alexisgreat wrote:
Hi, sorry for the late response! I was curious what are the shutter speeds of shutter shock so I know to avoid it! I wonder why this issue exists, since mirrorless cameras are supposed to be like compact cameras, except with bigger sensors? Never had this issue with the C-7070
It varies according to the lens in use and the camera model (some say it doesn't exist at all) - it's a rather complex set of variables which contribute to whether it becomes visible in a shot. With, say, the kit zoom at 42 mm, it could show up between 1/100 and 1/160 - annoyingly, the typical "safe" handholdable speeds you'd normally use. The reason for it is the vertical running focal plane shutter, as on a DSLR - no mirror to slap of course, but a close, open sequence before the exposure (the close, reopen after the exposure not being a problem except maybe in sequential shooting). Your C-7070 has a leaf shutter either in or just behind the lens, operating in a more iris-like manner - a very low-noise, low-impact shutter type that is not ideally suited for use with interchangeable lenses (though it's been done in 35mm film SLRs of the fifties and sixties, and longer for medium format, but it usually means expensive lenses and added complexity, with increased potential for unreliability in some of the 35mm ones).
I am going to use either shutter priority or full manual so I can avoid the dreaded shutter shock issue. Also wondering why setting anti shock to 1/8 sec doesn't help- is it because the mechanical shutter is still being used, while the E-PL7 uses an electronic shutter with antishock 0 sec mode?
1/8 AS can sometimes help and it's by no means certain you will see a problem. But electronic first curtain shutter, achieved with 0 sec AS on the later models, is very effective, and fully electronic shutter on the Mark II OM-Ds avoids the risk altogether, though with its own caveats.
Something else I was wondering about is there a way to set exposure compensation in manual mode? I want to use it to change the ISO with a single button press when AUTO ISO is set.
Unfortunately, not possible in M mode. A couple of other brands allow it. I suppose a clunky workaround would be to temporarily fiddle around with the exposure shift function for the metering mode you are using in the Utility gear menu. It doesn't have a wide range of adjustability though, doesn't show on the display and is easy to forget and leave set accidentally! Oh, and it curtails the exposure compensation range - in modes with access to that feature - at the ends of the ISO range. It's more intended for tuning a camera whose metering seems a bit "off", even if only in one metering type, so is handy nonetheless (I've only ever had to use it on one camera).
I was reading somewhere that the real controller either wears down or becomes more sensitive after using it for awhile, is this true, Helen
Yes, I have experienced this issue. I wonder if it is more connected with a prolonged period of "rest" for the camera, actually - but maybe wear can lead to it, too. It's not certain to happen, of course.
Are all the Pens and Pen-Lites made of metal while the OM-D's are part metal, part plastic?
It's tricky to be fully certain of exact materials, particularly under the skin, but from my observations the Pen E-P models have all had fully metal exteriors (most likely pressed/formed aluminium alloy with a kind of metal sheeting on the brushed areas of the earlier ones, but perhaps a cast top plate on the E-P5, can't quite decide). The E-PL1 and 2 had aluminium alloy fronts with a plastic back half - so does the E-PM2, but the E-PL3, 5, 6 and 7 plus the E-PM1 also have a metal back half. The E-M5 and E-M5 Mark II have cast magnesium alloy top plates and the base and front half of the middle are also metal (probably the same material at least in the case of the front half, which is of course skinned on the front with leatherette, and the metal is very possibly pressed/formed for the base); on the E-M1, the back is cast too, but the fives have the back skinned in polycarbonate so I guess what's under that part is a mystery. The E-M10 models have the middle and back section (i.e. the leatheretted front part and the back - basically the black parts of a silver camera) in polycarbonate, but the top and base are metal, with a pressed aluminium alloy cap on the pop up flash. I suspect the top and base of the E-M10 original MIGHT still be mag alloy as it is painted like the senior models (but so is the aluminium flash cover, so it could be aluminium - forgive the extra syllable, I'm British!). The E-M10 Mark II's metal parts are more likely aluminium alloy since they are anodised like on the silver and the black versions of the E-PL5 and 7 (though if your E-PL6 is black, you'll know that variant is painted).
