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adding external filters, lens to C-750 UZ

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CR Murthy

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Can I add external attachments, filters to the Olympus C-750 UZ ? I have not bought it but would like to know the options.

Thank you.

CR
 
I have a brushed chrome finish filter tube for the C-7x0 series, it fits on the C-700, 730 and 750. It looks a lot better than the CLA-4, but there are some differences.

CLA-4 has a 55mm thread, the one I use is a 52mm thread

http://www.2filters.com/prices/products/digitubes.html

Digital Camera Mounting Tubes
for filters and conversion lenses

go down the list to "OLYMPUS DIGITAL 700-720-730"

45.6mm-52mm brushed chrome finish is the one I have, it takes a 52 mm filter. I never take it off the camera.
CR Murthy said:
Can I add external attachments, filters to the Olympus C-750 UZ ? I
have not bought it but would like to know the options.

Thank you.

CR
Click to expand...
--
http://www.pbase.com/galleries/donald_spencer (pbase supporter)
 
Thanks. I just ordered my camera and am trying to read up. Appreciate your help.

CR
Donald Spencer said:
CLA-4 has a 55mm thread, the one I use is a 52mm thread

http://www.2filters.com/prices/products/digitubes.html

Digital Camera Mounting Tubes
for filters and conversion lenses

go down the list to "OLYMPUS DIGITAL 700-720-730"

45.6mm-52mm brushed chrome finish is the one I have, it takes a 52
mm filter. I never take it off the camera.
CR Murthy said:
Can I add external attachments, filters to the Olympus C-750 UZ ? I
have not bought it but would like to know the options.

Thank you.

CR
Click to expand...
--
http://www.pbase.com/galleries/donald_spencer (pbase supporter)
Click to expand...
 
CR Murthy said:
Thank you for your reply. Once I add the adapter what are some of
the add ons ? Appreciate your help.
Click to expand...
Well just about any filter of the correct size (52mm or 55mm depending on which adapter you get). In terms of filters, the two filters that a lot of people go for are the UV filter and the Polarizing filter.

The UV filter is used as a lens protection (digital cameras aren't that sensitive to UV rays like film is, so you really don't need the UV blocking). There is one school of thought that says always have a UV filter on the camera if you don't have some other filter or add-on lens on it to protect the lens, while the other school says you should take better care of your camera, and that adding any extra glass between you and the subject can cause image degradation. As a side note, I'm on my second UV filter, having scratched the first one somewhere along the line, better a $15 filter than a $500 camera. If you do go the UV route, you probably want to get a good multi-coated filter which lessons the problem of light flare when you are shooting towards the sun.

The polarizing filter acts like polarizing sunglasses do, in that it reduces non-metalic reflections. You rotate the filter until you get the best effect (this is where cameras without EVF or TTL viewfinders suck, since you need to use the LCD and that gets washed out in the sunlight). A secondary benefit to a polarizer is it tends to make the sky bluer (IIRC this is due to eliminating reflections off of water droplets in the air), and it can reduce the contrast of the midday sun. Note, a polarizer will reduce the amount of light entering the camera, which can help if you shoot in conditions that are so bright, your camera doesn't have a small enough aperture or fast enough shutter speed to be able to take the picture. There are two types of polarizers, linear or circular. I believe your camera can use either (but only the circular polarizers come in multi-coated varieties if you want to pay for a premium filter). A lot of places say if you have an auto-focus camera you need a circulat polarizer, but the focusing mechanism in most digitial cameras (other than DSLRs and maybe the new Minolta A1/Z1) works well with linear polarizers (which are cheaper).

The third filter that people think about is the neutral density filter which blocks light like a polarizer but don't eliminate the reflections. You can get ND filters in a variety of strengths, depending on how much light you want to block. One use of this is for photographing flowing water (on a tripod) to allow for much slower shutter speeds during the day. You can also get ND filters that are 1/2 ND and 1/2 clear, which allows you to put the ND part over the sky and block out light so you can photograph the landscape in better details without the sky blowing the highlights.

Many of the other filters for film use (such as warming and cooling filters to change the light temperture) often times aren't needed with digital cameras, particularly if your camera has a one-touch white balance feature which I believe the C-750UZ does have (my camera doesn't have it, and I often times wished for it).

