Never worry about battery life again (even with ML) -

Viable concerns. It might be a case by case basis, some battery doors have the little space, some dont, but i have no idea which. Im not above "creating" one if that were needed. I know some people would object to a sealing breech but i don't even have a sealed lens so it's not much an issue for me.

One other option, if you have a grip, it could be possible and perhaps preferrable to just remove the battery door and attach the grip to where it secures the wire, it shouldnt be tight enough to damage the wire and would protect it from getting snagged, and would give you a flush bottom surface again. This is likely what i would do.

One thing i also noticed a minute ago is they only seem to make the battery inserts for Nikon, Sony and Canon. I don't see a way to make it work with MFT or Fuji without the dummy battery. Unfortunate as that would have made those options much more attractive for me if i wanted to add a ML body to my kit.
Panasonic makes an AC Adaptor for it''s M43 ML cameras that use a DC Coupler (which fits in the battery chamber of the camera) to run their cameras from AC power. That is what that opening is for on the bottom of the battery door.

You can get a real Panasonic one for $18.

https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Charger-Panasonic-Camcorders-DMW-DCC8/dp
Better than nothing for some but not much use for me, i don't have any intention of being hooked to a wall socket. I wonder if there's a way to run a USB pack to the battery insert.
Yes, the USB voltage is 5 V and the device you linked is a 5V to 8.4V converter to allow a USB supply to provide voltages needed by camera.

The Panasonic external device goes from AC to 8.4 VDC which is the camera battery voltage that connects to the inside battery emulator.
--
"We've come prepared
Suspending all benevolence
You've bathed in arrogance
Our retribution we will bring
She flies on unforgiving wings
Your children in Heaven shall weep and grieve
As holy gates open and nothing leaves
So down the cattle chute you will move
And die for him who's died for you...
Blinded by our pride we've missed the signs
We now beg of you, Lord, hear our cries.
The scars you've made altered the plan
Our end will never be ushered by man
So down the cattle chute you will move
And the burden of Earth will be removed
You are quarantined to the abyss
With all life forms deleterious
You have lost all that you will ever lose
Your request to be saved by God, refused !"
- The Subjugated
 
Better than nothing for some but not much use for me, i don't have any intention of being hooked to a wall socket. I wonder if there's a way to run a USB pack to the battery insert.
Yes, the USB voltage is 5 V and the device you linked is a 5V to 8.4V converter to allow a USB supply to provide voltages needed by camera.

The Panasonic external device goes from AC to 8.4 VDC which is the camera battery voltage that connects to the inside battery emulator.
Interesting, it sounds like the different brands may be compatible? Not sure how needed that Panny one is either way, i looked up the Case Relay coupler and even B&H has tons of different battery inserts listed from multiple brands. One way or another i think all the major cameras are covered from each brand.

Looks like the choices are wide open again.
 
Found an awesome product. The caveats, you have to deal with your hotshoe being occupied (or find another way to attach it), and you will have a cable present from your battery door (maybe it works in a battery grip too?) going to the adapter. Aside from that, you are only limited by the USB pack you can afford.

It's called the iFootage Electric Ray. It gives you a converter to attach the USB pack to, and a dummy battery to fit in-camera. Some USB charger packs are 30,000 mAh. I can't say for sure if every USB battery pack is the proper voltage for any camera, that's something to look into, but i think i will be getting one of these, and it makes the battery life issues of ML a little less a problem if i go that route down the road (Sony can already do similar).

Just thought anybody wanting a way to rig more battery life on the go might be interested. Below is the Nikon version listed on B&H. HERE is a video explaining it i found on YT.

2ba2d03f184447148cb66d48e353fa3c.jpg


--
"We've come prepared
Suspending all benevolence
You've bathed in arrogance
Our retribution we will bring
She flies on unforgiving wings
Your children in Heaven shall weep and grieve
As holy gates open and nothing leaves
So down the cattle chute you will move
And die for him who's died for you...
Blinded by our pride we've missed the signs
We now beg of you, Lord, hear our cries.
The scars you've made altered the plan
Our end will never be ushered by man
So down the cattle chute you will move
And the burden of Earth will be removed
You are quarantined to the abyss
With all life forms deleterious
You have lost all that you will ever lose
Your request to be saved by God, refused !"
- The Subjugated
My Sony A6300 can charge and operate the camera with power from the USB port. So doesn't even need one of these.
 
