rx100 m1,2,3,4,5,6; RX1r; General Topics. my threads in one place

Started 8 months ago | Discussions thread
OP elliottnewcomb Forum Pro • Posts: 16,291
Re: 9-1-18 update

Rluizsm wrote:

I'm trying to compare and understand the behavior of both cameras under the same scenario and light conditions.

1. you are overthinking it.

2. you are comparing apples to oranges.

3. you have both m4 and m6, a wonderful pair. m4 for brighter lens, close low light and motion. m6 for reach, including Jpeg extra zooms. You shoot RAW or Jpeg? Even better would be an m5A and an RX10m4. (if you would use the big RX10).

4. m5A is simply putting the newer more advanced processor of the RX10m4 and m6, now available, in the m5 which already has the PDCD sensor.

5. Image Stabilization Varies.

m1,2 IS sucks, I need S mode to guaranty 1/60th handheld minimum, thus cannot use P or A. And, M in m1,2 does not allow Auto ISO, so it limites ME using M.

m3,4,5 IS is very good, I use 1/30th handheld, 1/20th if needed, thus I can use any PASM

m6 IS is more aggressive than prior models. I am able to handhold at surprisingly slower speeds than m3. That reduces the need for the camera to use higher ISO. Therefore, all things you read are not necessarily equal for everyone.

Following up on my first post, today I took some photos for a simple comparison (https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4313948).

I just reviewed that thread, you got some understanding there.

using the Superior Auto Mode,


Who is in charge, you or the machine? Who knows the objective, you or the machine? Who knows your handheld steadiness (good or poor), you or the machine?

Superior Auto may (not always) take multiple shots and blend them, you need to hold the camera steady for a while after shutter press. That is a disadvantage shooting handheld and especially when using a darker lens (m6) at a probable slower shutter speed.

Any darker lens will need a slower shutter speed to keep ISO/noise low; or (if motion involved, shake or subject), higher ISO/more noise. Or, a bit of both.

Both Superior Auto and Auto (auto always takes only 1 shot) use ONLY Multi/Large/Full Frame AREA SIZE for both Focus Area and Metering Area, and exposure compensation is un-available. Auto is the Point and Shoot implementation of these sophisticated cameras, and often leads to less than ideal or unsuccessful results.

P mode is Auto with Options, to change settings: Primarily to help the camera's AF and Metering systems 'SEE' your subject, thus achieving improved focus and metering of your subject.

P, without setting changes, is IDENTICAL to Auto.

P with setting changes, is advanced auto. Camera still determines shutter speed, aperture, and iso as auto does.

I recommend anyone at least change to center area size for both focus and metering. Then, learn when and how to use spot focus (I am liking the newly available expanded spot focus). Stay in center metering for a while, then learn spot metering, it solves specific situations, like a spotlight on a singer at a concert. Forcing the camera to see, thus think, more light is available.

Back to Multi/Large/Full frame metering when Center metering is giving poor results. IOW, specific focus on your subject using smaller and smaller areas, will not give focus problems, whereas, using a smaller specific metering area can lead to trouble.

Next, learn exposure compensation while shooting (now available in P). With all my rx100's m1,3,6 and my RX1r, OUTDOORS, I often shoot -.3 or -.7ev, to tame highlights, get some sky detail and sky color, and lift shadows in post. This is exactly what in-camera DRO (dynamic range optimiser) does. Lifting shadows in post, you will be amazed how much detail lurks in the shadows, and your highlights will not be problematic, your skys will not be bland. Trying to cut highlights in post, more than a little, leads to trouble fast.

IF sufficient light, OUTDOORS, I use a CPL to get even more sky detail, better sky color, and solve sspecifics: 'see' thru glare, i.e. thru water surface to rocks below, i.e. thru store or auto windows to see interiors. CPl might/will change greens, so I look for a happy medium.

Most of the photos taken with M4 used ISO 800, only once it used ISO 1000. With the M6, ISO ranged from 800 up to 6400.

m6 Noise Reduction, Jpegs, is very advanced, it produces acceptable images at ridiculously high isos. Of course everyone's level of acceptance varies, but I am quite happy with some of the night shots I got while testing in Ocean Grove.

m6 subject isolation using it's extra range 100-200 (and the Jpeg extra zoom SZ) is terrific, a major reason I re-acquired one. This is not always about far subjects, I use it when close, shooting flowers, small creatures, people. Subjectss within the range of m1,2,3,4,5 but far more subject isolation due to the different lens. Don't forget, m6 extra reach saves an old person's knees and back in many situations, no small consideration in my case.

Stop comparing them and use them for their strengths.

I hope, others concerned about the m6 darker lens will get from this: it is nowhere as limited as you might think, extra IS, extra Jpeg NR, in-camera multi-frame noise reduction, mini-tripod, use of some flash, there are many ways to get the m6 advantages and many ways to solve the darker lens. If you want it, I suspect you will keep it. After all, I have tested the holy crap-pppola out of it for you, so solutions you might not have needed are now known to you.

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