ON1 Photo Raw vs Lightroom vs Capture 1 PRO 10 - conversion quality

AdCr

Member
Messages
47
Solutions
1
Reaction score
54
I was interested in how do these programs cope with difficult scenes, not some perfectly exposed daylight portrait where anything will do but stuff that's heavily over/under exposed or noisy or with strong backlight etc.

So - how do they handle overexposed photo ? This is scene severely overexposed with flash. How much details can we recover ? All that I used was Exposure and Highlights sliders. Everything else is "as shot" including white balance.



cab685ee79b44712845b7aa7a08c5f23.jpg


Results:

I think LR wins, followed by C1 and ON1 being laughable. Details in hair of a girl and skin texture of an adult are significantly better in LR conversion. ON1 is a joke - hand is completely destroyed, a lot less details in girl's face, weird green colour shift. The reason why the white point is a bit darker on ON1 photo is that I tried to recover more details while seeing how poorly it's behaving.
 
I was interested in how do these programs cope with difficult scenes, not some perfectly exposed daylight portrait where anything will do but stuff that's heavily over/under exposed or noisy or with strong backlight etc.

So - how do they handle overexposed photo ? This is scene severely overexposed with flash. How much details can we recover ? All that I used was Exposure and Highlights sliders. Everything else is "as shot" including white balance.

cab685ee79b44712845b7aa7a08c5f23.jpg


Results:

I think LR wins, followed by C1 and ON1 being laughable. Details in hair of a girl and skin texture of an adult are significantly better in LR conversion. ON1 is a joke - hand is completely destroyed, a lot less details in girl's face, weird green colour shift. The reason why the white point is a bit darker on ON1 photo is that I tried to recover more details while seeing how poorly it's behaving.
I have issue problem with some contrast scene when open up on1 raw, the highlight is blownout when open up raw file.
 
So to follow it with a extreme shadow test, that is a photo (100% crop) of a black dog underexposed by about 4 stops. I used Exposure, Shadows and Noise Reduction sliders in all 3 programs. Rest is untouched. That's how the photo looks like without touching it at all:



7b733e090415401b950affbf774516a6.jpg


And what I could achieve with RAW converters:



9192993de62144c3b64a245f3138abe9.jpg


So to get it out of the way - ON1 is laughing stock again.

As to C1 vs LR it's kind of hard for me to decide. LR did weird colour shift this time, black fur goes into magenta. C1 colours look far better. Noise reduction is a tough one - I don't like the fact that with LR I couldn't get rid of big white pixels on the dog without going crazy on luminance which makes it big smudgy blob. On the other hand if you look at C1 noise reduction around the dog it looks bad. So, I think I have to give C1 a slight edge against LR this time - mainly because it handled colours much better.
 
Little side note, ON1 in 100% zoom will show you something completely different that what you will get after exporting to JPG which I find very disappointing because it means you can't rely on a preview. Sad...



bc84e7e920d64398896509bd3a40adc2.jpg
 
This when I first open image on default on Onone Raw and compare to same as Adobe Photoshop ACR when open it up on default.

I had to do clumsy screenshot anyway to screenshot Onone RAW first saved in PNG, then open this up in photoshop then open a RAW file in ACR and add to the right side to compare to the Onone RAW on the left. I did screenshot again and saved in PNG, then saved as JPG at 2048 px across for web at sRGB. You will clearly see how bad highlight blownout is when first open up with no editing at all in Onone RAW, its the colour management issue problem.

 

Attachments

  • 3565546.jpg
    3565546.jpg
    492 KB · Views: 0
Thank you for this. I’m glad I waited until the official release with 30 day trial. I will not be buying this hunk of junk program. Hopefully you will dissuade others from doing the same.
 
So to follow it with a extreme shadow test, that is a photo (100% crop) of a black dog underexposed by about 4 stops. I used Exposure, Shadows and Noise Reduction sliders in all 3 programs. Rest is untouched. That's how the photo looks like without touching it at all:

7b733e090415401b950affbf774516a6.jpg


And what I could achieve with RAW converters:

9192993de62144c3b64a245f3138abe9.jpg


So to get it out of the way - ON1 is laughing stock again.