You can also get add-on lenses to increase your telephoto or wide angle range, or macro lenses that let you photograph smaller things, but I will let somebody else tell you the ins and outs of those. It is the general wisdom that most telephoto lenses 2x or greater don't work too well on high zoom cameras. The Olympus TCON-17 (1.7x magnification) is generally regarded as one of the better lenses, as is the wide angle lens WCON-07 (0.7x magnification) and macro lens (MCON something or another). Expect to pay ~ $100-150 for each of these.
 
CR Murty,

In my opinion, this (from Michael) is one of the best summary on what filters and add-on lens you can use with your digital camera.

And you didn't even ask about what external flash units can be used with your camera, for which Michael can certainly offer a lot more advise :-)

James
Michael Meissner said:
CR Murthy said:
Thank you for your reply. Once I add the adapter what are some of
the add ons ? Appreciate your help.
Click to expand...
Well just about any filter of the correct size (52mm or 55mm
depending on which adapter you get). In terms of filters, the two
filters that a lot of people go for are the UV filter and the
Polarizing filter.

The UV filter is used as a lens protection (digital cameras aren't
that sensitive to UV rays like film is, so you really don't need
the UV blocking). There is one school of thought that says always
have a UV filter on the camera if you don't have some other filter
or add-on lens on it to protect the lens, while the other school
says you should take better care of your camera, and that adding
any extra glass between you and the subject can cause image
degradation. As a side note, I'm on my second UV filter, having
scratched the first one somewhere along the line, better a $15
filter than a $500 camera. If you do go the UV route, you probably
want to get a good multi-coated filter which lessons the problem of
light flare when you are shooting towards the sun.

The polarizing filter acts like polarizing sunglasses do, in that
it reduces non-metalic reflections. You rotate the filter until
you get the best effect (this is where cameras without EVF or TTL
viewfinders suck, since you need to use the LCD and that gets
washed out in the sunlight). A secondary benefit to a polarizer is
it tends to make the sky bluer (IIRC this is due to eliminating
reflections off of water droplets in the air), and it can reduce
the contrast of the midday sun. Note, a polarizer will reduce the
amount of light entering the camera, which can help if you shoot in
conditions that are so bright, your camera doesn't have a small
enough aperture or fast enough shutter speed to be able to take the
picture. There are two types of polarizers, linear or circular. I
believe your camera can use either (but only the circular
polarizers come in multi-coated varieties if you want to pay for a
premium filter). A lot of places say if you have an auto-focus
camera you need a circulat polarizer, but the focusing mechanism in
most digitial cameras (other than DSLRs and maybe the new Minolta
A1/Z1) works well with linear polarizers (which are cheaper).

The third filter that people think about is the neutral density
filter which blocks light like a polarizer but don't eliminate the
reflections. You can get ND filters in a variety of strengths,
depending on how much light you want to block. One use of this is
for photographing flowing water (on a tripod) to allow for much
slower shutter speeds during the day. You can also get ND filters
that are 1/2 ND and 1/2 clear, which allows you to put the ND part
over the sky and block out light so you can photograph the
landscape in better details without the sky blowing the highlights.

Many of the other filters for film use (such as warming and cooling
filters to change the light temperture) often times aren't needed
with digital cameras, particularly if your camera has a one-touch
white balance feature which I believe the C-750UZ does have (my
camera doesn't have it, and I often times wished for it).

You can also get add-on lenses to increase your telephoto or wide
angle range, or macro lenses that let you photograph smaller
things, but I will let somebody else tell you the ins and outs of
those. It is the general wisdom that most telephoto lenses 2x or
greater don't work too well on high zoom cameras. The Olympus
TCON-17 (1.7x magnification) is generally regarded as one of the
better lenses, as is the wide angle lens WCON-07 (0.7x
magnification) and macro lens (MCON something or another). Expect
to pay ~ $100-150 for each of these.
Click to expand...
--



Olympus Camedia C-5O5OZOOM + Olympus TCON-17 1.7X Tele Conversion Lens
New gallery of photos from China: http://xjin.instantlogic.com/
 
that can be used with the C-750.

Would a slave flash working in conjunction with the built-in flash unit work OK?

Any other advise would be appreciated.

Thanks

David Roberts
James_C5050 said:
In my opinion, this (from Michael) is one of the best summary on
what filters and add-on lens you can use with your digital camera.

And you didn't even ask about what external flash units can be used
with your camera, for which Michael can certainly offer a lot more
advise :-)

James
Michael Meissner said:
CR Murthy said:
Thank you for your reply. Once I add the adapter what are some of
the add ons ? Appreciate your help.
Click to expand...
Well just about any filter of the correct size (52mm or 55mm
depending on which adapter you get). In terms of filters, the two
filters that a lot of people go for are the UV filter and the
Polarizing filter.