Found an awesome product. The caveats, you have to deal with your hotshoe being occupied (or find another way to attach it), and you will have a cable present from your battery door (maybe it works in a battery grip too?) going to the adapter. Aside from that, you are only limited by the USB pack you can afford.
I, for one, won't :-)

Rather use the spare battery + USB type battery charger + USB power bank. At least, if the battery caches fire, I still am safe :-D

Also cheaper too.
It's called the iFootage Electric Ray. It gives you a converter to attach the USB pack to, and a dummy battery to fit in-camera. Some USB charger packs are 30,000 mAh. I can't say for sure if every USB battery pack is the proper voltage for any camera, that's something to look into, but i think i will be getting one of these, and it makes the battery life issues of ML a little less a problem if i go that route down the road (Sony can already do similar).
There are 2 camera battery types. The 3.7v and the 7.2v. The USB is 5.0v, thus will charge the 3.7v type directly (via voltage step down circuit).
AFAIK, there are USB-C specs that allow charging at up to 20 volts and 5 amps. Both power source, destination, and cable need to be compatible.

See:

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB#Connectors
My BLN-1 battery is 7.2v type. There's voltage step up circuit in the charger. The charging is not fast, but does works flawlessly.

--
Flashes of my Memory.
 
Found an awesome product. The caveats, you have to deal with your hotshoe being occupied (or find another way to attach it), and you will have a cable present from your battery door (maybe it works in a battery grip too?) going to the adapter. Aside from that, you are only limited by the USB pack you can afford.

It's called the iFootage Electric Ray. It gives you a converter to attach the USB pack to, and a dummy battery to fit in-camera. Some USB charger packs are 30,000 mAh. I can't say for sure if every USB battery pack is the proper voltage for any camera, that's something to look into, but i think i will be getting one of these, and it makes the battery life issues of ML a little less a problem if i go that route down the road
(Sony can already do similar).

Just thought anybody wanting a way to rig more battery life on the go might be interested. Below is the Nikon version listed on B&H. HERE is a video explaining it i found on YT.
My Sony A6300 can charge and operate the camera with power from the USB port. So doesn't even need one of these.
I mentioned that, highlighted above. But in my research recently i also read a lot of people claiming it's not perfect. Depending on the usage and the camera, there's apparently issues with not providing enough juice coming straight from the USB pack.

As i understand it with the Sony design, the packs are continuously charging the internal battery, while that battery then powers the camera. Problem is, most USB packs don't provide enough voltage (current?) to keep up with camera demands. I assume this is with heavy video use, probably 4k, perhaps stills bursts. Maybe casual use is ok.

But there were enough people scattered around the web saying the same thing to suggest there's truth to it. Regardless how and when this issue happens, with a converter like in my OP, that's never a problem.
 
I think the cure and risks look worse than the disease. Would you risk a third party simulated battery in your $2500 camera?
I made my own and have been risking it in three A7 series bodies for about 2 or 3 years now. So.. Ya, I would.

Mine is a $12 dummy battery bought on eBay hooked up to six 1.2v 10,000 MAh NiMH D cell batteries in a tray for a total of 60,000 MAh. I can shoot timelapses for over a week.

I have also used the same batteries and tray in my Canon t3, Sony A7, and also my Nikon 8700, plus another A7, so make it 6 cameras I've tried it with.
 
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I think the cure and risks look worse than the disease. Would you risk a third party simulated battery in your $2500 camera?
I made my own and have been risking it in three A7 series bodies for about 2 or 3 years now. So.. Ya, I would.

Mine is a $12 dummy battery bought on eBay hooked up to six 1.2v 10,000 MAh NiMH D cell batteries in a tray for a total of 60,000 MAh. I can shoot timelapses for over a week.