As to C1 vs LR it's kind of hard for me to decide. LR did weird colour shift this time, black fur goes into magenta. C1 colours look far better. Noise reduction is a tough one - I don't like the fact that with LR I couldn't get rid of big white pixels on the dog without going crazy on luminance which makes it big smudgy blob. On the other hand if you look at C1 noise reduction around the dog it looks bad. So, I think I have to give C1 a slight edge against LR this time - mainly because it handled colours much better.
I agreed C1 done great job with the colour it seems for shadow recovery by not bringing up too much magenta/green. I have C1 free for Sony and this works really well for Sony image vs LR.
 
I agreed C1 done great job with the colour it seems for shadow recovery by not bringing up too much magenta/green. I have C1 free for Sony and this works really well for Sony image vs LR.
It's funny how C1 did so well on a black fur and failed by bringing up green and magenta on the edges of the snout and in lower right corner on the white wall :) LR did the exact opposite - snout and wall perfect and fur is a magenta mess.
 
Thank you for the effort you've put into these comparisons. Maybe raw conversion isn't as easy as On1 thought?

I'm one of the users who pre-ordered at the $79 price. Kind of wish I had waited...
 
I believe everything depends on your acquaintance with program.

This is ON1 RAW sample. (yes, I have this program crashed 3 times on me)



473ca233925140c1b906aa8a29dbeb92.jpg




--
Camera in bag tends to stay in bag...
 
I was interested in how do these programs cope with difficult scenes, not some perfectly exposed daylight portrait where anything will do but stuff that's heavily over/under exposed or noisy or with strong backlight etc.

So - how do they handle overexposed photo ? This is scene severely overexposed with flash. How much details can we recover ? All that I used was Exposure and Highlights sliders. Everything else is "as shot" including white balance.

cab685ee79b44712845b7aa7a08c5f23.jpg


Results:

I think LR wins, followed by C1 and ON1 being laughable. Details in hair of a girl and skin texture of an adult are significantly better in LR conversion. ON1 is a joke - hand is completely destroyed, a lot less details in girl's face, weird green colour shift. The reason why the white point is a bit darker on ON1 photo is that I tried to recover more details while seeing how poorly it's behaving.
LR: left photo

C1: middle photo

ON1: right photo

?????
 
I was interested in how do these programs cope with difficult scenes, not some perfectly exposed daylight portrait where anything will do but stuff that's heavily over/under exposed or noisy or with strong backlight etc.

So - how do they handle overexposed photo ? This is scene severely overexposed with flash. How much details can we recover ? All that I used was Exposure and Highlights sliders. Everything else is "as shot" including white balance.

cab685ee79b44712845b7aa7a08c5f23.jpg


Results:

I think LR wins, followed by C1 and ON1 being laughable. Details in hair of a girl and skin texture of an adult are significantly better in LR conversion. ON1 is a joke - hand is completely destroyed, a lot less details in girl's face, weird green colour shift. The reason why the white point is a bit darker on ON1 photo is that I tried to recover more details while seeing how poorly it's behaving.
LR: left photo

C1: middle photo

ON1: right photo

?????
All 3 photos are clearly marked:

ON1 (left) LR (middle) C1 (right)

IMHO, the only way to save this pathetic photo is to make it B/W, regardless of converter.

--
Camera in bag tends to stay in bag...
 
I believe everything depends on your acquaintance with program.
Please talk specifics what should I do in ON1 to recover those highlights in my first example or improve shadows in second so it roughly matches LR or C1. I will be happy to try it and post results.

I do not claim that ON1 can't deal with normal, easy to process photographs but I would like to use it to gain advantage from that RAW file like increased dynamic range. So I want to boost those shadows or have some more details in the clouds - that's one of the reasons why I'm shooting RAW, otherwise I wouldn't bother and shoot JPG.
IMHO, the only way to save this pathetic photo is to make it B/W, regardless of converter.
This is photo taken during setting up the flash, test photo like "back of the hand" to see what's going on - it doesn't have to be saved.

