Evening walk - K-1 with Samyang 14/2.8

philzucker

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Nothing better to take an evening walk on a Friday with your K-1 and the Samyang 14mm ... This combination gives you marvelous new perspectives on very mundane things! :-)

Like these:

Inside/outside (f4.0):

walk-12.jpg


Warning light (f4.0):

walk-13.jpg


Stone face (f2.8):

walk-14.jpg


Church (f4.0):

walk-15.jpg


Playground (f8.0):

walk-16.jpg


Enjoy!

Phil

--
GMT +1
Gallery: http://photosan.smugmug.com
 
Nice set!

I've long been interested in the Samyang 14mm lens. I already have the 35mm F1.4 and also want the 24mm too, primarily for landscape shots. I may get the 24mm and see if I want / need to go wider, but the 14mm looks like a fun lens too. :)

Ian
 
Some great perspectives there Phil.
 
Nice church. Almost HDR.
 
Hi:

I am interested in getting the 14 or the 16 Samyang/Rokinon for my K1 (and perhaps for my K3). May I ask what made you choose the 14? I assume you do not have both! :)

The widest I have is the Sigma 24 f1.8 (a very nice and underrated lens, but I may have an excellent copy). I had one which I sold, bought another a year later and it was decentered. Sigma replaced the lens and sent me a very nice copy. I would like something wider, though, and am fine with manual focus.

I likely would use the lens for some landscape work, but also try to incorporate some portrait/group work where having lots of background is part of the image. That is why I thought perhaps of going with the 16. Perhaps a bit less distortion?

I have the 8 Rokinon fisheye and love it, but it is a specialty lens (and for a crop sensor). More for fun than regular use.

Thank you in advance!
 
Interesting shots, nicely processed. I'm enjoying this combo myself, particularly the relatively close focus stuff.
 
I have a K-1 and recently bought the Samyang 14. After about 300 shots with it I love it, and I'm most impressed with its sharpness and clarity, but would like to ask you how you go about getting good focus?

Mostly I use the central focusing point and turn the barrel until the little square turns darker, but this sometimes misses. Live View with peaking is pretty useless as virtually everything in the shot peaks! I've tried hyperfocal but that isn't always awfully reliable. The other option is to ignore the central focusing spot and just look at the whole scene in the viewfinder. None of these methods are optimal, I think. But then, I've only clicked 300 times with it.

So, how do you get there?

S.
 
Nice set!
Thanks, Ian!
I've long been interested in the Samyang 14mm lens. I already have the 35mm F1.4 and also want the 24mm too, primarily for landscape shots. I may get the 24mm and see if I want / need to go wider, but the 14mm looks like a fun lens too. :)
Indeed it is. I have to get used to the ultra wide perspective, but I'm slowly beginning to work out what to do with it.

How does your 35mm/1.4 perform wide open, BTW? Any samples or a link at hand? I'm more than happy with my FA35/2.0, but it's always good to know! :-)

Phil
 
Nice church. Almost HDR.
Thanks, Roland. Well, sort of is HDR. The Sony sensors in the K-1 and also my K5-II allow for that easily IMO. I exposed for the highlights, pushed shadows in LR, used "Detail Extraction" from Nik's Color Efex - and was done. :)

Phil
 
Hi:

I am interested in getting the 14 or the 16 Samyang/Rokinon for my K1 (and perhaps for my K3). May I ask what made you choose the 14? I assume you do not have both! :)
Indeed I don't! Since the 16mm/f2.0 from Samyang is APS-C only, I'd not recommend to buy it for the K-1. You can easily crop the output from the 14mm though to get the 16mm perspective, if you want ...
I likely would use the lens for some landscape work, but also try to incorporate some portrait/group work where having lots of background is part of the image. That is why I thought perhaps of going with the 16. Perhaps a bit less distortion?
Well, lens distortion is well controlled with the recently added LR profile for the 14mm, but perspective distortion is unavoidable with a UWA lens like this. I wouldn't do group shots with it ... With lot's of background on all sides it might be okay, and you can correct for the the perspective distortion on the sides with some tools of course. And again remember that on the K-1 you have tons of pixel to crop away - and you'll still get a nice large image!

Phil
 
Interesting shots, nicely processed.
Thanks very much, Doug.
I'm enjoying this combo myself, particularly the relatively close focus stuff.
Yes, that's fun. Compared to the DA10-17 though I'm not getting as close as I would like to get. I've sort of grown accustomed to the 14 cm minimum focusing distance of the DA10-17 (which at 17mm can be used perfectly on the K-1) and am still irritated if I hit the minimum distance with 28 cm on the Samyang - at 14mm that's quite a distance especially for smaller objects. But I'll get used to it, I think!

Phil
 
I have a K-1 and recently bought the Samyang 14. After about 300 shots with it I love it, and I'm most impressed with its sharpness and clarity,
Second that ...
but would like to ask you how you go about getting good focus?

Mostly I use the central focusing point
... anyway the only one usable for MF lenses, if I'm not mistaken ...
and turn the barrel until the little square turns darker, but this sometimes misses. Live View with peaking is pretty useless as virtually everything in the shot peaks! I've tried hyperfocal but that isn't always awfully reliable. The other option is to ignore the central focusing spot and just look at the whole scene in the viewfinder. None of these methods are optimal, I think. But then, I've only clicked 300 times with it.

So, how do you get there?
Well, haven't had the lens this long either, but here's what I do so far: I get pretty good results using 2m as hyperfocal distance at f8 or f9; if I stop down to f4 I find the focusing indicator of the K-1 pretty reliable; for f2.8 and very close focusing distances I might throw in an extra shot for security. And as far as LV with peaking is concerned I find it very usable if magnified - up to 16x. That allows for very precise selection of the focus region IMO.

Phil
 
I haven't yet taken any shots using the 35mm F1.4 wide open as I mainly use it for landscape shots. I'll have to do some trips out later in the day or wide open / high shutter speed to look at the results. If I do so I'll revisit this post and put in an example or two! :)

Ian
 
Thank you for sharing these nice shots!

...Somehow, this photo is my favorite of these:
Nothing better to take an evening walk on a Friday with your K-1 and the Samyang 14mm ... This combination gives you marvelous new perspectives on very mundane things! :-)

Like these:

Stone face (f2.8):

walk-14.jpg


Church (f4.0):

Phil
cheers,



Ari



--
- Ari Aikomus -
'Why should I feel lonely ? is not our planet in the Milky way?'
 
Hi:

I did not catch that the 16 was APS-C! I need to read a little more closely! Oh well. Thank you for pointing that out.

I occasionally have used a wide angle lens (or the wide end of a zoom) for portraits or at least with large groups of people and do my best to keep them in the middle area of the field of view. I also shoot at large MMA events and having a wide angle lens for "taking in the whole event" can be nice so long as I crop the edges a bit.

The 14 seems a very economical lens and I may give it a try.

Thank you for the reply.
 
Impressive Phil! I am still looking for a UWA (no rush, enjoying the hunt) but at the moment, the widest thing I have used on my K-1 is my Tamron 28-75mm...

I do own a m42 Takumar 17mm fisheye, but have yet to try it. I wasn't really looking for a fish effect...

Also own a Spiratone 18mm f3.5 on a Tmount, currently K on there and tried it, but oh my, the flare...it is actually pretty sharp, but it doesn't do strong light very well.

So I am a little skiddish about older lenses after seeing that result. I am thinking it will need to be fairly modern, like your Samyang, to have the kind of contrast or pop that I want from a lens.

Thanks for sharing,
 

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