Re: Panasonic vs. Olympus bodies with a bagful of Panasonic lenses
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In my experience, Panasonic is more likely to blow highlights than Olympus. I usually have my Panasonic cameras set to -1/3 or -2/3 Ev for that reason. I nearly always have the camera set to display the image with highlights to check, so I can reshoot if needed.
Which is one reason I always shoot RAW. If you are a JPG shooter, then I suggest you shoot RAW+JPG (which I used to do), and then you can toss the RAW if your JPGs are okay, or use the RAW to recover if they are not. At any rate, I eventually stopped shooting JPG at all, and now shoot exclusively RAW.
The big difference (for me) between Panasonic and Olympus is that Olympus will show blown highlights/crushed shadows in live preview, allowing you to adjust the exposure before shooting. This is the Highlight/Shadow option for EVF and LCD. It applies to JPG, so you might not blow highlights in RAW even if it's indicated due to the increased headroom. But there is an adjustment for this; I set it to maximum because I shoot RAW. I shoot a lot of concerts/events where the lighting can be very harsh, and use this to ensure that my subject is not blown out even if there are a lot of bright lights that are.
BATTERY POWER: My Panasonic bodies can be easily powered by external battery using the dummy battery terminals that are used for AC power. Olympus requires you buy the battery grip, and an AC adapter that plugs into the grip; it's no simple matter to provide external battery power with that solution. I don't know why they won't support this, since the Olympus batteries are total wimps compared to my Panasonic GH3 batteries. In fact, putting the camera in a cage where it's not simple to access the battery port means Panasonic is still the video solution.
REMOTE CONTROL: For me, the Panasonic remote control app is better than anything else I've used (Olympus, Nikon). My application is a bit specific, but I will shoot events where I put the camera on a boom and control with iPhone, then bring it down and immediately shoot by hand, and then back on the boom. I can establish iPhone connection and use either iPhone or camera controls without changing the connection.