Olympus 75mm f1.8 or Canon EF 85mm f1.8?

jonkid2049

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Hello to all amazing people!

I have this question, because, it's important to me to be cost effective! So i was wondering to get Oly 75 1.8, BUT considering the price, well, you know! (I just want OOF/blurry backround)

(If there was a 60mm f1.4 at a reasonable price, it would be fine! Sigma at 2.8...still not there i think...)

The 85 on APS-C also has the slight advantage of beeing a "little wider", "137.7mm vs 150mm", and, a ""little faster"" (2/3?)...

Beeing the cons, the size!

I would like you to say something that can help me, beeing that the quality from the Canon setup, not just the 85mm but the other cheap and "small" lens they have (like both 24mm/50mm)if i decide to change my system to Canon!! :o

I don't know if the size difference between the Oly+14mm+25mm+75mm / Canon+24mm+50mm+85mm would be so big...

AF is important for me, so...

Many thanks in advance!
 
Sorry! I forgot to say!

My question is about to choose from having 2 bodies (OMD M10+14mm+25mm and Canon ? + 85mm) OR get to the Oly 75mm.

There is still one little chance to go for the Canon setup, all the way. I say little, because sometimes i can go with just the Oly+25mm or 14mm for portability... Thank you!
 
Do you already have a Canon body and/or Olympus? And is the question pertains only to a 75mm vs 85mm?

Don't know much about Canon 85mm(I gave up on Canon a long while ago) but I had a Samyang 85/1.4 (Nikon APS-C mount, MF). The DOF is thinner and harder to mail. It's heavy but balance well on a D7100. I sold my Nikon setup.

I can attest the 75mm/1.8 is more enjoyable to use. It's heavy relative to my other m43 primes but much lighter than the Samyang.

Keep an eye for a refurbished 75 - they are around $590 (and if you're lucky an additional 20% during clearance days).
 
If there was a 60mm f1.4 at a reasonable price, it would be fine!
85mm f/1.8 on a Metabones Speedbooster gives you 60mm f/1.3. With Canon you would have autofocus AFAIK.

Metabones is expensive but there are other brands offering such adapters.
 
AF is important for me, so...

Many thanks in advance!
Take the Olympus.

It is smaller, nicer and faster when you don't need to worry about a adapter and so on.

You can go and get the dreamy 85mm f/1.8 to put as 60mm f/1.4 or so, but the problem is that you will need to stop it anyways down like 75mm f/1.8 to around f/2.8-4 to get enough DOF for the portraiture in most cases for tight half-body portrait (50x90cm framing). And you will get better background with 75mm than 60mm.

If you are really serious about portraits, get Olympus 150mm f/2. That is a lens that will just blow everything else out, almost on any format (similar would be a FF with 200mm f/3.2).

That is, if you really want blurry out of focus backgrounds and subjects in focus. You will not achieve that with 50-85mm (eq).

At 240cm distance the 45mm f/1.8 captures about 70x92cm area.

At 400cm distance the 75mm f/1.8 captures same area.

At 240cm distance the 45mm f/1.8 acceptable DOF is 14.9cm in total (7.3cm front and 7.6cm at back)

At 400cm distance the 75mm f/1.8 acceptable DOF is same 14,9cm in total (as the framing is same and same aperture ratio is used).

A human head is by average 24cm from tip of the nose to back of the head (excluding hair) so you would need to have a f/2.8-3.2 for full head if focused to ear. Tip of the nose focus would put 13.7cm DOF from it, so you would cover with f/3.2 just from tip of the nose to front of the ear with 75mm from 400cm distance when using that 70x92cm frame size.
 
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AF is important for me, so...