I have also used the same batteries and tray in my Canon t3, Sony A7, and also my Nikon 8700, plus another A7, so make it 6 cameras I've tried it with.
There is nothing technically challenging to connecting a load of NiMH D cells to power a simulated battery in your camera, But it certainly limits the flexibility and portability of your camera with it. And yes, there are certainly risk doing so that a UL or CE certified Li-Ion battery protects against by insuring there current and heat fuses.

BTW, your 6 batteries are in series so you only have 10,000 MAh at 7.2 volts, not 60,000 MAh.
 
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Found an awesome product. The caveats, you have to deal with your hotshoe being occupied (or find another way to attach it), and you will have a cable present from your battery door (maybe it works in a battery grip too?) going to the adapter. Aside from that, you are only limited by the USB pack you can afford.
I, for one, won't :-)

Rather use the spare battery + USB type battery charger + USB power bank. At least, if the battery caches fire, I still am safe :-D

Also cheaper too.
It's called the iFootage Electric Ray. It gives you a converter to attach the USB pack to, and a dummy battery to fit in-camera. Some USB charger packs are 30,000 mAh. I can't say for sure if every USB battery pack is the proper voltage for any camera, that's something to look into, but i think i will be getting one of these, and it makes the battery life issues of ML a little less a problem if i go that route down the road (Sony can already do similar).
There are 2 camera battery types. The 3.7v and the 7.2v. The USB is 5.0v, thus will charge the 3.7v type directly (via voltage step down circuit).
AFAIK, there are USB-C specs that allow charging at up to 20 volts and 5 amps. Both power source, destination, and cable need to be compatible.

See:

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB#Connectors
It's not conventional signal USB, but Power Delivery (PD) USB. You won't see it in the general market/shop or airport.

It also requires special PD USB cable. This USB PD is an optional part of the USB 2.0 and 3.x specifications.

You can't find power bank or charger of the USB PD anywhere.
 
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Mine is a $12 dummy battery bought on eBay hooked up to six 1.2v 10,000 MAh NiMH D cell batteries in a tray for a total of 60,000 MAh. I can shoot timelapses for over a week.

I have also used the same batteries and tray in my Canon t3, Sony A7, and also my Nikon 8700, plus another A7, so make it 6 cameras I've tried it with.
There is nothing technically challenging to connecting a load of NiMH D cells to power a simulated battery in your camera, But it certainly limits the flexibility and portability of your camera with it. And yes, there are certainly risk doing so that a UL or CE certified Li-Ion battery protects against by insuring there current and heat fuses.
He use NiCd to supply power to the camera through the dummy battery. There's no Li inside camera so I think his setup has no risk at all.

BTW, there some technical challenging in connecting external power source. The shutter mechanism requite surge of electrical current for a brief moment. If the power source has high internal resistance, there'd be seriously voltage drop and the shutter mechanism may fail, or become unreliable.

BtW, the NiCd has very low internal R, thus has no such problem. In fact some flash model/brand does not allow using of NiCd to power it as that very low R'int may cause high current surge and damage its circuit.
 
Not being funny that is the price of another oem battery or 2 third party batteries.
 
91bcc24b0d2b463da784f37eddde9549.jpg


which has an integrated USB port there and slots for us to put in an USB power bank.

Not sure how dslr works but for the M43, we can add a tiny voltage stepper to step up the usual 5V USB power bank into 9V in between the Power Bank and the camera, by a coupler (dummy battery) can power the camera for a very very long time.

The beauty of the above integrated USB port bags, is of dual USB ports, or some in sling bag or shoulder bag design, have seen them in all various sizes even some are camera bag/backpack.

--
Albert
 
My camera shoots with a USB cable plugged. I'd rather keep a power pack or 2 in my camera bag and just run a cable from that to the camera.
 
Found an awesome product. The caveats, you have to deal with your hotshoe being occupied (or find another way to attach it), and you will have a cable present from your battery door (maybe it works in a battery grip too?) going to the adapter. Aside from that, you are only limited by the USB pack you can afford.
I, for one, won't :-)

Rather use the spare battery + USB type battery charger + USB power bank. At least, if the battery caches fire, I still am safe :-D

Also cheaper too.
It's called the iFootage Electric Ray. It gives you a converter to attach the USB pack to, and a dummy battery to fit in-camera. Some USB charger packs are 30,000 mAh. I can't say for sure if every USB battery pack is the proper voltage for any camera, that's something to look into, but i think i will be getting one of these, and it makes the battery life issues of ML a little less a problem if i go that route down the road (Sony can already do similar).
There are 2 camera battery types. The 3.7v and the 7.2v. The USB is 5.0v, thus will charge the 3.7v type directly (via voltage step down circuit).
AFAIK, there are USB-C specs that allow charging at up to 20 volts and 5 amps. Both power source, destination, and cable need to be compatible.

