Relooking at Realist Slides on new 60" 3D TV

5 years ago, I scanned in all my old Realist slides--over 1000--and corrected each one individually and auto corrected them in Stereomaker and saved as MPO files. I watched them on my 3D projector through my bluray using an USB memory stick, and they just didn't have that punch like seeing them in a handheld viewer. Well, I got a new 60" LG 4K passive 3D TV and wow, It's a whole new world of 3D. Problem still was that since the slides didn't fill the 16:9 frame and many were dark except for the forefront subject, they still did not satisfy. So I edited them again on my PC using Paintshop pro and tested some using the backlighting/clarifier filter and wow, it brought out all the objects in the picture hidden by too much contrast and the poor flash used back in the day (all slides were from 60s through mid 90s). I then realized that since the Realist was somewhat wide angle (35mm equivalent) that if I cropped them, they would look more normal and zoomed in. So I added backlighting/clarity, some additional sharpness and color correction, and cropped the images down as much as possible. This made the 3D come alive in my living room. I felt like I was looking at a whole new set of slides. Some subject matter could not be cropped, but the new lighting effect help a lot. The ones that I could make 16:9 to fit the TV are outstanding and many ended in different formats, but still somewhat zoomed in.  If you have objects you want include and can't change from the original format, then keep that slide in that format, and then show a zoomed in cropped to 16:9 version as well--especially of people. Your audience will go "wow," and think they are part of the scene. Zooming in by cropping also changes the original Realist wide-angle elongated image effect to a more normal satisfying view. And the LG 60UH8500 does automatic 3D parallax correction as well, to make them look even more realistic.

Guys, if you have old Realist slides and a new 4K 3D TV, you'll want to scan them into the PC and do what I did. I used an EpsonV700, but there are other scanners just as good for cheap these days. You will have to create your own cardboard mask to scan the stereo slides at the right depth from the glass two at a time. Then capture each L and R slide in separate Tiff files typically (highest resolution possible). Then make your corrections (clean up dust, backlighting, color and crop) and save as Jpegs. Then use Stereomaker to create an MPO. You need to make sure that each L/R file gets the same effects. It's easy. Have both eyes on your editing screen. Make a change to one, and use the same filter, select "last used" filter setting and apply to the other eye. Same with cropping. Don't worry too much about being exact as Stereomaker will auto align the eyes back to perfect again.  You will thank me.