Many thanks in advance!
Take the Olympus.
I would agree.
It is smaller, nicer and faster when you don't need to worry about a adapter and so on.
It's not faster.
You can go and get the dreamy 85mm f/1.8 to put as 60mm f/1.4 or so, but the problem is that you will need to stop it anyways down like 75mm f/1.8 to around f/2.8-4 to get enough DOF for the portraiture in most cases for tight half-body portrait (50x90cm framing). And you will get better background with 75mm than 60mm.
You can stop it down if you like, but it surely isn't necessary (all with an 85 / 1.8 wide open on APS-C):

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If you are really serious about portraits, get Olympus 150mm f/2. That is a lens that will just blow everything else out, almost on any format (similar would be a FF with 200mm f/3.2).
"Similar on FF" would be a 300 / 4. Perhaps you meant "similar on APS-C", which would be 190 / 2.5 -- let's say 200 / 2.8 since this focal length / relative aperture combo exists. And, yeah, it would work well (200 / 2.8 on APS-C):



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That said, I'm pretty sure that most recommend 85mm -135mm FF equivalent for portraiture, not that I haven't seen some rather nice portraits at any number of focal lengths outside that range (to include the two examples above, if I may be permitted to say).
That is, if you really want blurry out of focus backgrounds and subjects in focus. You will not achieve that with 50-85mm (eq).
Actually, you really can. Well, I really can -- wouldn't want to speak for you. ;-)

In any case, I'd recommend the 75 / 1.8 or 42.5 / 1.2 on mFT. Price no object, I'd go for the 42.5 / 1.2, myself.

If the OP wants max shallow DOF, then they might wish to consider the Sigma 85 / 1.4A + metabones. However, not only will that be a beast, they'll have to pay a grand for the lens and then pay half again as much (I think) for the adapter. Alternatively, the non-Art Sigma 85 / 1.4 is a lot less expensive and should easily be "good enough". That said, I still stand by my original recommendation.
 
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Olympus is a bit smaller, 25% lighter, sharper (especially in the center), noticeably so when shot wide open. Peak sharpness for Olympus is also higher than Canon's.

Olympus is designed for high-pixel density sensors while the Canon is an old design from film era, not living up to the requirements of high-megapixel crop sensor cameras.

Canon is obviously much cheaper. If you already own a Canon camera. If you have to pay for the Canon body to use that lens, even if it's just $200 for a second hand one, it just becomes a waste of money.

In terms of "equivalence" the difference between the two is 1/2 of a stop. Not a big deal I would say. Especially considering what you already pointed out, that focal lengths are not exactly equivalent, meaning you will be shooting at a different distance to achieve the same framing, changing the way background is compressed. That also means slightly different perspective, although I don't think that would be big enough of a difference to make a significant impact on the final image. But "the same" shots from Oly and Canon kit would not really look the same.

Unfortunately, there is no cheap option at similar focal lengths that would have AF.
 
wow! Thank you! Really nice!

That 150mm is totally out of budget/question! :D 2500€ ?! uau! Got to be great!

The 75 is...well, i was thinking that with another body i would not have to be changing lens as often, and the cost of 75 is about the same as 2nd hand canon body+85mm...

Do you know what i mean?!

I know that 85mm should be "worse" than the 75, but...how much?!

Theres is another possibility that i can think of. My brother in law has a Canon that he doesn't use as much. I can buy that 85 and try in his borrowed camera, just to see how i feel about it...(despite that's kind of awkward to do...)

Thing with (metabones) adapters is that they always strugle with something, like AF in this case, AND they are expensive for me/for that reason! Sadly! :D
 
Kind of you to say! Taken with "ancient" and "subpar" equipment -- the Canon 20D + Canon 85 / 1.8. The point being that it wouldn't be the equipment that would hold anyone back from getting the photos they wanted, in the context of the OP.
Wow!

That what i was talking about! Really nice. I don't need better quality than this! This is good enough!! :D

You are right whith that recomendation (42.5 1.2). Should it go cheaper in the next...Years?! :D Right now it's almost twice as the used oly 75.



(Many many thanks for your (everybody) post's!!)
 
AF is important for me, so...

Many thanks in advance!
Take the Olympus.
I would agree.
It is smaller, nicer and faster when you don't need to worry about a adapter and so on.
It's not faster.
Not faster to AF?


