dark current noise

Astrotripper wrote:

alexisgreat wrote:

Astrotripper wrote:

It's a usual trade-off of a smaller sensor. You will obviously get more noise from it. But at least for astrophotography, you can counter that by stacking. Got more noise? Acquire more data for stacking. You can get really good results from MFT cameras if you get the hang of it. Obviously, optics is a very important aspect as well. It's not gonna work if all you have is a slow kit zoom lens.

You know, there's always something better. And at the end of that road, is dedicated equipment that costs thousand of dollars per piece

Yep, plus 4/3 sensors aren't much smaller than APS-C plus I can argue that 4:3 aspect ratio is better for AP! I got this camera firstly because I wanted a really lightweight combo to couple to my telescope(s) and the weight of the EPL-6 is almost the same as a CCD camera (since you dont need a flash or an EVF to be attached all the time.)

Ahh, I see, we're talking about a more serious attempts at astrophotography. The E-PL is a nice little camera to attach to a telescope. And a tilting screen is a big plus as well

I need to get 4/3 attachments to connect it to a telescope though and I want to know if I can use my 1.25" light pollution filters with it without much vignetting. How close to the sensor can one get the filter using telescope attachments? I know the flange distance is 19.25mm but I'm hoping that I can get the sensor to filter distance to about 35mm when using my f/6.3 reducer/corrector and to about 54mm when using my Nexstar 8 at f/10. That would mean no vignetting.

This can be tricky. Your usual T2-MFT adapters are actually quite long. Mine is something like 40mm or so. It was annoying me, because when I had the camera attached to my newtonian telescope with this long adapter, the tube on the side where you attach an eyepiece/camera (sorry, can't remember what it's called in English) was almost entirely inside the telescope tube, partly obstructing the primary mirror. So I made my own, "slim" adapter by combining parts of two completely different adapters. I'll try posting some photos of it later.

Thanks I appreciate it! Is there somewhere in this combo where a 1.25" filter can be threaded? I dont think the usual Celestron parts allow this, part numbers 93625 and 93633-A. Agena Astro has some that might work though.

This is what someone said to me in the AP forum:

neither of those celestron adapter says in the description they allow for 1.25" filters. the SCT to T thread certainly would not. The 93625 1.25" adapter looks like it has internal threads that are there for stray light baffling, and typically also cut to fit 1.25" filter accessories... but i dont see or read any description that it does... other than there is a similar adapter with a 2x magnifying barlow at the end that clearly threads on... #93640

http://www.celestron.com/browse-shop/astronomy/astroimaging-accessories/t-rings-and-adapters/125-universal-barlow-and-t-adapter

these adapter from blue fireball and baader certainly do fit 1.25 filters as they say in the description.

http://agenaastro.com/blue-fireball-1-25-prime-focus-t-adapter.html

http://agenaastro.com/baader-1-25-nosepiece-t-2-adapter-t2-14-2458105.html

you do not need, or should not need to use a diagonal with your camera. it will likely add too much back focus distance, youll never reach focus. and make it considerably less stable.

i would stick with the #93633-A SCT to T thread adapter, and just get the MFT to T thread adapter. it will be overall more stable and direct and not vignette the sensor.

if you really want to put a 1.25" filter in the system, it looks like you can use this adapter which should be perfect for you.

http://agenaastro.com/blue-fireball-t-t2-male-m28-5-female-thread-adapter-t-10.html