good advice, George, thanks. I have my work cut out for tomorrow. May pick a different subject, but the methodology looks good.
 
The image is very strange, especially the second one. The tree branches look like they are an oil painting, there's a definite swirl to them. This looks very different from what I typically see in tree photos... I upload one for comparison, this taken with a Ricoh, but you can see how the rendering of the detail is different.

COmparison image

COmparison image

This is your image at 100%:

54fcc2f627704d79ae2e5f9496a6ce64.jpg.png


This is mine at 100%:

077a6091e7374f5c9f6ec438610f0d34.jpg.png


Yours has been painted as if with a spatula -- a beautiful effect to be sure, but why does it look that way? Processing? Or it IS an oil painting?
Neither. Believe it or not, its the way that tree actually looks. The rendering is pretty accurate.

--
Jerry-Astro
Fujifilm X Forum Co-Mod
 
You can't really judge corner balance without using a flat-field target. No lens of this nature is going to be free of spherical aberrations and field curvature.

Try focusing closer to the hyperfocal distance - say about 2m - rather than infinity. Far field flatness is seldom an issue.
 
I think I've said many times here that shooting test charts is a nice start for evaluating gear, but definitely not where the process should end. So, after doing that with my newly acquired 8-16, I decided to go to one of my favorite spots here in Portland, which is the Japanese Garden. This isn't exactly the optimal time of the year to visit, but it does offer a broad range of opportunities for picture taking during various seasons and it's also a great place to shake out new gear and see how well it's operating.

So, in that spirit, I took my X-H1 out along with my new 8-16 and the 16-55. I started with the iconic Japanese Maple that you'll see in virtually any picture of the gardens. Obviously, it's not exactly at its best right now, but since my primary purpose was to give my lens a real world test, it seemed to be a good choice. Some of the results I got were concerning, and I'd sure like to get some feedback from folks to see what you all think. Both images below were fairly lightly processed in LR.

Here's a full res image of that maple taken at 8mm FL.

62543be32d7840f4877714480eeb222d.jpg


Here's a different view of the tree taken at 16mm FL.

9bc10fe1d55d4aa1a797c60be88e50ec.jpg


In both cases, the lower left hand corner of the image seems very soft to me, and I'm seeing that in virtually all of my images. Admittedly, I tend to avoid a lot of pixel peeping and may well be seeing something that isn't really an issue, however, the other corners seem a fair amount sharper, at least to me.

So, how about some feedback from you experts out there? Do I have a duff lens, or do you need some better examples to help me judge that? At $2K a pop, this lens needs to walk on water, and I'm not really sure it's afloat right now. Thoughts?
Jerry,

In the 8 mm shot, the base of the tree is pretty well focused but the rock is not. The rock should be given it looks to be in the same plane and the DOF whole have it in focus anyway. Same for the 16 mm shot. The rock seems a little better at 16 but it is still out of focus.

--
Truman
www.pbase.com/tprevatt
 
Whoa. I downloaded both files and viewed in Affinity at 100%--what the heck is all of *that*? Some sort of weird blocky effect.

Something is very wrong with the raw processing. No way to start looking at decentering issues until that is solved.

Why not try the free Capture One for Fuji to see how it looks or post the raw files?

--Darin
 
Whoa. I downloaded both files and viewed in Affinity at 100%--what the heck is all of *that*? Some sort of weird blocky effect.

Something is very wrong with the raw processing. No way to start looking at decentering issues until that is solved.

Why not try the free Capture One for Fuji to see how it looks or post the raw files?
I can certainly do that, but if there were a RAW processing issue, none of the image should be sharp, and that’s most definitely not the case. The difference in sharpness between the center and edges (lower left in particular) is very noticeable, and you’ll see a fair amount of detail in other portions of the image that are IMHO pretty sharp.