Not faster to field as you don't need adapter (unless you have adapter always attached to this only Canon lens and no need to have others)?
You can go and get the dreamy 85mm f/1.8 to put as 60mm f/1.4 or so, but the problem is that you will need to stop it anyways down like 75mm f/1.8 to around f/2.8-4 to get enough DOF for the portraiture in most cases for tight half-body portrait (50x90cm framing). And you will get better background with 75mm than 60mm.
"Similar on FF" would be a 300 / 4. Perhaps you meant "similar on APS-C", which would be 190 / 2.5 -- let's say 200 / 2.8 since this focal length / relative aperture combo exists. And, yeah, it would work well (200 / 2.8 on APS-C):
I said 75mm f/2.8-4 to get enough DOF in the parameters as I wrote and Olympus 4/3 150mm f/2 if really wanting that portrait lens.
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That said, I'm pretty sure that most recommend 85mm -135mm FF equivalent for portraiture, not that I haven't seen some rather nice portraits at any number of focal lengths outside that range (to include the two examples above, if I may be permitted to say).


Same framing for person, different F-stop but totally blurrier background even with deeper DOF when using 200mm f/3.2.

Same framing for person, different F-stop but totally blurrier background even with deeper DOF when using 200mm f/3.2.

The 200mm as well gives far more pleasing perspective to the person, almost as how you recall the person because the distance.

Notice how the 200mm f/3.2 totally blows away the 50mm f/1.4 and 85mm f/1.8 in the blurry background, even when having much deeper DOF to get the person in focus.

Shallow DOF isn't the key that allow to separate the person from terrible background, it is the narrow field of view.

75mm f/1.8 is like 150mm f/3.6 on FF. That is not so far from 200mm f/3.2 on FF.
That is, if you really want blurry out of focus backgrounds and subjects in focus. You will not achieve that with 50-85mm (eq).
Actually, you really can. Well, I really can -- wouldn't want to speak for you. ;-)
85mm f/1.8 doesn't get anywhere near the same blurry background as 200mm f/3.2 does. That is simple physical fact. You have more DOF with the 200mm f/3.2 but far more blurrier background.

And let me to highlight the keyword.... You can't do that same way at all with 85mm f/1.8.
If the OP wants max shallow DOF, then they might wish to consider the Sigma 85 / 1.4A + metabones. However, not only will that be a beast, they'll have to pay a grand for the lens and then pay half again as much (I think) for the adapter. Alternatively, the non-Art Sigma 85 / 1.4 is a lot less expensive and should easily be "good enough". That said, I still stand by my original recommendation.
Like example some your photos has just one eye in focus, while it is a compromise to get the blurry background. Some like that effect, but most like that both eyes are in focus. So you need deeper DOF and that puts real challenge for 85mm f/1.8 on FF to do so compared to 200mm f/3.2 on FF.

So either you want shallow DOF where half of the person is out of focus, or you want a blurry background. They ain't same thing.

The FF real benefit is that when you want wider field of view and still out of focus background, you can stay further and get the person in focus and get the blurry background. While the 4/3" user needs to just use narrower field of view, or then get background more in focus.

If we take a same framing of the person on the FF, with same angled pose:

85mm f/1.8 and then 200mm f/4, people prefer most often that 200mm f/4 to that 85mm f/1.8 photo. Why? Because you get the whole person face in focus. Even if we would stop down for same background blur as 85mm f/1.8 has, most people prefer the in focus face.

The 85mm f/1.8 is like a macro photography with single frame vs same photo with multiple frames stacked for deeper DOF. When you first see the single frame, you are like "WOW" but then when you see the stacked one, you are even more "WOW". Even when both has the same blurry background. But in this case the stacked one would have even blurrier background compared to the single frame one.

So using a Olympus 150mm f/2 (eq. 300mm f/4) vs FF 200mm f/3.2 is the win for the Olympus. That makes the Olympus 150mm f/2 really great portrait lens for 4/3" format.

The next best thing really is the 75mm f/1.8 by its focal length compared to 42.5mm as even if you compare 42.5mm vs 75mm the longer makes better (look the above, 85mm vs 200mm) and when it is so minimal as f/1.2 vs f/1.8 the difference is very subtle. It isn't just the F-stop, it is the field of view as well.

And using a 85mm f/1.8 with adapter making it 60mm f/1.4 (or so) is still fairly questionable vs 75mm f/1.8 as that 2/3 F-stop difference isn't there so much to compensate that 15mm in focal length.



