Started Jun 6, 2016 | Questions thread
alcelc Forum Pro • Posts: 20,536

Don't own LX100 but as per general features of Panasonic's M43 cameras (LX100 is a fixed lens model), it has HDR features.

According to the User's Manual, there are 3 features of LX100 relating to HDR.

1) iHDR (P.79 of Manual), when enable, I guess (a new feature not offered by any other Panasonic M43 cameras) would like the iDynamic or iResolution, the camera would apply the effect when the camera thinks applicable. Better confirmation from LX100 users.

2) In-camera HDR (P.113 of Manual) which offering an option of 3 burst shots in 1/2/3ev apart. In this mode "Auto-Align" should better be set to "On". The HDR function can be assigned to any of the 3 fn buttons, or 1 of the 15 soft keys in Q.Menu for quick activation. After the 3 shots, the camera would merger the 3 photos into one with HDR effect.

3) The normal Exposure Bracketing (P.145 of Manual). In which we can select 1/5/7 burst shots and in 1/3 or 2/3 or 1ev apart. After shooting, by HDR software we can merge the shots into one HDR photo. Since it would be created by PP, we can have a lot of say in the effect other than the relatively simple in-camera HDR mode of the camera.

When I first upgrade to GX7, I was very happy with the in-camera HDR function (quick to see result) and had been quite successful until my last trip. In that trip I had a lot of indoor architecture shooting and HDR was excellent for the job. Sadly after returning home, upon closer examination I found most of the HDRs were ruined by the auto alignment problem.

The following is one without HDR shot recently:

The original high contrast scene.

A crop of the water wheel from the above:

The moving water wheel had been frozen by the shutter speed

A HDR by PP from 3 photos of 1ev apart shot under Exposure Bracketing:

HDR by PP in natural mode

A crop of the water wheel from the above HDR image:

Motion distortion can been seen

Comparing to the in-camera HDR, the above were already not bad for a scene involves motion.

The following is a sad experience from my recent travelling. It was a completely still scene (doom ceiling of a historical building in Kashan, Iran). Due to the high contrast (direct sun light, bright white ceiling, and the rich decoration in shadow) it should one one of the best candidate for HDR. Sadly like 70% of my 100+ HDRs from that trip, it had been ruined by the poor image alignment of the in-camera function:

OOC (reizing only) of in-camera HDR

A crop to the focus area:

Reasonably sharp for such 10+ meter high ceiling

A crop to the edge:

Totally blurry edge, double to triple image could be seen...

Therefore, scene has not much moving elements (i.e., wind blowing leaf, moving pet, walking pedestrian, other moving elements etc), and good stabilization (tripod or so) would be key to get good HDR.

Since my last time failure, I also prefer Exposure Bracketing + PP HDR rather than in-camera HDR. Basically any camera offering Exposure compensation could do the job.

Just my 0.02.

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