Voigtlander 10mm or 12mm?

Started Apr 4, 2017 | Discussions thread
blue_skies Forum Pro • Posts: 12,031
Re: Voigtlander 10mm or 12mm?

Tubbycub wrote:

Has anyone here had much experience with both of these lenses?

Voigtlander 10mm or 12mm

I'm looking at purchasing a Voigtlander (My first manual lens).

For architecture and nature shots.

Look forward to hearing some feedback. I've read the 10mm can be quite challenging.


To get some ideas: https://www.flickr.com/photos/111458433@N02/albums/72157668930670325

This has images with and without perspective (keystone) correction.

The 10mm allows for a lot of keystone correction, correction has the effect of narrowing the FOV, while removing the convergence (buildings falling backwards) of parallel lines.

It lets you 'tilt' the image in post-edit, at the cost of lowering the resolution.

It is also a lens to be more creative it.

Traditionally, these FLs were 'fisheye', and you had to de-fish them for rectalinear projections. These rectalinear lenses don't need this, and make it easier to work with them, however, edge distortion (stretching) increases as the FL decreases. E.g. you cannot have people near the edge of the frame, as it will appear weird.

There was a thread on the FMforum, repeated in other reviews, alleging that the wider CV lens is less sharp. This has been debunked. The 10mm is as sharp as the 12mm, but the image center is more compressed (smaller) and the edge stretch effects are more pronounced, causing more magnification in comparisons, hence showing more softness.

For nature shots, and practical applications, the CV15 is plenty wide. The CV12 is dramatically wider, while the CV10 is in a league of its own. At these focal length, every mm has a dramatic difference in FOV. FOV's of the CV15, CV12, and CV10 are 130, 120, and 110 degrees respectively, and these differences are very noticeable.

Horizon positioning and leveling becomes progressively more important as the FL reduces. You'll notice that in a lot of images the horizon is in the center, which does not need keystone correction. You can crop the lower half in such images, if the foreground is uninteresting. Usually, the foreground becomes part of the composition, if not the subject itself.

You also have CA and other issues to contend with in post-edit. The wider the angle, the more pronounced.

Since your gear already lists a B18, which has a rather 'practical' WA FOV, I'd recommend going for the CV10. The B18 already shows plenty of keystone distortion and you should already be aware of how to frame with a UWA.

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