See:

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB#Connectors
It's not conventional signal USB, but Power Delivery (PD) USB. You won't see it in the general market/shop or airport.
Yes
It also requires special PD USB cable. This USB PD is an optional part of the USB 2.0 and 3.x specifications.
Yes
You can't find power bank or charger of the USB PD anywhere.
Hope some one builds it. Some Apple iPads can use this feature with their charger and USB-C to Lightning cable. A power bank would be nice. {example: iPad Pro 12.9", USB-C to Lightning cable, 29W charger [all Apple brands] - cut the recharging time drastically over the original 12W charger}.
--
Flashes of my Memory.
 
Re: Never worry about battery life again (even with ML) -
I think the cure and risks look worse than the disease. Would you risk a third party simulated battery in your $2500 camera?
I made my own and have been risking it in three A7 series bodies for about 2 or 3 years now. So.. Ya, I would.

Mine is a $12 dummy battery bought on eBay hooked up to six 1.2v 10,000 MAh NiMH D cell batteries in a tray for a total of 60,000 MAh. I can shoot timelapses for over a week.

I have also used the same batteries and tray in my Canon t3, Sony A7, and also my Nikon 8700, plus another A7, so make it 6 cameras I've tried it with.
You conveniently deleted the relevant portion of mamallama's post regarding the current (Amperage) if you connected the batteries in series.

To make sure I understand you correctly, would you mind posting a schematic diagram of your battery set-up? I'm only interested in the battery connections. Include an ammeter to measure the current. Use a resistor in your diagram and an ON-OFF switch.




As an alternative, use the camera as your load. You may add a separate ON-OFF switch or use the camera power switch to complete the circuit.

Thanks.
 
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Maybe not for day to day, but time lapse, and video use or other fringe uses this could prove to be an asset. For me a battery grip is enough, and the dummy cell with a 12v power adaptor into a 12v power source is my back-up.
 
Amateur astronomers need portable power supplies to operate their telescope, tracking system, dew heaters, imaging system, computer, etc. at remote sites with no wall socket in sight.

Checkout the Astrophotographer Talk forumon DPR,

or Google "telescope power pack".

Many of them have 12V outputs and USB ports; some even have 24V outputs too.

Some of their needs require enough power [dew heater, imager cooling system] that mean they should provide any surge of power your camera may need.
 
Re: Never worry about battery life again (even with ML) -
I think the cure and risks look worse than the disease. Would you risk a third party simulated battery in your $2500 camera?
I made my own and have been risking it in three A7 series bodies for about 2 or 3 years now. So.. Ya, I would.

Mine is a $12 dummy battery bought on eBay hooked up to six 1.2v 10,000 MAh NiMH D cell batteries in a tray for a total of 60,000 MAh. I can shoot timelapses for over a week.

I have also used the same batteries and tray in my Canon t3, Sony A7, and also my Nikon 8700, plus another A7, so make it 6 cameras I've tried it with.
You conveniently deleted the relevant portion of mamallama's post regarding the current (Amperage) if you connected the batteries in series.
No, I did not. You've replied to the wrong person.
To make sure I understand you correctly, would you mind posting a schematic diagram of your battery set-up? I'm only interested in the battery connections. Include an ammeter to measure the current. Use a resistor in your diagram and an ON-OFF switch.
Yes.
As an alternative, use the camera as your load. You may add a separate ON-OFF switch or use the camera power switch to complete the circuit.
I already use the camera on/off switch, like normal.
 
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I think the cure and risks look worse than the disease. Would you risk a third party simulated battery in your $2500 camera?
I made my own and have been risking it in three A7 series bodies for about 2 or 3 years now. So.. Ya, I would.

