Sports photography with NX1000

Burst mode produces 5MP images, but the bad thing is they are awful - full of jaggies and moire. Continuous High is better choice (8 fps is quite sufficient, in classical DSLRs you would have to shell out for big guns to get faster than that).

The problem is that write times on NX1000 are very long, especially for RAW+JPEG (~30s for buffer to clear). When I'm shooting with 50-200mm, especially at the long end, here's what I do:

1. Use 10M images - this lens at 200mm is not actually producing 20MP worth of images anyway (same goes for any consumer zoom at far end) - write times are almost halved (JPEG only though)

2. AF-S and pre-focus on something and wait for action to come to focus zone - not ideal, but AF-C is a joke on samsung cameras prior to NX1/NX500. This was they way to shoot in MF days as well and with a bit of practice can be very useful (especially in fast moving action when it's very hard for any camera to focus where you want it)

3. 1/1000s if anything is moving fast. Don't worry about ISO if you are at 1600 or under. If 3200 and over - find a decent noise removal tool.

4. 8fps and hope for the best.

Always remember - noisy image is much better than out of focus image or motion blurred image. Raise ISO before you slow the shutter.

When I bought the camera I was disappointed with ISO 3200 performance (chroma noise in blotches, etc) when viewed at 1:1. Then I went a spent a lot of time cleaning up some shots taken at 3200 and 6400 (12800 is there just for marketing, hardly usable at all) and they came out quite OK in 15x10cm prints. Once I didn't have time to clean them at all and had to print straight from camera (ISO3200) - and you know what? They came out perfectly usable when prited at 15x10cm. We tend to get easily drawn into pixel peeping and whatnot, but we should just print more.