Yet the problem with the 75mm is that when you are not taking portraits (you can't control the subject and the background) then you have more challenges because the distance being so long. Why 45mm f/1.8 is nicer as you can still fit in smaller spaces and don't have so much space to move. Same DOF but different background blur.



The 75mm f/1.8 has less benefits as well in the scenery portraits as you have so narrow field of view that you just can't gasp the background with the person. At that moment then something else like 25mm or 17mm are better as you anyways want background to be in focus somewhat so it is recognizable.



There is reason why Olympus chose 4/3" format, it wasn't because they can make small cameras or low weight. It was because the empirical data about used F-stops on FF cameras in major photography were such that the format offer enough DOF while stopping lenses little bit down. This as well made Olympus to make sure that lenses were sharp wide open or just slightly stopped down, as they weren't needed to be stopped to f/5.6-11 range like on FF cameras.

But the problem is that there is this niche group who mixes shallow DOF to blurry background, and are ready to compromise the subject in focus to get that blurry background. And then the other niche group that follow the philosophy that if you buy a low F-stop lens, you need to use it as much as possible wide open as you paid for that.
 
Hello to all amazing people!

I have this question, because, it's important to me to be cost effective! So i was wondering to get Oly 75 1.8, BUT considering the price, well, you know! (I just want OOF/blurry backround)

(If there was a 60mm f1.4 at a reasonable price, it would be fine! Sigma at 2.8...still not there i think...)

The 85 on APS-C also has the slight advantage of beeing a "little wider", "137.7mm vs 150mm", and, a ""little faster"" (2/3?)...

Beeing the cons, the size!

I would like you to say something that can help me, beeing that the quality from the Canon setup, not just the 85mm but the other cheap and "small" lens they have (like both 24mm/50mm)if i decide to change my system to Canon!! :o

I don't know if the size difference between the Oly+14mm+25mm+75mm / Canon+24mm+50mm+85mm would be so big...

AF is important for me, so...

Many thanks in advance!
As one poster has shown you can create excellent portraits with the Canon 85/1.8 even on a rather old camera (20D). I am sure someone here will show similar results with the 75.

I have the Canon 85 and also the Oly 75. Keep in mind the f stop differences between the formats. APSC has about 2/3 of a stop advantage on m43 so the Canon at f2.2 is the same as the Oly at 1.8 (I may be off a 1/10th of a stop or something so don't anybody have a cow, just using common apertures).

I'm not sure what cameras you have or are planning on getting. That may impact what is best for you.

In general either of these lenses will produce excellent results for portraiture. The Canon is real sharp at f2.8 and a little less so at wider apertures, but as already shown has all the resolution needed for portraits even wide open. The 75 at 1.8 may possibly be a tad sharper than the 85 at f2.2, but if it is we're talking minute differences that really don't matter unless shooting resolution charts.

Either of these lenses on the formats you mentioned are rather long FLs for portraiture. While I have the 75 it is one of my least used lenses. Just not a good FL for me. The 85 I always thought was a tad long for portraits on APSC. Now when I got a FF camera it became much more useful. Also if you stop this lens down to f2.8 it is superb and would be equivalent to using a 42.5 at f1.4 on m43.

Between the 75 & 85 it really comes down to cost and size/weight. Either can deliver the goods. I wouldn't choose a system on just one FL either.

If you go m43 consider either the Oly 45 or Panny 42.5/1.7. Both are great lenses and are light and aoofrdable. I would purchase either of these before the 75. If you decide you want a longer FL I would get the 75 later.

If you go the Canon route, the 85/1.8 on a FF camera is superb. APSC will work fine with it if you are OK with the FL.

Hope this helps.

--
Jonathan
 
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Hello to all amazing people!

I have this question, because, it's important to me to be cost effective! So i was wondering to get Oly 75 1.8, BUT considering the price, well, you know! (I just want OOF/blurry backround)
If you are serious about cost effective then get the Olympus 45 1.8. It is inexpensive, more versatile, has great bokeh, and is sharp wide open.
(If there was a 60mm f1.4 at a reasonable price, it would be fine! Sigma at 2.8...still not there i think...)
Why so narrow? My 60 requires me to back up for portraits but not my 45. 75? 85??

