K-1, 14 months, 20000 photos (gets a bit nitpicky)

Thank you for chiming in

Back in the days when they used a red led it was a little more logical. But I wished they could add half a cent on manufacturing cost and add a multi colored led that is red during charging and green when fully charged.

Yup, or two LEDs or a PWM control that pulses the LED.

I know some people think this is pitiful nitpicking, but I had a situation where the battery wasn't correctly seated and the light went out because the battery no longer touched the contacts. User error, sure, but avoidable for a few cents.

When using one-touch bracketing with 2s timer, there should be no 2s waiting time between shots, it should only be between shutter press and the first exposure.

2s delay is implemented for avoiding mirror slap, so it has to be done on all shots, or do K1 hokd up the mirror during the whole brackting sequence?

I would leave the mirror and then 2s is not needed. However, things get weird: In LV the mirror stays up but we still get 2s delay. In OVF, the mirror flip flaps, which is pointless and we then need the 2s.

2s can be the difference between easy merging for HDR and terrible ghosting.

Bracketing with 2s timer should arguably always default to one-touch bracketing.

Not neccesary. There could be times you need 2s delay but manual control when the shot is done. It seems more that you need a remote or should use a smartphone to start your brackting sequence. And if this would no longer be possible someone else would be upset as they are using that feature.

In which instance do you want 2s delay between bracketed shots?! 
I have the remote, but I think there can be little disagreement that it is generally best if we do not need extra equipment. 
If there is REALLY someone who wants 2s between bracketed shots: Fine, add it to the bracketing drive mode.

And does not K1 have countdown timer for timed bulb shots too?

Good point!
I don't see anything. No count-up in untimed bulb and no count-down in timed bulb.

Camera estimates 195 (sometimes 200?!) DNGs on 16GB Sandisk card - but routinely gets over 300. Roughly: Maximum RAW image size I get is 75MB, smallest is 40MB. (Average 48MB over 2200 varied photos) Wow!

The camera show minimun amount of shots it can capture, not an estimate.

I realise that, just the difference is enormous. I have no idea what the compression of the embedded JPEGs is, but I assume it has something to do with that. The Sony A850 as less

An estimate would be much worse as then it sometimes would capture less than it would estimate.

Oh of course, totally agree!

The difference between 195 and 200 may be because of different raw formats.

It seems I have slightly different batches of the same Sandisk memory card!

Use shake sensors to detect tripod in SR auto mode.

I think it already try to do that. But it's probably safer to use a remote as that disables SR completely. And pressing the shutter button by hand on tripod may induce vibrations that SR need to compensate for so in that case you probably need to use 2s timer which also disables SR.

That's how I use it, was just wondering

Pentax choose a different route with quickshift for screwdrive lenses so I doubt they will make any changes. And I'm not sure they ever will release any new screwdrive lenses.

Fair points, not nice for backwards-compatibility and third-party support, but makes business sense, I guess.

There is an simple workaround for this though, and it is to hold in the lens release button as it will retract the screwdrive. But not recommended on lenses with focus ring that is hard to turn, but AF lenses usually have minimum friction on the focus ring.

Ah, forgot about that! Yes, probably best on a tripod unless you are very flexible with your fingers/hands

How does NR AUTO decide? A mix between exposure time and ISO, but it would be good to know in advance whether ot not a darkframe exposure will be done, even in auto mode.

In auto it also use sensor temperature as input, so it's probably only after the shot is captured it decides if it should use NR or not.

Ok, that makes sense. Switched it off for now. The Sony A850 switches off darkframing for bracketing and burst. Which makes sense, but I can imagine other people prefer the Pentax way.

Liveview AF with screw drive lenses is not very good: both indecisive and inaccurate. It feels as if it wants to go faster than it can. Maybe offer a "slow but sure" option? [Edit: there seems to be a slow mode that the camera chooses "in emergencies", but the problem shows up earlier.] Liveview AF accuracy can be shockingly bad.

I they kept the option for PDAFin LV, because of it works better on some lenses. Sigma lenses are known for unreliable AF in LV using CDAF.

Is there a word missing? Maybe "I wished they kept"? In that case, I assume you mean the old flip mirror, focus with standard PDAF, flap mirror, LV style? 
That should work, but I (obviously) don't understand how CDAF can be so bad sometimes. I am not talking about not locking, that I understand. But "reliably" misfocusing as I experienced with my long zooms, that is befuddling.

On-sensor PDAF would be nice, I guess, but it's a different technology altogether, so didn't want to include it.

It's because they use two completely differrent designs, where the Sony sensor is fixed on rails while Pentax sensor is free floating. Most manufactures today use similar system to Pentax (including Sony).

Sure, that wasn't a criticism, just an observation

I wonder if that difference is due to the additional axes the new Sony and Pentax systems can compensate compared to the older Sony system? Not sure how it was for older Pentax systems.

Cheers

Jens