X-pro 2 focus woes Locked

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Homo erectus
Homo erectus Regular Member • Posts: 242
Re: X-pro 2 focus woes

I'm going to assume that you are, in good faith, trying to understand how the AF system in the X-Pro2 works rather than being a troll. It doesn't matter how the AF system on any other camera that you've used worked. If you want to reliably get in focus shots from the Fuji camera you have to understand how the Fuji AF system works. It will take some trial and error and retraining on your part.

According to the Fuji website that explains their AF system (http://www.fujifilm-x.com/af/en/index.html)

AF-S + single point is best for static subjects. http://www.fujifilm-x.com/af/en/af_mode/af-s_singlepoint.html

AF-S + zone is best for a single slowly moving subject like slowly walking person. http://www.fujifilm-x.com/af/en/af_mode/af-s_zone.html

AF-S + wide tracking is for when you want the camera to pick a subject for you. Something will be in focus, probably whatever is moving in the right way to grab the cameras attention of whatever has the highest contrast. http://www.fujifilm-x.com/af/en/af_mode/af-s_wide-tracking.html

AF-C + Single point is best for objects that are moving toward the camera in a more or less straight line. Like a bird flying directly at you from across a pond. http://www.fujifilm-x.com/af/en/af_mode/af-c_singlepoint.html

AF-C + Zone is best for tracking a moving subject that isn't moving directly toward the camera in a straight line. Like a bird flying around in the sky or two dogs running around playing.

AF-C + Wide Tracking is basically fully auto-magical AF where the camera does everything on its own and only the Fuji engineers that wrote the AF algorithms really understand why the camera focuses on whatever it focuses on and maybe they don't even understand.

So, using this explanation from Fuji of how the Fuji AF system works. We can determine that for nearly every situation where you are shooting people in a slow moving situation you'll get the best results from either AF-S + Single Point or AF-S + Zone. Speaking from my experience shooting events with my Fuji cameras this is indeed the case.

One caveat is that I've found that the af point (or box if in zone or wide modes) needs to be about the same size as your subject to really get reliable focus. Too small and there might not be enough detail or contrast for the AF to do its job. Too big and there might be something inside the AF box that is more attractive to the AF algorithm than what you want it to focus on. The AF system likes to grab on to bright points in the background if given a chance.

I set my camera up for a minimum shutter speed of 1/160th when I shoot an event with the 90mm and I shoot with it wide open because there's no such thing as an event location with good light. In focus shots are no problem at all. In fact I take fewer shots than I used to with my old D750 setup because I trust the AF on the Fuji more now that I've grasped how it works and it's quirks.

As far as using the OVF goes, you can set the ERF up to be on constantly and show you a 100% zoom of what is under your focus point so you can immediately see if what you want to be in focus is actually focused. I highly recommend that you read the two blog posts about how the OVF works on this website: http://vopoku.com/fujifilm-ovf-focusing/ part two is linked at the bottom of that page. I found them to be invaluable in understanding how to use the OVF.

After reading those sites you'll need to go out and experiment, I mean shoot, to get a feel for when to use these different settings and how they work.

Good luck and have fun!

 Homo erectus's gear list:Homo erectus's gear list
Fujifilm X-Pro2 Fujifilm X-E2S Fujifilm XF 60mm F2.4 R Macro Fujifilm XF 27mm F2.8 Fujifilm XF 23mm F1.4 R +2 more
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