Why so fast? The 45 @ f1.8 already too little DOF. Do you want only one eye in focus and nothing else?
The 85 on APS-C also has the slight advantage of beeing a "little wider", "137.7mm vs 150mm", and, a ""little faster"" (2/3?)...

Beeing the cons, the size!

I would like you to say something that can help me, beeing that the quality from the Canon setup, not just the 85mm but the other cheap and "small" lens they have (like both 24mm/50mm)if i decide to change my system to Canon!! :o
How much stuff do you want to lug around? The 45 1.8 is tiny and will always be in your bag.
 
Hello to all amazing people!

I have this question, because, it's important to me to be cost effective! So i was wondering to get Oly 75 1.8, BUT considering the price, well, you know! (I just want OOF/blurry backround)

(If there was a 60mm f1.4 at a reasonable price, it would be fine! Sigma at 2.8...still not there i think...)

The 85 on APS-C also has the slight advantage of beeing a "little wider", "137.7mm vs 150mm", and, a ""little faster"" (2/3?)...

Beeing the cons, the size!

I would like you to say something that can help me, beeing that the quality from the Canon setup, not just the 85mm but the other cheap and "small" lens they have (like both 24mm/50mm)if i decide to change my system to Canon!! :o

I don't know if the size difference between the Oly+14mm+25mm+75mm / Canon+24mm+50mm+85mm would be so big...

AF is important for me, so...

Many thanks in advance!
Then the Oly is the clear winner here by quite a big margin.

Oly Blur Map:


Canon Blur Map:


Another thought is just get the Oly 45 as it can blur the background decently and can be found for around $250 or less.

The APS-C Canon doesn't give you any IQ advantages, though it will give you a slight DoF advantage. So you have to decide if trading sharpness wide open for DoF control on an APS-C Canon is worth it to you. Also factor in which camera you actually like to shoot with the most.
 
wow! Thank you! Really nice!

That 150mm is totally out of budget/question! :D 2500€ ?! uau! Got to be great!

The 75 is...well, i was thinking that with another body i would not have to be changing lens as often, and the cost of 75 is about the same as 2nd hand canon body+85mm...

Do you know what i mean?!
That is always the compromise, to own and carry two systems instead one.

This is what makes 4/3" format so powerful compared to others that you can combine any lens and body combination of the m4/3 system. You can example get out with a GM1 and DJ X5S and have 12mm f/2 + 25mm f/1.8 and still be swapping lenses on either camera.

If you are going to have a Canon + 85mm dedicated to that, you are going to carry two cameras with you. A EF + m4/3 cameras.
I know that 85mm should be "worse" than the 75, but...how much?!
For portraiture not much at all.

And I mean portraiture the classic most common ones like these:

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Notice the details, notice the "depth of field" and then notice the background.

There are many different things that shallow DOF lovers don't get and are mistaking them to shallow DOF, while they are totally different visual language elements like example:

1) Subject in focus

2) Background structure

3) Color contrast / choice of colors

4) Lighting

5) Subject pose

Those are "Subject halfly out of focus".

Compare them to example these from Dylan Patrick, using common classic method:

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And how that was shot? This is the setup Patric had for that last one:

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If you attend to common portrait lessons, you will find that the shallow DOF isn't the key.

If you attend to art lessons for portraiture, again you will find that blurry model isn't the key.

Patrick searches the background that has the colors and the shapes he likes for the subject. Not just point camera with 85mm f/1.4 and call the day. The magic happens in everything else from lighting to background selection and then using 200mm at f/3.2 or f/4.
Theres is another possibility that i can think of. My brother in law has a Canon that he doesn't use as much. I can buy that 85 and try in his borrowed camera, just to see how i feel about it...(despite that's kind of awkward to do...)
You can always go out for it to try, but you are having a APS-C or FF. If you go that, borrow somewhere a 70-200mm f/2.8 or f/4 and try that 200mm thing. But again you are having two systems that means:
  • Different batteries
  • Possible different cards
  • Different post processing
  • Different mounts
  • Different flash systems
  • Different camera settings and capabilities
  • Different viewfinders
So how much is all that worth really?

