EPL6 & Shutter Shock - explain it to me like I'm a 10-year old

gear1box wrote:

Jsara --

Guy offers an excellent summary of measures available to counter SS and their consequences. And forgive me for presuming that you are the slightest bit interested in the reaction of a whizzened old guy to all this.

Don't worry, I'm also just a wizened old Guy.

But . . . Avoid shooting from 1/30 to 1/320? EXCUSE ME! Those are the three most valuable and common stops of shutter speed that most of us reflexively use. So that is a really big deal. Basically the only way to comply is to drive the ISO from, say, 400 to 3200 . . . which is obviously not so nice to image quality on a small m4/3 sensor.

Yes, totally nuts suggestion, but it is a favourite bit of advice often trotted out by the great unwashed here. I totally ignored it of course and occasionally had to suffer with some shock issues, but did not let the shock issues spoil my day.

It is worse with some lenses than others and even holding technique seems to matter. If you have the problem -- and you will not want to hear this -- but the final answer is to choose a newer m4/3 body (like, say, the PL7 if you like that form factor) that has a feature like "zero shutter", EFCS, etc, which, i am happy to say, effectively eliminates the problem.

I had the problem with a couple of Panny bodies. It was very very frustrating to try and reliably get a sharp shot and in early m4/3 days we didn't understand that much about it. I shoot a PL7 now, and an EM5 (which only has the 1/8 shutter function) that do not seem to exhibit it.

The earlier Oly bodies with 2 axis IBIS and shutter shockability really added to the fun factor. Now with me using E-P5 that has all gone away and I get boringly sharp images all the time.

I'll try and find an old accidental shot that distinctly shows the blur that the old 2 axis IBIS can add. Nope, can't be found right now but in effect it was a shot accidentally taken while I was moving the camera. Night scene and the long exposure had some small bright lights in it. The lights of course were long streaks wavering across the frame due to camera movement, but the interesting bit was that the streaks all had a small high frequency wobble to them, proving to me that the 2 axis IBIS adds that wobble to everything thus creating a tiny blur. The 3/5 axis IBIS does not add any blur.

And of course it is a given that proper hand-holding methods are a must, sloppy one-handed shooting is a definite non-no.

Regards....... Guy