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dark current noise

Started Jan 5, 2016 | Discussions thread
clengman
clengman Senior Member • Posts: 1,991
Re: dark current noise

Astrotripper wrote:

alexisgreat wrote:

Astrotripper wrote:

It's a usual trade-off of a smaller sensor. You will obviously get more noise from it. But at least for astrophotography, you can counter that by stacking. Got more noise? Acquire more data for stacking. You can get really good results from MFT cameras if you get the hang of it. Obviously, optics is a very important aspect as well. It's not gonna work if all you have is a slow kit zoom lens.

You know, there's always something better. And at the end of that road, is dedicated equipment that costs thousand of dollars per piece

Yep, plus 4/3 sensors aren't much smaller than APS-C plus I can argue that 4:3 aspect ratio is better for AP! I got this camera firstly because I wanted a really lightweight combo to couple to my telescope(s) and the weight of the EPL-6 is almost the same as a CCD camera (since you dont need a flash or an EVF to be attached all the time.)

Ahh, I see, we're talking about a more serious attempts at astrophotography. The E-PL is a nice little camera to attach to a telescope. And a tilting screen is a big plus as well

I need to get 4/3 attachments to connect it to a telescope though and I want to know if I can use my 1.25" light pollution filters with it without much vignetting. How close to the sensor can one get the filter using telescope attachments? I know the flange distance is 19.25mm but I'm hoping that I can get the sensor to filter distance to about 35mm when using my f/6.3 reducer/corrector and to about 54mm when using my Nexstar 8 at f/10. That would mean no vignetting.

This can be tricky. Your usual T2-MFT adapters are actually quite long. Mine is something like 40mm or so. It was annoying me, because when I had the camera attached to my newtonian telescope with this long adapter, the tube on the side where you attach an eyepiece/camera (sorry, can't remember what it's called in English) was almost entirely inside the telescope tube, partly obstructing the primary mirror.

I'm interested. I tried a t2 adapter and had the same issue. In fact I would have had to move my mirror quite a bit to achieve focus. I decided to return it and haven't made any serious attempts at astrophotography since then.

I've got a 5" somewhat fast Newt and I still have thoughts of buying a paracorr and a GEM mount and seeing what it can do.

So I made my own, "slim" adapter by combining parts of two completely different adapters. I'll try posting some photos of it later.

 clengman's gear list:clengman's gear list
Olympus E-M1 Olympus Zuiko Digital ED 70-300mm 1:4.0-5.6 Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 40-150mm 1:4-5.6 Olympus M.Zuiko Digital 14-42mm 1:3.5-5.6 II R Rokinon 7.5mm F3.5 UMC Fisheye CS +4 more
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