Drop a 75mm f/1.8 or 42.5mm f/1.7 even to camera bag with m4/3 system among all other lenses you can have, maybe get a second body even. And still be able to swap the lenses and bodies mixing to get different camera you need without problems.
Thing with (metabones) adapters is that they always strugle with something, like AF in this case, AND they are expensive for me/for that reason! Sadly! :D
And they add a lot of other things everyway. That is why the Olympus 150mm f/2 is just sad thing as it is 4/3 mount instead m4/3 so adapter is needed for that, but at least it can be "clued" to that lens only but still a compromise. So many would love to see many of the 4/3 mount lenses converted to m4/3 mount. Even if they would keep their high prices.

For a nice portraits it is cheaper to go and get few books about posing and then get some books about colors and then get some basics about lighting (not about light setups, but about lighting) and suddenly 45mm f/1.8 Olympus or Pana 42.5mm f/1.7 turns to be pure magic lenses even when compared to FF 85mm f/1.4. Even easier is to control background with a 75mm. And this is the most interesting part, even the Olympus 12-100mm f/4 makes great portrait lens at 100mm f/4.

Is it as easy to just shoot snapshots with half-face out of focus? No.... As you are required to understand the elements that makes the photos nice.

If you find a great background, you can use it to create a far more interesting portrait. Tell the story, link the person to context.

Okay, here is a different style that Joel Grimes uses a lot. He use photo manipulation for portraiture, it is his style. A UWA lens (16mm) to capture backgrounds and then a usually 24-70mm at around 24-35mm to capture the person and then combine in the image editor. Check out his workshops etc.

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But notice. How much does the background in focus disturb the portrait? Not at all.

How much does the WA focal length disturb the person? Not at all.

He uses light, colors and poses to create the look and the feel. Not the shallow DOF (he does that as well btw).

So many comes and say "For portraiture you need 85mm f/1.4 lens in FF" and then starts the arguments about how anything else isn't as good or as great and how something else is equivalent to this and it ain't so good etc.

It is like the holy thing to have a 85mm f/1.4 and nothing else can touch that or it is blasphemy. It is the whole "Shallow DOF is the only way for great portraiture".

How many talks about colors, composition, background, lighting and poses? It is just the shallow DOF, for almost every time. People go to interesting places, locations etc, and then they shoot everything wide open and even use ND filters to do that!

The Shallow DOF worshippers can't get good portraits by other means. Then they mistake the shallow DOF in their photos for a specific backgrounds, lights, poses, colors etc as they can't see that those are the things that makes the photo more interesting and then usually the shallow DOF is there to just ruin the shot more, but everything else is there to save it. And if they would have stopped down, they very likely would have far better results. But they can't see that as they are afraid that their expensive lens is worthless if not shot wide open. That their photography is so dependant from the shallow DOF.

I gave examples for two totally different ways to do portraiture.

A long focal length + smaller aperture.

A ultra wide angle + wide angle + smaller aperture.

Both are in the capabilities of the 4/3" format. Easily. It is possible even fairly cheaply. And it doesn't restrict to single focal length or duplicate camera systems and all that comes with it.

As for making a point, look what this man can do with just a pen...


The key is that he knows how to use the space and what elements he wants in the photo and just does it. He isn't restricted to "I need to use just this to get it".

So I would still say that if you have those two options, get the Olympus. But even more I would recommend is to get training with something else first, as you might very well find out that you don't need either lens at all.

It is free to take few steps to find a better perspective. It is free to ask a subject a side for better background. It is free to use available light differently, or use the existing illumination tools to create the light. It is free to learn how to control the subject and get the posing.

But many thinks that good portraits are "snapshots" from unaware person. Like a street photographs. Well, in street photography making the contact first is totally allowed. Get them to pose for you and do what ever. In journalism it isn't allowed at all. In journalism you can't even hint a person with gestures or even your eyes to do something. You need to be on the location like you don't exist.

And many mistake that to portraiture as it is the only real way.

It is one way, but not the only way.

And that is what makes photography fun that there are all the rules and all the guides etc, but you are so free to break almost all of them as much you want. The big mistake you can do is that you start following some specific style or specific technique or even worse, someone.

When few decades ago there was a group called "group f/64", it is now like there is a same niche group called "shallow DOF".