The UV filter is used as a lens protection (digital cameras aren't
that sensitive to UV rays like film is, so you really don't need
the UV blocking). There is one school of thought that says always
have a UV filter on the camera if you don't have some other filter
or add-on lens on it to protect the lens, while the other school
says you should take better care of your camera, and that adding
any extra glass between you and the subject can cause image
degradation. As a side note, I'm on my second UV filter, having
scratched the first one somewhere along the line, better a $15
filter than a $500 camera. If you do go the UV route, you probably
want to get a good multi-coated filter which lessons the problem of
light flare when you are shooting towards the sun.

The polarizing filter acts like polarizing sunglasses do, in that
it reduces non-metalic reflections. You rotate the filter until
you get the best effect (this is where cameras without EVF or TTL
viewfinders suck, since you need to use the LCD and that gets
washed out in the sunlight). A secondary benefit to a polarizer is
it tends to make the sky bluer (IIRC this is due to eliminating
reflections off of water droplets in the air), and it can reduce
the contrast of the midday sun. Note, a polarizer will reduce the
amount of light entering the camera, which can help if you shoot in
conditions that are so bright, your camera doesn't have a small
enough aperture or fast enough shutter speed to be able to take the
picture. There are two types of polarizers, linear or circular. I
believe your camera can use either (but only the circular
polarizers come in multi-coated varieties if you want to pay for a
premium filter). A lot of places say if you have an auto-focus
camera you need a circulat polarizer, but the focusing mechanism in
most digitial cameras (other than DSLRs and maybe the new Minolta
A1/Z1) works well with linear polarizers (which are cheaper).

The third filter that people think about is the neutral density
filter which blocks light like a polarizer but don't eliminate the
reflections. You can get ND filters in a variety of strengths,
depending on how much light you want to block. One use of this is
for photographing flowing water (on a tripod) to allow for much
slower shutter speeds during the day. You can also get ND filters
that are 1/2 ND and 1/2 clear, which allows you to put the ND part
over the sky and block out light so you can photograph the
landscape in better details without the sky blowing the highlights.

Many of the other filters for film use (such as warming and cooling
filters to change the light temperture) often times aren't needed
with digital cameras, particularly if your camera has a one-touch
white balance feature which I believe the C-750UZ does have (my
camera doesn't have it, and I often times wished for it).

You can also get add-on lenses to increase your telephoto or wide
angle range, or macro lenses that let you photograph smaller
things, but I will let somebody else tell you the ins and outs of
those. It is the general wisdom that most telephoto lenses 2x or
greater don't work too well on high zoom cameras. The Olympus
TCON-17 (1.7x magnification) is generally regarded as one of the
better lenses, as is the wide angle lens WCON-07 (0.7x
magnification) and macro lens (MCON something or another). Expect
to pay ~ $100-150 for each of these.
Click to expand...
--



Olympus Camedia C-5O5OZOOM + Olympus TCON-17 1.7X Tele Conversion Lens
New gallery of photos from China: http://xjin.instantlogic.com/
Click to expand...
 
David Roberts said:
that can be used with the C-750.

Would a slave flash working in conjunction with the built-in flash
unit work OK?

Any other advise would be appreciated.

Thanks

David Roberts
Click to expand...
Using a slave for the c-750 is a big of a step backwards. Yes, it would work, but consider these points:

1. Recycle time is slow for the c-750 built-in flash and your next shot will be delayed by 5-6 seconds, depending on the state of your batteries. A flash on your hot shoe would recycle in less time than that but you can't fire the external flash without firing the internal one first, so in either case you wait.

2. Firing the external slave using your built-in flash means you are also draining your own camera batteries aside from the external flash.

3. Using a remote slave module, would sound good on the surface, but only if you are the only one who uses this. In a wedding or an event, when the pro or another camera fires his/her flash, your slave will fire too, and if you fire a second after he did, unless your flash has a good charge, you might find that it might not give the proper strength for the proper exposure. There are slave modules with specific channels that would probably solve this problem, but this would cost more.

4. You would spend more for the slave modules and other stuff, when all you have to do is place the proper flash in the hot shoe. No fuss.

Michael Meissner can best help you on what is good for Olympus when it comes to specific brand name flashes. There are voltage considerations you must observe so as not to damage your camera.

--
  • Caterpillar
 
Caterpillar has some very good points. I don't think I would choose a flash that would be used primarily in slave mode. They do make flashes that support a slave mode IN ADDITION to being able to be fired from the hot-shoe.

