Prime 2/3-lens setup

FTOG wrote:

bs1946 wrote:

... I've actually gone through eleven different primes with my X-E2, trying to figure out that perfect combination for me.

In my case, I discovered that I tend to use just one lens 95% of the time and also, since going digital, I rarely use anything longer than 23mm. I also discovered that after more than 55 years of shooting film, I do better with manual focus lenses. Right now I'm using the X-E2 with the 14mm f2.8 and 23mm f1.4. Both have the AF/MF clutch plus DOF/Distance scales so, I can use either as a traditional manual lens or quickly switch to AF; the best of both worlds. And as with my other combos, the 23mm gets most of the use.

If you're not happy with the 27mm, get rid of it. Also, don't forget that a 50mm lens will give you a 75mm FOV while still performing as a 50mm lens otherwise.

Thanks for the input, Bill. 35mm or 40mm FF equivalent is my sweetspot as well. Therefore my main focus is on deciding about a 23mm or keeping the 27mm.

I have considered adapting some manual lenses to the Fuji, but unfortunately some eye issues don't make my manual focusing very fast or reliable -at least on an EVF. The old matte screens and the rangefinder patch focusing feel easier and faster to me, personally.
Which is a shame, since I would have particularly Olympus OM and Leica M lenses from 24mm through 135mm which could be fitted through adapters.

Last year, my eye doctor said you're starting to get cataracts but it will be years before you have to worry about them. Ha, years turned into months and my distance vision turned to c**p. Should be getting surgery to remove them in a few weeks, But I was playing around with my Minolta MD 50mm f1.7 on my X-E2 and I can still focus it well.

My manual lens focus method on the X-E2 is to shoot RAW with film simulation set to B&W, peaking set to red, high or low, and the lens wide open. The red peaking shows up real well against the B&W image and once I'm focused, I stop down to whatever aperture I want to use for the shot. Blue works also, but red seems better to me. Sometimes, if I'm doing a landscape with a lot of green foliage, I change the film simulation to Velvia and the peaking to white. Against all the green, the white peaking is impossible to miss. After I have the RAW file, I can do a jpeg with whatever film simulation I want.

I'm using a Fotodiox MD/FX adapter but if I had some great M-mount lenses, I would consider investing in Fujis M-mount adapter to get full use of the Mount Adapter Setting.