Beginning into photography

Started 8 months ago | Discussions thread
PhotoTeach2 Senior Member • Posts: 9,437
Re: Beginning into photography

Hight Fly wrote:

Mackiesback wrote:

John Michael Winterbourne wrote:

"You do realize that most people recommend the camera they own/love"

You need to be careful here, because as far as I can see from my quick look back over this thread, you're the only contributor who has actually done that. Everybody else has actually answered the question asked - "I'm about to get a Nikon D300, and would like advice about what lenses I should buy."

I think the mood of the thread (apart from your interventions) has been "well, the D300 might not be the ideal starting point for a beginner, but if it's free, lets see what advice we can give about lenses."

Honestly, you are much better at diplomacy than I am.

The person who accuses others of only recommending what they personally use is literally the only one on this thread doing it, and doing it with a level of zeal that makes me want to crawl through my screen to make it stop. Meanwhile always preaching to others to keep it simple for beginners while flooding then with terms like leaf shutter and ETTR, something they will have no clue about. This is literally the opposite of teaching.

I have to admit I couldn't understand everything because of all the acronyms.

I understand that and I apologize ...


The NOISE in an image is directly related to the level of exposure.  Less (and VERY NOISY) exposure is related to the "left" and best/optimum exposure is related to the "RIGHT".  So for lowest noise you much "Expose To The RIGHT" (ETTR). That can be very problematic in dSLR's because you must rely on the "metering" indicator which is a SEPARATE sensor and does not have any idea what the "Dynamic Range" of the scene is, (YOU must make a mental evaluation yourself and that takes practice and experience).  So in many ways your initial exposure is a GUESS (albeit an "educated" guess).  Remember that w/ SLR/dSLR the light is directed up to you eyes and NO LIGHT reaches the "sensor" itself until after shutter is released and the "mirror" flips up.

With Mirror-Less the light is going directly to the sensor and all exposure/white-balance and FOCUS can be more accurately determined.  The image you see a WYSIWYG virtually identical to what will be recorded and you can make appropriate adjustments/corrections.

Newer ML have what are called "zebras" where "over" exposed areas are identified w/ (zebra) stripes.  You can easily/fast reset aperture or shutter-speed to eliminate those "zebras", (or leave them if they are from a "light-source" or other bright reflections and you may choose to allow them to remain saturated to decrease the noise in the rest of the overall image.  Thus ETTR is the secret for getting the best IQ and lowest-noise.

Note that "noise" can be a very severe issue w/ D300 because it is an older sensor and thus already limited to (only) ISO-3200, (compared to > 100,000 ISO w/ newer sensors).


The "leaf" shutter simply allows using flash, at ANY SHUTTER SPEED.

A (dSLR) Focal-Plane type shutter can NOT allow flash above 1/250s.

When in SUN-light, that means you must use f/11 when using flash.  That means the D300 (GN-30) is limited to (only) 3' in SUN-light.

The FZ-1000 (GN-48) built-in flash can be used up to 20' in SUN-light.

These photos cannot be duplicated w/ dSLR, (w/out PP or separate flash placed "close" to subject).



NO / Flash




FLASH in SUN-light @ 1/4000s @ f/8

What a colossal hypocrite.

To the OP, when I shot DX, I had a Sigma 17-50 2.8 that was a great lens, better than the Nikon offerings at the time. Good range, plenty bright, just a great all around lens that I think you will love as well. You can get one lightly used in the states for around $300. You don't really "need" stabilization at those focal lengths. I would start there and get to work learning what you like the most and what you have no interest in and go from there before spending more.

I'm slowly getting to a conclusion.

Either I get a Sigma 17-50, or a Nikon 16-85.

On Top of that I can get a very nice telephoto lens 70-300m, from Nikon maybe.

The problem is that I keep changing my mind over and over! At the beginning I thought: "we'll go for the 16-80" then I realised it was too much money to begin photography with and it would be better to spend it carefully so I thought about other things... And now I'm there. Who knows what I'll buy at the end?!

I would say the only thing that stops me from taking those options is that I wonder if I'll have sharp portraits or not. Nevertheless, I think I will be totally satisfied the first months and then I'll probably know what focal length I want for Christmas and get a 50mm or a 85 (if I have the money haha).


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