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dark current noise

Started Jan 5, 2016 | Discussions thread
OP alexisgreat Veteran Member • Posts: 6,459
Re: Home-made "slim" T-Ring adapter for Micro 4/3

Astrotripper wrote:

alexisgreat wrote:

Astrotripper wrote:

alexisgreat wrote:

Can I just use the timer with the E-PL6 and avoid shutter shock with the telescope? I set antishock to 1/8 sec since there is no 0 sec option There isn't an electronic shutter either (at least I have not found any option for it.)

If you scope is anything like mine, then no. There should be no problems with the big one (Nexstar), though (at least I would expect so).

I think my MAK is like yours, the original mount is very- brittle. I bought some mounting rings for it to attach it to the Nexstar Mount so I think that might help when I move the OTA there. I'm also looking to get a dovetail mount to directly attach the camera to the mount (without a scope) I was told that set up is good enough for 1 minute exposures without significant star trailing. So a bunch of 1 minute exposures could be done that way and then stacked.

That's right. I have something like that, only more primitive (Sky-Watcher Virtoso) and I did some astrophotography tests just few days ago. Works pretty well if you don't aim it up too much (it pretty much stops working when pointing directly at zenith, but maybe the one you have behaves better). Anyway, you can take a look at what I came back with here, here and here . All single exposures without any stacking.

The one I have you can move up and down along the dovetail to adjust for viewing along the zenith and this is where the tilting LCD might come in handy (either that or I'll try a diagonal.)

Wow those are spectacular with the EM10! I think you might have captured stars down to mag 13-14 in there (especially the double cluster.) I had a question- was that the actual color of the stars, some of them look very magenta-purplish. One of the settings I was looking at was something which makes the WB cast "warm" at higher ISO, should I leave it at that or set it to "Normal" so there is no warm WB cast at higher ISO. I was a bit confused as to what this setting actually does, but maybe it will make star colors come out better?

 alexisgreat's gear list:alexisgreat's gear list
Olympus C-7070 Wide Zoom Fujifilm FinePix HS20 EXR Fujifilm FinePix HS50 EXR Olympus E-520 Olympus PEN E-PL6 +3 more
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