the thing is, I'm having a hard time getting a good manual focus, maybe it's my eyes? but I can't get a sharp image when I'm using manual focus on a still object using just a view finder.
I use Live View for this reason. I've never been able to focus well through the viewfinder, not well enough for a 36 mp camera, anyway. My macro shots don't include moving targets, though, so I can get away with this.
live view is not an option in a sunny day. I'll try and get used to the viewfinder and see how it goes, thanks
The problem with manual focus, though it's mostly used on macro, is twofold. One, modern cameras have fine focusing screens which make identifying proper focus pretty hard to do. In the old days, the focusing screen was more granular and we had aids like split image centers and coarse collars to help.
Secondly, those same issues with a darker viewfinder in macro and with a converter also apply to your eyes. It's harder to identify focus and the helper focus attained lights are more confused in a dimmer situation.
What I do if the bug isn't particularly moving or other small still life subjects is to focus the lens at the closest, then move the entire lens/camera et al in and out until focus is achieved. I and many others use a tripod and focusing rail to make this somewhat easy. Instead of moving the whole thing, you get close, then adjust focus by turning the geared knob on the macro focusing rail. I use a double geared rail for side to side positioning as well as focus in and out. I think focusing rails are both inexpensive and indispensable.
For longer distance biting creatures on the wing. I use high frame rates and a 300mm non-macro lens. I'll crop to size in post if possible.
Below is my Phottix double geared focus rails with Manfrotto RC2 quick release added. There's also a pair of Nikon's SB200 wireless macro strobes from the RC1 kit on the end of the lens. That's my favorite macro lens in my kit. It gives me more working distance yet still f/2.8 speed if I want it. That's a Sigma 150 f/2.8 APO Macro lens. I don't believe there's a better macro lens by anyone anywhere. I often use this for out of studio product photography. In studio, I use studio strobes and a macro light table as well as the focus rails.
Another trick you probably should learn for still macro is focus stacking. I won't get into it, but you can Google it if you want. It takes care of the depth of field issues you experience with macro. It won't work on moving critters. Critters who move might get a little sandwich bag and freezer time. ;-)
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Cheers, Craig
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