I’ve been using LR for many years, and while it has its quirks and challenges with X-Trans, I have never seen anything like this that could remotely be attributed to an issue with the RAW processing. This is particularly noticeable here because the sharpness is not uniform throughout the image, where if the RAW processing were problematic, any issues should be evident most anywhere you look, I would think. Not really seeing that here and parts of the image, at least, are IMHO quite sharp.

I may still have the JPGs (I shoot RAW+JPG), in which case I’ll give them a look and possibly post them here as well, if they haven’t already been deleted.
 
I think I've said many times here that shooting test charts is a nice start for evaluating gear, but definitely not where the process should end. So, after doing that with my newly acquired 8-16, I decided to go to one of my favorite spots here in Portland, which is the Japanese Garden. This isn't exactly the optimal time of the year to visit, but it does offer a broad range of opportunities for picture taking during various seasons and it's also a great place to shake out new gear and see how well it's operating.

So, in that spirit, I took my X-H1 out along with my new 8-16 and the 16-55. I started with the iconic Japanese Maple that you'll see in virtually any picture of the gardens. Obviously, it's not exactly at its best right now, but since my primary purpose was to give my lens a real world test, it seemed to be a good choice. Some of the results I got were concerning, and I'd sure like to get some feedback from folks to see what you all think. Both images below were fairly lightly processed in LR.

Here's a full res image of that maple taken at 8mm FL.

62543be32d7840f4877714480eeb222d.jpg


Here's a different view of the tree taken at 16mm FL.

9bc10fe1d55d4aa1a797c60be88e50ec.jpg


In both cases, the lower left hand corner of the image seems very soft to me, and I'm seeing that in virtually all of my images. Admittedly, I tend to avoid a lot of pixel peeping and may well be seeing something that isn't really an issue, however, the other corners seem a fair amount sharper, at least to me.

So, how about some feedback from you experts out there? Do I have a duff lens, or do you need some better examples to help me judge that? At $2K a pop, this lens needs to walk on water, and I'm not really sure it's afloat right now. Thoughts?
Jerry,

In the 8 mm shot, the base of the tree is pretty well focused but the rock is not. The rock should be given it looks to be in the same plane and the DOF whole have it in focus anyway. Same for the 16 mm shot. The rock seems a little better at 16 but it is still out of focus.
Yup, actually the whole lower left, including the rock, looks like... umm... well, really bad. :-)

--
Jerry-Astro
Fujifilm X Forum Co-Mod
 
Did you shoot a 16mm comparison shot with the 16-55?
 
Did you shoot a 16mm comparison shot with the 16-55?
Would have been a good idea, but alas I didn’t. However, I have shot that tree for years now, and never experienced issues like this.

I’m pretty sure at this point that I will simply return the lens and stick with my 10-24 and Zeiss 12. At that price, it’s just not worth the grief, IMHO, and both of those lenses are optically excellent.
 
Did you shoot a 16mm comparison shot with the 16-55?
Would have been a good idea, but alas I didn’t. However, I have shot that tree for years now, and never experienced issues like this.

I’m pretty sure at this point that I will simply return the lens and stick with my 10-24 and Zeiss 12. At that price, it’s just not worth the grief, IMHO, and both of those lenses are optically excellent.
 
Hi Jerry. Was the stabilizer on? Have you tried without. I understand that your are worried looking at the pictures; it looks more line my $160 ZS40 ultrazoom at 24mm equivalent. Have you another body to use to test the lenses?
 
Personally, I would have taken a tripod, set the ISO to the camera's base (200, I guess), selected an appropriate aperture, say f5.6 - f8.0 and fired off a few shots - using the self-timer if necessary. I would not have shot hand-held at ISO 1600. I would also have shot RAW.

You need the best quality the camera can produce to really test a lens adequately. Otherwise you're just testing its ability to take snapshots. Maybe that's a valid test too - but it's a lot of money to spend on a 'snapshot' lens.

Just my humble opinion.
 

Keyboard shortcuts

Back
Top