Nothing wrong in either ones, but it just can get to be like a cult. Where you are rocked down if you don't have a FF, and you don't have a shallow DOF and how "less DOF is always more".

At least we still have a "aperture ring" in our lenses, and some of us ain't afraid to use it.. ;)
 
Kind of you to say! Taken with "ancient" and "subpar" equipment -- the Canon 20D + Canon 85 / 1.8. The point being that it wouldn't be the equipment that would hold anyone back from getting the photos they wanted, in the context of the OP.
Wow!

That what i was talking about! Really nice. I don't need better quality than this! This is good enough!! :D

You are right whith that recomendation (42.5 1.2). Should it go cheaper in the next...Years?! :D Right now it's almost twice as the used oly 75.

(Many many thanks for your (everybody) post's!!)
Occasionally, you'll see the 42.5 / 1.2 go for $900 used on FM.
 
AF is important for me, so...

Many thanks in advance!
Take the Olympus.
I would agree.
It is smaller, nicer and faster when you don't need to worry about a adapter and so on.
It's not faster.
Not faster to AF?


Not faster to field as you don't need adapter (unless you have adapter always attached to this only Canon lens and no need to have others)?
Ah -- didn't realize you were talking about AF speed. Typically when people talk about one lens being "faster" than another, they are referring to the relative aperture unless otherwise specified. In any case, the 85 / 1.8 has wicked fast AF on a DSLR, but I don't know how fast on an mFT body with an adapter.
You can go and get the dreamy 85mm f/1.8 to put as 60mm f/1.4 or so, but the problem is that you will need to stop it anyways down like 75mm f/1.8 to around f/2.8-4 to get enough DOF for the portraiture in most cases for tight half-body portrait (50x90cm framing). And you will get better background with 75mm than 60mm.
"Similar on FF" would be a 300 / 4. Perhaps you meant "similar on APS-C", which would be 190 / 2.5 -- let's say 200 / 2.8 since this focal length / relative aperture combo exists. And, yeah, it would work well (200 / 2.8 on APS-C):
I said 75mm f/2.8-4 to get enough DOF in the parameters as I wrote and Olympus 4/3 150mm f/2 if really wanting that portrait lens.
Yes -- that's what I was rebutting with the photos as examples.
original.jpg


original.jpg


That said, I'm pretty sure that most recommend 85mm -135mm FF equivalent for portraiture, not that I haven't seen some rather nice portraits at any number of focal lengths outside that range (to include the two examples above, if I may be permitted to say).
Same framing for person, different F-stop but totally blurrier background even with deeper DOF when using 200mm f/3.2.

Same framing for person, different F-stop but totally blurrier background even with deeper DOF when using 200mm f/3.2.

The 200mm as well gives far more pleasing perspective to the person, almost as how you recall the person because the distance.
Depends on the scene, obviously.
Notice how the 200mm f/3.2 totally blows away the 50mm f/1.4 and 85mm f/1.8 in the blurry background, even when having much deeper DOF to get the person in focus.
And then there are the examples I posted upthread.
Shallow DOF isn't the key that allow to separate the person from terrible background, it is the narrow field of view.
It's both. The same relative aperture and framing on the same format will result in the same DOF. However, the combo that has the wider aperture diameter will have the greater background blur.

For example, 45mm f/1.8 and 75mm f/1.8 will have the same DOF for the same framing on the same camera, but the 75 / 1.8 will have a greater background blur due to the wider aperture diameter.
75mm f/1.8 is like 150mm f/3.6 on FF. That is not so far from 200mm f/3.2 on FF.
It would be closer to 200mm f/5 on FF since all would have the same aperture diameter.
That is, if you really want blurry out of focus backgrounds and subjects in focus. You will not achieve that with 50-85mm (eq).
Actually, you really can. Well, I really can -- wouldn't want to speak for you. ;-)
85mm f/1.8 doesn't get anywhere near the same blurry background as 200mm f/3.2 does. That is simple physical fact. You have more DOF with the 200mm f/3.2 but far more blurrier background.

