EX2f Raw development

Although the EX2F is a wonderful enthusiast model (well, I think so), it does have its limitations in DR.  And at times, I've discovered that the best way to save hi-lights is to set your metering to Averaging (not the multi-segment variety).  If you are going to use the multi-patterning metering, it's best to dial in anywhere from -.3 to -.7 exposure compensation.  You'll find it's a bit easier in bringing up some of the shadows than it is to try and save the hi-lights.

OK - having said that, here goes.  The key to remember is that folks often overdo it with various settings in lightroom.  In other words, too much PP'ing can overdue the results and end up actually altering an image so much that it can appear ruined.  Thus prompting some folks to retort that somehow the IQ is not good enough.  One area that can be affected are trying to back off the hi-lights too much, thus actually introducing a purple tinge into the image (mass purple fringing effect?)  That's because the hi-lights have been lost to the point that trying to bring them back even further introduces this PF effect, so you have to be careful.

The DR scenario is a biggie and first of all, I keep my EX2F settings as follows:

1.  METERING:  Sometimes I keep it on Multi-pattern metering, but dial in anywhere from -.3 to -.7 exposure compensation.  They key here is to save the hi-lights.  The algorithms in the Samsung EX2F multi-pattern metering.  Other times I select the center weight average metering because for some situations, the hi-lights are better saved.  It's your call and only experimentation will work here.

2.  ISO:  I try to keep mine set to ISO 80 or 100 - but usually not more.  Thje EX2F isn't particularly a hi-ISO champ.

3.  AF FOCUS AREA:  I keep mine on Selection AF, meaning I can move around my AF point as I set fit (although the actual AF window is a bit small).

4.  IMAGE ADJUST:   I keep my contrast set to -2, my sharpness set to 0, and my saturation set to 0.

I tend to shoot RAW only and my editing software of choice is either Lightroom or mostly ACR within Photoshop.  Since most of the settings within both Lightroom and ACR are the same, here is what I do - keeping in mind that these are general settings, meaning they may vary from photo to photo.  Because weather conditions can change what you need to do with your RAW file.

I will provide some sample files below.

The Basic Tab:

1.  Look at your color temperature.  Although most cameras have very good AWB settings, some may render images either too warm or too cool for a given scene and lighting.  Sometimes you may have to move the slider to the right a bit - especially during bright, clear sky conditions.

2.  Exposure - as needed (but first try to adjust hi-lights and shadows with their respective sliders).

3.  I don't mess with the white or black sliders at all because all this does is to lighten or darken them.

4.  I stay away from clarity unless I absolutely have to, because clarity is similar to a sharpening scenario and can add noise and/or glitter.

5.  Saturation - add only if needed, meaning if your image is very flag, add saturation accordingly.  I typically add only +10 to +15.  If it still looks a little flat, I then add a big of vibrance - but don't overdo the vibrance as it can lead to very unnatural scenarios.

The Sharpening Tab:

Here's where most folks will screw up an image, either making the sharpening overly unnatural, or may not add enough.

Sharpening amount:  I go no higher than 35 (read below under detail).  I typically set it default to 35.

Radius:  I keep it at 1.0

Detail:  Now here's the secret that many folks don't know about.  Oftentimes, folks go nuts with their sharpening amount above - with the resultant problems being that halos appear around items in the scene.  With detail, I typically always set it to either 50 or 60.

Masking:  Keep it at 10 - because raising it will soften an image.

Luminance Noise Reduction:  I typically set +15 or +20 in good, clear days - but as high as +25 or +30 on darker, cloudy days which can cause noise in many of the shadow areas.

Luminance Detail:  I usually leave this alone.  Same with Luminance Contrast.

Color Noise:  Now here's the kicker - Adobe sets the default at 25.  I always move this slider back to only 5.  Why?  Color noise can, in some cases actually try to blend the colors of similar items and I've seen instances in where in some scenarios, very small items (i.e. leaves) can be lost if this is set too high.

Color Detail and Smoothness - I typically leave this alone.

Lens Corrections Tab:

Click on the profile tab and make sure that "Remove Chromatic Aberration" is checked.  Then go over to the "manual tab" and adjust your purple fringing tab anywhere from 5 to 8 (sometimes you have to choose a higher setting due to lots of PF in the scene).  Then come down to the vignetting area and slide the "amount" slider slowly to the right and check your corners to make sure their lit properly.

Effects Tab:

Now here's a little weapon that many folks don't know about.  If you have weather conditions where it's overly bright and hazy (or no haze, but very bright), adjusting the Dehaze slider can make the blue in the skies darker (almost like a polarizing filter).  But you have to watch the whole screencarefully because it can darken your shadows a bit also which you may not want.  I love this particular tool, that's for sure - but you have to be careful because it can introduce entirely too much contrast.

Some EX2F image samples taken with the settings mentioned above.  All Images were shot in RAW mode, AWB, Aperture Priority (ranging from f3.5 - 4.5) - IS engaged.  Conversions were made within ACR.  Batch framing were added to the web samples using IMBatch software.  Web JPG's were created at a 90% quality setting and resized to 1600 x 1200 (I don't post full sized images because it can get irritating).

Jolo Vineyards and Winery in Pilot Mountain, NC.  You can see Pilot Mountain in the background - looks like a little nipple sticking up.

Jones von Drehle vineyards and winery in Thurmond, NC (foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains).

Downtown Mt. Airy, NC (Mt. Airy was the setting for the fictional town of Mayberry on the Andy Griffith TV show that ran in the 60's and 70's).  The actor Andy Griffith was born here in Mt. Airy.

You haven't eaten pies until you've tried them at Miss Angel's Heavenly pies in Mt. Airy, NC.

Two men playing checkers by one of the shops in Mt. Airy - scene looks like it could have been taken 50 years ago.

The dining area of the Fairfield Inn, Elkin, NC - situated right in the heart of wine country in the Yadkin Valley, NC.

Oh yes, what would some samples be like without at least one cat photo, ehh...

Winery and tasting center at Jones von Drehle vineyards in Thurmond, NC