The reason it's used is because there are very clear overexposed areas where is 0 data and it will not be recovered even by LR 2025 or C1 PRO 20. So in between what's visible and what's definitely destroyed is a "grey area" that shows us capabilities of each program to recover as much as it can.

If I used photo like you have used, I would test nothing. Yep, properly exposed yellow flower that will look fine in every single RAW converter under the sun. You can take this photo and process it with anything as a proof of "yeah program is fine, maybe others lack my skill" :)
 
I believe everything depends on your acquaintance with program.
Please talk specifics what should I do in ON1 to recover those highlights in my first example or improve shadows in second so it roughly matches LR or C1. I will be happy to try it and post results.

I do not claim that ON1 can't deal with normal, easy to process photographs but I would like to use it to gain advantage from that RAW file like increased dynamic range. So I want to boost those shadows or have some more details in the clouds - that's one of the reasons why I'm shooting RAW, otherwise I wouldn't bother and shoot JPG.
IMHO, the only way to save this pathetic photo is to make it B/W, regardless of converter.
This is photo taken during setting up the flash, test photo like "back of the hand" to see what's going on - it doesn't have to be saved.

The reason it's used is because there are very clear overexposed areas where is 0 data and it will not be recovered even by LR 2025 or C1 PRO 20. So in between what's visible and what's definitely destroyed is a "grey area" that shows us capabilities of each program to recover as much as it can.

If I used photo like you have used, I would test nothing. Yep, properly exposed yellow flower that will look fine in every single RAW converter under the sun. You can take this photo and process it with anything as a proof of "yeah program is fine, maybe others lack my skill" :)
I do not talk about specifics, I do not have experience with such an overly exposed photos - I guess +5 at least.

ON1 has special filters to recover highlights and reveal shadows - just inside RAW developer, but I'm not sure they can handle situation (btw, other 2 programs do not do better).

As I already mentioned, it situations like that, I'd end up with B/W photo - the best solution for all unfortunate shots.
 
I'm not quite clear on the point of this post. It appears the WB has significant problems (not clear if a mostly yellow or greenish yellow). So is this to be a successful example or an unsuccessful example of RAW conversion?
 
I'm not quite clear on the point of this post. It appears the WB has significant problems (not clear if a mostly yellow or greenish yellow). So is this to be a successful example or an unsuccessful example of RAW conversion?
 
Is this the sort of image that you'd want your RAW converter to "save"? It's a bit like comparing automobiles on a test track at 200 mph -- might be fun, but it would hardly apply to your everyday usage.

If your image were less extreme (and more like the images you would choose to edit) would any of the converters you cite act differently?

I think that the real test is to start with an image more representative of your exposure style. Then perform the best edit you can for each of the editors you cite. Finally compare the end results to see which product you prefer.
 
All three converters are working with the same information from the raw file. It's the algorithms that make the difference. When it comes to highlights, the ON1 version is probably the correct one. Lightroom and C1 are painting in the areas by guessing the information from other color channels and/or from surrounding areas that aren't blown; Photo Ninja takes that technique to the extreme. If you like the results and they save you some work, great! Subjectively, you can say the results are correct, but they cannot be considered accurate because they are made up. This is just a different ideology and some of the best, accurate raw converters like RPP also follow it. But from a consumer's point of view, since ON1 is not meant to be niche and is marketed as amateur-friendly, it does seem lazy and half-baked to not be competent in something that even even free software does okay.

You can see that C1 has more thought behind it than other converters. It clearly either increases noise reduction in shadow data or uses adaptive changes to the black point for cameras that exhibit prevalent chroma casts when shadows are lifted or ISO is increased. ON1 and Lightroom seem less catered to a camera's individual characteristics (sensor behavior).
 
OK, this is a BW version. To say you truth, your posted photo is too small to see difference in detail.



e61c05425b65401790d05ad8d53df904.jpg




--
Camera in bag tends to stay in bag...
 

Keyboard shortcuts

Back
Top