to: robbert100 - Re: Shutter Speeds
robbert100 wrote:
Great series of pictures Marco!! They really show what this lens is capable of. I under scribe your remark about the lens not having IS. Yesterday my EF-M32 1.4 arrived and making some test shots I noticed a little bit of shake showing at the display of my trusty M1. It’s amazing how quick one got used to IS
Thanks Robert... It's still kind of early days for me with this lens. I'm just trying to get samples out early enough that it helps others to decide if they need it or not and to give people an idea of what I'm getting from mine so they know what to expect from their own. The early Canon samples didn't capitalize on the bokeh this lens produces. I've tried to explore this. As for low-light shots, I haven't dome much of that yet. But Canon offered up a few of those so I can assume my own lens can handle it well.
Something I do when using any lens without ISO is to work out the minimum handheld speed and then increase the shutter speed above this to a "safe zone". A wider lens won't show blur with slight movement but a stronger zoom certainly will. Most of the time when I carry a lens around, I have it set to Tv mode (Shutter Priority). if I suddenly need greater DOF, I'll then either switch to M or Av mode and crank open the lens. If you are used to only using IS lenses then it's very easy to forget shutter speeds. With a fast lens, you rarely ever need to worry about camera shake if you keep your shots over a certain speed and each lens has a different requirement. They say the human hand can handhold a camera for 1/13th second with a wide lens and 1/30th second with a longer lens. Image stabilization can enhance this... but most subjects don't magically freeze so having a faster lens is more important since you can speed up the shutter to freeze the action with less light to be sacrificed.
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EF-M 22mm f/2 lens - usually I carry this lens at 1/250+ second in daylight and 1/60 second in lowlight. Otherwise I leave it in Tv Mode and have never had any blurred shots from it.
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EF-M 11-22mm IS lens - usually I carry this lens at 1/100 second or higher. The day I bought this lens, I took what I thought was a careful shot of the interior of a dome inside a building with decent light at 1/80 second and the image was slightly blurred from movement. This was at 11mm which is strange. I later returned and took the same shot at 1/80 with f/4 and ISO 1600. The result was razor sharp. But I can only presume that the Image Stabilizer was automatically disengaged because I was pointing the camera STRAIGHT UP at the time.
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EF-M 32mm f/1.4 lens - usually I carry this lens at 1/100 second or higher, regardless of the aperture. The only complication occurred when I was shooting panoramas... I was taking a shot, turning slightly and then taking another shot. One or two shots were slightly blurred at 1/60 sec and that's because I was still moving. I even caught myself jerking the camera slightly to take one picture since it was in Burst Mode and I only wanted a single shot at the time.
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EF-M 28mm f/3.5 IS Macro lens - I think I usually carry this one at 1/100 second. I adjust the shutter speed as needed. With some macro shots I need to drop to 1/30 sec but I'm usually bracing the camera on the ground when shooting like that.
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https://www.bettertravelphotos.com/blog/item/shutter-speed-vs-focal-length-rule-for-razor-sharp-photos
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There's a recipe for calculating a safe shutter speed (which many here will be familiar with) where you need to match the focal length of your lens with a specific shutter speed minimum in order to avoid shake.... So a 100mm lens needs a 1/100 sec exposure or it will likely blur with something lower (eg 1/80 sec). An 85mm lens needs at least 1/85 second (hence 1/90+). But that calculation applies to Full Frame... with APS-C the recipe changes to 2x the focal length.
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With the 32mm lens, it's mounted on an APS-C body with the EOS M cameras and that equates to 51mm (equiv). With 2x, this becomes around + 1/60th second. So the safe zone for this lens is ABOVE 1/60 second. I think that the safe zone for this lens will be about 1/80 and above. If you can remember to set your lens to 1/80 second or higher, you ought not to have any issues at all. Hence I choose to carry this lens at 1/100+ You can certainly take shots slower than 1/60 but you'll need to be careful. Leaning against a table, a pole or a beverage glass will allow even lower speeds like 1/13 sec. I'm certainly going to use this lens wide open with lower-than 1/80 second. For general use I expect to shoot a little faster and the bright glass ought to allow it.
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I noticed that ALL the shots taken at f/1,4 with this lens in the dark museum I was in were automatically defaulting the M6 to 1/60 second. All of them. And when using the CPL filter with my ISO set to Auto or ISO 100 I found that my camera again defaulted to 1/60 second in daylight.
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I note that I have turned my Auto Lighting Optimizer OFF since purchase.
I also note that I have turned Highlight Tone Priority OFF since purchase.
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I'm wondering if I ought to have enabled these for yesterday's shoot in the mountains. But I generally used P-Mode for most of my shots to see what the results might be. Normally this is rather foolproof.