Mine is a $12 dummy battery bought on eBay hooked up to six 1.2v 10,000 MAh NiMH D cell batteries in a tray for a total of 60,000 MAh. I can shoot timelapses for over a week.

I have also used the same batteries and tray in my Canon t3, Sony A7, and also my Nikon 8700, plus another A7, so make it 6 cameras I've tried it with.
There is nothing technically challenging to connecting a load of NiMH D cells to power a simulated battery in your camera, But it certainly limits the flexibility and portability of your camera with it. And yes, there are certainly risk doing so that a UL or CE certified Li-Ion battery protects against by insuring there current and heat fuses.

BTW, your 6 batteries are in series so you only have 10,000 MAh at 7.2 volts, not 60,000 MAh.
This is true at 7.2volts. However, you'll notice I mentioned that they are 1.2 volt batteries. I did this because most people I talk to don't realize that NiMH batteries doffer in voltage from alkaline batteries. Volts x amps = watts, hence why I described at 1.2

That said, my Meike battery grips with two aftermarket 2200 mAh np-fw50 copies is enough for most long timelapses or long video sessions.
 
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I think the cure and risks look worse than the disease. Would you risk a third party simulated battery in your $2500 camera?
I made my own and have been risking it in three A7 series bodies for about 2 or 3 years now. So.. Ya, I would.

Mine is a $12 dummy battery bought on eBay hooked up to six 1.2v 10,000 MAh NiMH D cell batteries in a tray for a total of 60,000 MAh. I can shoot timelapses for over a week.

I have also used the same batteries and tray in my Canon t3, Sony A7, and also my Nikon 8700, plus another A7, so make it 6 cameras I've tried it with.
There is nothing technically challenging to connecting a load of NiMH D cells to power a simulated battery in your camera, But it certainly limits the flexibility and portability of your camera with it. And yes, there are certainly risk doing so that a UL or CE certified Li-Ion battery protects against by insuring there current and heat fuses.

BTW, your 6 batteries are in series so you only have 10,000 MAh at 7.2 volts, not 60,000 MAh.
This is true at 7.2volts. However, you'll notice I mentioned that they are 1.2 volt batteries. I did this because most people I talk to don't realize that NiMH batteries doffer in voltage from alkaline batteries. Volts x amps = watts, hence why I described at 1.2
Yes, most people realize that NiMH D cell batteries are only 1.2V and your camera needs 7.2 V. Your setup only provides 10,000 MAh at 7.2V, the voltage that operate your camera.
That said, my Meike battery grips with two aftermarket 2200 mAh np-fw50 copies is enough for most long timelapses or long video sessions.
 
Mine is a $12 dummy battery bought on eBay hooked up to six 1.2v 10,000 MAh NiMH D cell batteries in a tray for a total of 60,000 MAh. I can shoot timelapses for over a week.

I have also used the same batteries and tray in my Canon t3, Sony A7, and also my Nikon 8700, plus another A7, so make it 6 cameras I've tried it with.
There is nothing technically challenging to connecting a load of NiMH D cells to power a simulated battery in your camera, But it certainly limits the flexibility and portability of your camera with it. And yes, there are certainly risk doing so that a UL or CE certified Li-Ion battery protects against by insuring there current and heat fuses.
He use NiCd to supply power to the camera through the dummy battery. There's no Li inside camera so I think his setup has no risk at all.
This setup does not provide any short-circuit protection which UL or CE certified Li-Ion batteries provide. The certified Li-Ion batteries also provide overheating protection but that is not a concern because there are no batteries inside the camera.
BTW, there some technical challenging in connecting external power source. The shutter mechanism requite surge of electrical current for a brief moment. If the power source has high internal resistance, there'd be seriously voltage drop and the shutter mechanism may fail, or become unreliable.
Using the right size wires and good soldering techniques should solve this as the internal resistance of good NiMH batteries are sufficiently low.

BTW he is using NiMH batteries not the now obsolete NiCd batteries.
BtW, the NiCd has very low internal R, thus has no such problem. In fact some flash model/brand does not allow using of NiCd to power it as that very low R'int may cause high current surge and damage its circuit.

--
Flashes of my Memory.
 

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