"Pros always use Manual exposure, A and S are for amateurs ..

Started 2 months ago | Discussions thread
Michael Fryd
Michael Fryd Veteran Member • Posts: 9,091
Re: "Pros always use Manual exposure, A and S are for amateurs ..
2

AwesomeIan wrote:

Michael Fryd wrote:

AwesomeIan wrote:

...

I shoot with a K-1 and a D500. Both are considered to be ISO invariant. For that reason I have a clear understanding that if I underexpose on purpose and adjust the exposure in post it would look exactly if I had bumped up the ISO in the first place. The advantage of shooting like that is you can avoid blowing highlights. Not all cameras are like that. Your Canon camera will look much worse if you push exposure in post because it isn't ISO invariant.

Yes. It's very helpful to understand how the camera actually works.

In your case, the ISO setting on the camera does not play a significant role in the lightness of the final image. Hence, ISO is not a factor in either your exposure or image lightness. Yet the "exposure triangle" (ISO, aperture, shutter speed) suggests that your workflow doesn't work.

Whether I push the exposure in post or bump the ISO in the camera it still needs to be done to get correct exposure (at least any time the ISO goes above 100). Therefore, the ISO is an important part of the exposure triangle.

No. "Exposure" is the amount of light that falls on the sensor.  This is dependent on subject lighting, Aperture, and Shutter Speed.

What you are thinking about is the brightness of the resulting image.  While exposure is a factor in image lightness, it is not the only one.

Back when I was shooting film each film had a target exposure that would produce a good working density for the negative.  Image lightness was determined by how I printed that negative.   A good exposure would give a negative with the proper density to work with.  I could print this as a very bright print, a very dark print, or anywhere in between.

In the film world, image lightness is not the same as exposure.

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To be fair, with film it was important to hit a particular exposure range to get a good quality negative.  "Over Exposure" meant that too much light hit the film, and it was too dense.  "Under Exposure" meant that too little light hit the film, and it wasn't dense enough.

In either case the image could be printed at any brightness.

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To be fair, if we are going to predetermine the image processing without regard to the specific image, then a higher exposure generally results in a lighter print.   By the same logic, if we are going to keep the camera settings constant, more subject lighting, also results in a lighter image.

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