FZ1000, Perseids, 500 Rule, which focal length to use?

Started 4 months ago | Questions thread
PhotoTeach2 Senior Member • Posts: 8,426
Re: FZ1000, Perseids, 500 Rule, which focal length to use?

Flycaster wrote:

PhotoTeach2 wrote:

Flycaster wrote:

What is the dark mask and how is it disabled?

It is in the "camera" (top) menu list ... look for "Long Shtr NR" (Long Shutter Noise Reduction). select and change to "off"

LSRN was already OFF.

OK, then you should not have to worry about that extra delay between shots.

ISO 1600 will show "stars" (bright ones) ..... but the "Milky Way" is millions/billions/trillions of "dimmer" stars, (and will pick up the (dimmer) "meteors" better.

But won't an ISO of 3200 introduce quite a large amount of noise? Obviously, there is a trade-off: Brighter images, but with more noise. OK, so more noise with 3200, does handling it with software (I use NIK) blur the image too much?

Well, try some both ways ... (its a simple "click") ... but I don't think "one" most ISO-stop will make a significant difference.

PP-NR is selectable so you don't use it to the point it "eats/blurs" stars.

NOTE that you can also use "+2" (or even +3) EC.

That will BRIGHTEN the background on your initial review, (and the "stars" will be saturated but that may be OK).

So the background (blacks) will be (almost) "white", so you will then need to DARKEN the ("white") background to (a desired) BLACK again. AND it will then have LESS NOISE because you exposed it ETTR.

Note that even w/ "0"-EC, the sky will be slightly "over" exposed because it will record as a "gray", (instead of "black"). The "correct" instruction would be to use -1/-2 to make it originally record as "black", but that would guarantee a higher noise level.

So there two separate contradictory rules in play here ... first is the "correct" use of EC, (to originally record an image as a correct black-or-white). But the second is to use ETTR for lower-noise, (and using PP to return the image to a desired black-or-white).

But note that I have conceded the "stars" will be saturated. So honestly not sure if that is actually a fully practical idea. (but would be a nice "experiment")

BTW, it looks as though tonight will be relatively clear (at least it is now.) Tested everything, all seems to be working fine. Camera is outside acclimating between the A/C and the outside humidity. Sharply focused, f/2.8, ISO 1600, 20" exposures every 20" for 300 shots. Time lapse set to go off when I first depress the shutter...fingers crossed.

I now have the FZ-2500 and there is NOT a "20"second setting. I have 15 and 30 seconds. (I forgot if the 1000 had a 20-second setting).

HOWEVER ... I think you need "some" time between the end/start of next exposure so not sure if you can shoot 20/30 second exposures, and timed exactly 20/30 seconds apart. So I would put about 5-seconds between them, (25 or 35 second intervals). But I have only used the time-lapse once and that was over 2-years ago, so you may be more familiar with its settings at this point. Just make sure they don't actually over-lap.


I really want to know EXACTLY what all you do tonight and to see some results.

I am learning some here also because I have not done exactly what you are doing.

(and I can't go see them because of our, nearby, California fires, so our sky is smoky)

Post (hide subjects) Posted by
Keyboard shortcuts:
FForum PPrevious NNext WNext unread UUpvote SSubscribe RReply QQuote BBookmark MMy threads
Color scheme? Blue / Yellow