I chose to "get my feet wet" with a cheap Sunpak DS20 from Wolfcamera. It's $30 and it works on my C-5050 in manual or auto mode (auto in terms of the flash no the camera). It will also work as a slave. My thoughts are to try and work with a very soft flash on the camera and have the slave fire from a slightly different angle. Just playing around more than anything.

For regular on-the-camera flash shots, I would choose a flash manual or TTL that fires off of the hot-shoe.

Later,

--
Randy C.
C-2100, C-5050, TCON-17
San Antonio, TX
 
This whole thread is full of great information. I have an Oly 730 with the CLA tube with a UV filter that I can screw my Cokin filter hood to. I had the Cokin system from my old days with my OLY OM-10. It works great with the 730 and allows me to stack filters.. has anyone found a good/cheap flash that works with the 7XX line?
Thanks,
--
Jim
Dallas
 
Donald Spencer said:
CLA-4 has a 55mm thread, the one I use is a 52mm thread

http://www.2filters.com/prices/products/digitubes.html

Digital Camera Mounting Tubes
for filters and conversion lenses

go down the list to "OLYMPUS DIGITAL 700-720-730"

45.6mm-52mm brushed chrome finish is the one I have, it takes a 52
mm filter. I never take it off the camera.
CR Murthy said:
Can I add external attachments, filters to the Olympus C-750 UZ ? I
have not bought it but would like to know the options.

Thank you.

CR
Click to expand...
--
http://www.pbase.com/galleries/donald_spencer (pbase supporter)
Click to expand...
--
zooming with C-750UZ
 
Michael,

Thank you very much for the effort you have taken to educate me on this. Between yesterday and today I am much the wiser and my wallet is lighter. I got into raynox.com, http://www.2filter.com and checked out the wide angle and extra zoom lenses.

I think I might be going for B+W multi-coated filter. I found the adapter ring and Hoya multi-angle hood thanks to another posting. What is still missing is the Xd card for 256 or 512 mb and some extra chargers .. people say mahaenergy is the place to go.

The C-750 UZ is on its way and I hoping to take some pictures at yellowstone.

Cheers

CR
Michael Meissner said:
CR Murthy said:
Thank you for your reply. Once I add the adapter what are some of
the add ons ? Appreciate your help.
Click to expand...
Well just about any filter of the correct size (52mm or 55mm
depending on which adapter you get). In terms of filters, the two
filters that a lot of people go for are the UV filter and the
Polarizing filter.

The UV filter is used as a lens protection (digital cameras aren't
that sensitive to UV rays like film is, so you really don't need
the UV blocking). There is one school of thought that says always
have a UV filter on the camera if you don't have some other filter
or add-on lens on it to protect the lens, while the other school
says you should take better care of your camera, and that adding
any extra glass between you and the subject can cause image
degradation. As a side note, I'm on my second UV filter, having
scratched the first one somewhere along the line, better a $15
filter than a $500 camera. If you do go the UV route, you probably
want to get a good multi-coated filter which lessons the problem of
light flare when you are shooting towards the sun.

The polarizing filter acts like polarizing sunglasses do, in that
it reduces non-metalic reflections. You rotate the filter until
you get the best effect (this is where cameras without EVF or TTL
viewfinders suck, since you need to use the LCD and that gets
washed out in the sunlight). A secondary benefit to a polarizer is
it tends to make the sky bluer (IIRC this is due to eliminating
reflections off of water droplets in the air), and it can reduce
the contrast of the midday sun. Note, a polarizer will reduce the
amount of light entering the camera, which can help if you shoot in
conditions that are so bright, your camera doesn't have a small
enough aperture or fast enough shutter speed to be able to take the
picture. There are two types of polarizers, linear or circular. I
believe your camera can use either (but only the circular
polarizers come in multi-coated varieties if you want to pay for a
premium filter). A lot of places say if you have an auto-focus
camera you need a circulat polarizer, but the focusing mechanism in
most digitial cameras (other than DSLRs and maybe the new Minolta
A1/Z1) works well with linear polarizers (which are cheaper).

The third filter that people think about is the neutral density
filter which blocks light like a polarizer but don't eliminate the
reflections. You can get ND filters in a variety of strengths,
depending on how much light you want to block. One use of this is
for photographing flowing water (on a tripod) to allow for much
slower shutter speeds during the day. You can also get ND filters
that are 1/2 ND and 1/2 clear, which allows you to put the ND part
over the sky and block out light so you can photograph the
landscape in better details without the sky blowing the highlights.