And let me to highlight the keyword.... You can't do that same way at all with 85mm f/1.8.
Well, the backgrounds in the examples above are pretty blurred out. If that's not enough blur, then, for sure, go with the wider aperture diameter.
If the OP wants max shallow DOF, then they might wish to consider the Sigma 85 / 1.4A + metabones. However, not only will that be a beast, they'll have to pay a grand for the lens and then pay half again as much (I think) for the adapter. Alternatively, the non-Art Sigma 85 / 1.4 is a lot less expensive and should easily be "good enough". That said, I still stand by my original recommendation.
Like example some your photos has just one eye in focus, while it is a compromise to get the blurry background. Some like that effect, but most like that both eyes are in focus. So you need deeper DOF and that puts real challenge for 85mm f/1.8 on FF to do so compared to 200mm f/3.2 on FF.
If you want both eyes in focus, you put both eyes on the same focal plane, as was done in every single example you gave in your post downthread.
So either you want shallow DOF where half of the person is out of focus, or you want a blurry background. They ain't same thing.
Again, I'll let the above examples speak for themselves on those points.
The FF real benefit is that when you want wider field of view and still out of focus background, you can stay further and get the person in focus and get the blurry background. While the 4/3" user needs to just use narrower field of view, or then get background more in focus.

If we take a same framing of the person on the FF, with same angled pose:

85mm f/1.8 and then 200mm f/4, people prefer most often that 200mm f/4 to that 85mm f/1.8 photo. Why? Because you get the whole person face in focus. Even if we would stop down for same background blur as 85mm f/1.8 has, most people prefer the in focus face.

The 85mm f/1.8 is like a macro photography with single frame vs same photo with multiple frames stacked for deeper DOF. When you first see the single frame, you are like "WOW" but then when you see the stacked one, you are even more "WOW". Even when both has the same blurry background. But in this case the stacked one would have even blurrier background compared to the single frame one.

So using a Olympus 150mm f/2 (eq. 300mm f/4) vs FF 200mm f/3.2 is the win for the Olympus. That makes the Olympus 150mm f/2 really great portrait lens for 4/3" format.

The next best thing really is the 75mm f/1.8 by its focal length compared to 42.5mm as even if you compare 42.5mm vs 75mm the longer makes better (look the above, 85mm vs 200mm) and when it is so minimal as f/1.2 vs f/1.8 the difference is very subtle. It isn't just the F-stop, it is the field of view as well.

And using a 85mm f/1.8 with adapter making it 60mm f/1.4 (or so) is still fairly questionable vs 75mm f/1.8 as that 2/3 F-stop difference isn't there so much to compensate that 15mm in focal length.

Yet the problem with the 75mm is that when you are not taking portraits (you can't control the subject and the background) then you have more challenges because the distance being so long. Why 45mm f/1.8 is nicer as you can still fit in smaller spaces and don't have so much space to move. Same DOF but different background blur.

The 75mm f/1.8 has less benefits as well in the scenery portraits as you have so narrow field of view that you just can't gasp the background with the person. At that moment then something else like 25mm or 17mm are better as you anyways want background to be in focus somewhat so it is recognizable.

There is reason why Olympus chose 4/3" format, it wasn't because they can make small cameras or low weight. It was because the empirical data about used F-stops on FF cameras in major photography were such that the format offer enough DOF while stopping lenses little bit down. This as well made Olympus to make sure that lenses were sharp wide open or just slightly stopped down, as they weren't needed to be stopped to f/5.6-11 range like on FF cameras.

But the problem is that there is this niche group who mixes shallow DOF to blurry background, and are ready to compromise the subject in focus to get that blurry background. And then the other niche group that follow the philosophy that if you buy a low F-stop lens, you need to use it as much as possible wide open as you paid for that.
The bottom line is that I presented some examples. If they don't work for you (or, more specifically, the OP), then, for sure, one may wish to consider other options.
 
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If you want both eyes in focus, you put both eyes on the same focal plane, as was done in every single example you gave in your post downthread.
Only one is so.

Check the poses if you don't believe.

He is using often f/3.2....

to get about a 10-15cm DOF from the nose toward ears.

Far enough to have both eyes in focus from a angle.

so yes... "in same focus plane" in a hence. But not toward camera at same distance at all.
 

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