Two weeks with the SX720: some questions (photo n00b)

Wugzz wrote:

First thing I did while I wasn't yet familiar with the various modes and what X or Y do, was force lower ISO in P mode (80~400) and from there it took me only another day or two to realize every picture looks better at 80~100 anyway.

P mode with manual ISO control is a good choice.

Second issue I sought to correct is the wrong brighness or contrast which also only rarely fell right in AUTO, most pictures ending up slightly too bright in broad daylight,

You can adjust the overall exposure in P mode by clicking +/- (up) button and then using the wheel.

When you half press, the camera shows the exposure settings it would use. This could help you understand where to start in M mode when you need it.

I went and tried Tv, Av, M modes;

• M : too complicated for me yet
• Av : mmh...not sure what to expect here but I couldn't get any right shots with it
• Tv : that one did it. with ISO prior set to 80, then controlling the shutter speed I've managed to get closer to the kind of pictures I want: least possible noise and control of the brighness in most conditions I've faced so far (clear day and Moon shots)\

For the moon at night, Tv or M is a better choice. As you've noticed, the cameras tend to over-expose due to the very dark sky. For hand held shots at max zoom, you probably want a shutter speed higher than 1/120th. 1/160th or more will be better. If you use M, just set the aperture to the widest value. Tv will do this automatically.

And while I'm here; should I worry about manual focus?

Only if camera AF isn't working well for you. You can also use AF lock: Hold the shutter in half press, and click the focus mode (left) button. The camera will switch to MF mode, with the focus set to the distance where it autofocused. This lets you focus on something and then compose your shot, or fine tune.

If you set "AF Frame" to center, you can pick exactly what you want the camera to focus on.

Two options that can help you use MF are "Focus peaking" and "MF-point zoom".

Focus peaking outlines edges of things that are in focus. MF point zoom magnifies part of the screen. While in MF mode, you can use the "info" button to change the point zoom level.

Should I disable the stabilizer? idk if it even affects quality (I shoot long distance subjects a lot but still waiting for delivery of my tripod)

You should generally leave the stabilizer (IS) on, except maybe when you are using a tripod. At long zoom, handheld shots without IS require extremely high shutter speeds to get good results. Using IS does not normally have a negative impact on image quality.

If you are using a tripod at long zoom, you should use the timer so the camera has time to settle from the button press, or use the app to shoot. At max zoom without IS, it can take several seconds for the effects of a shutter press to settle out.