Many of the other filters for film use (such as warming and cooling
filters to change the light temperture) often times aren't needed
with digital cameras, particularly if your camera has a one-touch
white balance feature which I believe the C-750UZ does have (my
camera doesn't have it, and I often times wished for it).

You can also get add-on lenses to increase your telephoto or wide
angle range, or macro lenses that let you photograph smaller
things, but I will let somebody else tell you the ins and outs of
those. It is the general wisdom that most telephoto lenses 2x or
greater don't work too well on high zoom cameras. The Olympus
TCON-17 (1.7x magnification) is generally regarded as one of the
better lenses, as is the wide angle lens WCON-07 (0.7x
magnification) and macro lens (MCON something or another). Expect
to pay ~ $100-150 for each of these.
Click to expand...
 
David Roberts said:
that can be used with the C-750.

Would a slave flash working in conjunction with the built-in flash
unit work OK?

Any other advise would be appreciated.

Thanks
Click to expand...
My general Olympus flash FAQ is at:

http://www.the-meissners.org/olympus-flash.html

In terms of slave flashes, unless you are doing a multiple flash setup (or have a camera that doesn't have external flash support like the C-720UZ and C-740UZ), you probably will get better results with using a normal flash connected to the hot-shoe, since you won't have to try and balance the two light sources.

Note that by default, Olympus cameras have a preflash when using either the internal flash or a TTL flash like the Olympus FL-40. This means you might need to get a slave flash that can skip the first flash and only fire on the second flash (most slaves particularly for film cameras only fire on the first flash). The C-5050Z had added a mode that eliminated that, and I would assume a newer camera like the C-750UZ would also have it (but on the other hand, one of the targets for the C-5050Z is the low-end studio market where that is important, and the C-750UZ is targeted more towards a consumer P&S long zoom camera).
 
CR Murthy said:
Michael,

Thank you very much for the effort you have taken to educate me on
this. Between yesterday and today I am much the wiser and my wallet
is lighter. I got into raynox.com, http://www.2filter.com and checked out
the wide angle and extra zoom lenses.

I think I might be going for B+W multi-coated filter. I found the
adapter ring and Hoya multi-angle hood thanks to another posting.
What is still missing is the Xd card for 256 or 512 mb and some
extra chargers .. people say mahaenergy is the place to go.
Click to expand...
A lot of people like http://www.newegg.com for media, though I am still burned by the CD-RW I bought for my father had the wrong color faceplate (I had specifically ordered black) and the replacement faceplate they said they were going to ship never arrived in time for my trip out there.

In terms of chargers, a lot of people like the Maha chargers at:

http://www.thomas-distributing.com/

I personally like the Lightning Pack 4000N from:

http://www.ripvan100.com/

since it has no cord, and especially no wall wart, and is very small and fits easily in my camera bag.
 
Thanks Caterpillar.

I appreciate your advice.

I only picked up a C-750 today and wondered about the flash hotshoe compatability with third-party flashes like the Sunpak 383. I haven't even had time to read all the books that came with it yet.

I took a few pics with it though and I am amazed at how sharp and clear the pics are. Probably the best thing I have found so far is the way the focus area jumps to what it has actually focused and does not lead you to believe you have focused correctly on your intended subject.

That's about as far as I have got up to now. But I'll be watching your posts for more help.

Thanks again

David Roberts
Caterpillar said:
David Roberts said:
that can be used with the C-750.

Would a slave flash working in conjunction with the built-in flash
unit work OK?

Any other advise would be appreciated.

Thanks

David Roberts
Click to expand...
Using a slave for the c-750 is a big of a step backwards. Yes, it
would work, but consider these points:

1. Recycle time is slow for the c-750 built-in flash and your next
shot will be delayed by 5-6 seconds, depending on the state of your
batteries. A flash on your hot shoe would recycle in less time than
that but you can't fire the external flash without firing the
internal one first, so in either case you wait.

2. Firing the external slave using your built-in flash means you
are also draining your own camera batteries aside from the external
flash.

3. Using a remote slave module, would sound good on the surface,
but only if you are the only one who uses this. In a wedding or an
event, when the pro or another camera fires his/her flash, your
slave will fire too, and if you fire a second after he did, unless
your flash has a good charge, you might find that it might not give
the proper strength for the proper exposure. There are slave
modules with specific channels that would probably solve this
problem, but this would cost more.

