Get R now, wait, pass, or switch?

Great Bustard wrote:

That said, it's my opinion that, since I shoot RAW, getting the color I want is a non-issue with regards to differences between the sensors.

Wait until you get a Sony.

Unlikely -- I'm more thinking the R or Z, but leaning towards the R since it's a pain to switch systems. When I look at Nikon photos, I can't ever recall thinking that Nikon color was worse than Canon's.

I never said that. If I did not have so many Canon lenses, I would have seriously considered the Z. But then that R 50/1.2... You have to download those DNGs.

...dual pixel AF...

Yes.

...and thermal noise (but the latter might be due to no IBIS).

I'm not sure this is still the case. My understanding is the that Z suffers no such issues using both a Sony sensor and IBIS.

How would you know that?

I thought someone had said that -- I forget where I read it.

I think that it is too early to say. In any case, I am curious to find out. Nikon have a long history of getting more from the Sony sensors they use than Sony themselves.

BTW, the R sensor has improved dual pixels and microlenses.

Good to hear! However, I saw a base ISO DR comparison and it was [insignificantly] lower than the 5D4, meaning no difference in electronic noise (at base ISO, anyway) and saturation capacity.

This is just one of the factors. I own the 5D4 now which has an improved DR. I probably needed it 1-2 times. On the other hand, color is definitely different than on my 5D2 and I noticed it right away. I should have gotten the 6D2, I guess, just for the color.

Truth be told, what I want *far* more than a sensor with more DR is a camera that takes two or more exposures within user-defined constraints and merges them in RAW.

It would be one huge RAW. Even my laptop take quite a while to do this. A dedicated chip would be faster, but still...

For example, let's say I took a photo of a scene at 24mm f/8 1/200 ISO 100. I'd like the camera to, say, take a photo at 1/50, 1/100, 1/200, 1/400, and 1/800 and merge them all into a single RAW HDR file. Should be easily doable handheld if the lens has IS or the body has IBIS.