DP2m: first images, first problems

xpatUSA wrote:

(2) My second concern is about micro contrast. In some case it is really too high for my taste, I like better the one of the original DP2. To reduce it I decrease the contrast and the presence (in LR5), but still I’m not completely happy with the results.

How about Gaussian smoothing with a fairly low radius? Assuming that LR has it.

many thanks Ted for your help, LR has no Gaussian smoothing, I could try another program, but I'm quite lazy on that, the workflow for merrill files is already quite complex and slow

Have you tried low resolution (never medium) mode? I use it most of the time unless I really, really need high resolution.

no, never tried, but I will

(3) The WB and the colors are improved w.r.t. the ones of the DP2. I use AWB that I correct to my taste in SPP, but some times it is quite difficult to find a good WB. I know that somebody hate AWB, but when I try all the other WB options in SPP they are really far from the one I like (in general they have a strong yellowish cast). I never understood if there is a difference to change the WB in SPP or to use directly a specific WB when one takes the image.

There is no difference for the review image in SPP. Either way, WB is set by the values passed as meta-data in the X3F file to SPP. All the WB values are passed so, if you change the WB in SPP, it reloads the X3F using the newly-selected WB's from-the-camera values.

ok, then, as I supposed, WB is just a software process on sensor output

The image in the camera LCD may use different (faster) parameters. You can check that by comparing the X3F embedded JPEG to a JPEG conversion saved from SPP.

yes, I know, I never trust the LCD that indeed is almost invisible outdoor

Someone here will know how to extract the embedded JPEG. There are several methods; I use FastStone Viewer but I think it can be done out of SPP - anybody?

We seem to differ considerably as to WB (I have the SD1 Merrill). I never use AWB, which is easily fooled by many types of scene. I shoot with the in-camera WB selected to my best guess for the scene.

this makes sense especially if you have a series of very similar images because you need to adjust the WB once, but I often chose just one or two images, the ones I like better, in a series

Then, in SPP, I color-pick a neutral object in the area of interest in the captured image. I always shoot raw.

I always try that, but often it is very difficult to find neutral objects in landscapes even though sometime some stones work

many thanks again