4. You would spend more for the slave modules and other stuff, when
all you have to do is place the proper flash in the hot shoe. No
fuss.

Michael Meissner can best help you on what is good for Olympus when
it comes to specific brand name flashes. There are voltage
considerations you must observe so as not to damage your camera.

--
  • Caterpillar
Click to expand...
 
Thanks Randy

I think you mentioned the operative words here: Playing Around. This is probably the best way to find out most things.

I will probably get a Sunpak 383 or somethnig cheap to play with first. However, flash is not going to be a strong subject for me as I bought this C750 mainly for when we go hiking and a little landscape stuff here and there. The pics so far are crisp and sharp - amazing quality - so far!

Thanks again.
Randy Collins said:
Caterpillar has some very good points. I don't think I would
choose a flash that would be used primarily in slave mode. They do
make flashes that support a slave mode IN ADDITION to being able to
be fired from the hot-shoe.

I chose to "get my feet wet" with a cheap Sunpak DS20 from
Wolfcamera. It's $30 and it works on my C-5050 in manual or auto
mode (auto in terms of the flash no the camera). It will also work
as a slave. My thoughts are to try and work with a very soft flash
on the camera and have the slave fire from a slightly different
angle. Just playing around more than anything.

For regular on-the-camera flash shots, I would choose a flash
manual or TTL that fires off of the hot-shoe.

Later,

--
Randy C.
C-2100, C-5050, TCON-17
San Antonio, TX
Click to expand...
 
Thanks for the in=depth advice Michael. All clever and intreresting stuff.

I wasn't sure whether the hotshoe was just for Oly flashes or whether it would work OK with third party flashes. Obviously it'll work with Sunpak so I will ditch the slave idea, but that might be worth thinking about for side lighting when taking product shots etc.

I think you are correct in saying the 750 is more "targetted" toward the P&S brigade. However, I do have a sneaky feeling that this thing will perform well in other areas as well.

Thanks again for the help.
Michael Meissner said:
David Roberts said:
that can be used with the C-750.

Would a slave flash working in conjunction with the built-in flash
unit work OK?

Any other advise would be appreciated.

Thanks
Click to expand...
My general Olympus flash FAQ is at:

http://www.the-meissners.org/olympus-flash.html

In terms of slave flashes, unless you are doing a multiple flash
setup (or have a camera that doesn't have external flash support
like the C-720UZ and C-740UZ), you probably will get better results
with using a normal flash connected to the hot-shoe, since you
won't have to try and balance the two light sources.

Note that by default, Olympus cameras have a preflash when using
either the internal flash or a TTL flash like the Olympus FL-40.
This means you might need to get a slave flash that can skip the
first flash and only fire on the second flash (most slaves
particularly for film cameras only fire on the first flash). The
C-5050Z had added a mode that eliminated that, and I would assume a
newer camera like the C-750UZ would also have it (but on the other
hand, one of the targets for the C-5050Z is the low-end studio
market where that is important, and the C-750UZ is targeted more
towards a consumer P&S long zoom camera).
Click to expand...
 
David Roberts said:
Thanks for the in=depth advice Michael. All clever and intreresting
stuff.
Click to expand...
You are welcome.
Dai Bando said:
I wasn't sure whether the hotshoe was just for Oly flashes or
whether it would work OK with third party flashes. Obviously it'll
work with Sunpak so I will ditch the slave idea, but that might be
worth thinking about for side lighting when taking product shots
etc.
Click to expand...
Minolta is the only digital camera that I'm aware of whose hot-shoe doesn't work with the generic auto-thrystor type flashes.
Dai Bando said:
I think you are correct in saying the 750 is more "targetted"
toward the P&S brigade. However, I do have a sneaky feeling that
this thing will perform well in other areas as well.
Click to expand...
Well it is more towards the prosumer brigade than the pure p&s, since it does have extensive manual controls, and such.
 
CR Murthy said:
Can I add external attachments, filters to the Olympus C-750 UZ ? I
have not bought it but would like to know the options.

Thank you.

CR
Click to expand...
This is what I have ended up adding so far.

Bought another charger set and 8 batteries.

Bought a Hoya SMC - circular polarizer with cap

Bought a Hoya multi-angle hood

Bought the digi tube for C-720 series - similar to CLA-4

Bought the wide angle - raynox - dcr5000 0.5 X

Still need to buy the xD picture card - 256 Mb. The cheapest so far has been $117 for a new one

Havent bought a flash as yet.

Thank for your help guys.
 
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