Is the pana 7-14mm that bad on an oly camera?

Started May 12, 2015 | Discussions thread
Anders W Forum Pro • Posts: 21,468
Re: It depends on how you use the lens

CrisPhoto wrote:

I bought a 1A gel filter at BH whhen I was in New York. It was the only cheap filter on stock at that time.

It has a magenta tint instead oft yellow but it works quite nice too. Auto white balance handles the tint perfectly, even when I import the photos into LightRoom. I have the impression that it is not very important which type of UV gel filter is applied ...

Hi Christof,

I very much doubt that a 1A filter works nearly as well as a 2A or 2E. When the purple flare problem with the 7-14/4 on an Oly body first surfaced three years ago (see here) one of the very first things some of us investigated was the effect of UV/Skylight filters. We found no or little impact and therefore turned our attention to other potential causes.

This turned out to be a major mistake. It set us on the wrong track for quite a while and explains why the cure wasn't found until more than half a year later. The reason that we didn't find much of an effect was simply that the filters we all had lying around to play with were ordinary UV/Skylight filters, which are all too weak (including 1A which was one of those I personally tried at that point).

Nearly all UV/Skylight filters out there are about the same strength as the UV filter that is already in place on the sensor of Oly bodies. What you need is a filter that roughly matches the strength of that used on the sensor in Panasonic bodies, which means a cut-point at about 420-430 nm rather than at about 400 nm or below. Wratten 2A and 2E fit that bill but none of us had any of those lying around. They were pretty unusual even back in the film days I think, when they were used for the purpose they were originally designed for: to cut through haze (increase contrast) in B&W photography.

What eventually solved the mystery was that I had the good idea of trying a yellow filter (K2) meant for B&W photography that I had lying around since the film days. You can call that an extremely strong UV filter if you want, since it cuts away a significant part of blue and lets everything else pass (i.e., a so-called longpass filter, just like other UV filters, but with the cut point placed well into the visible spectrum, cutting everything shorter than about 460 nm and some of the light even as high as the 460-500 nm range).

You find the result of that experiment here. As you can see, it turned out to have a very clear effect, removing pretty much all of the purple. At that point, I immediately realized what was actually going on. Then it was just a matter of pinpointing the right strength. The yellow filter was clearly overkill although even when using that, I managed to make things look rather OK after WB adjustment. The only filters available between weak UV filters with little or no effect (cut-poiint at about 400 nm or below) and a K2 yellow filter (aka Wratten 8) are the 2A and 2E so it's got to be one of those.

 Anders W's gear list:Anders W's gear list
Panasonic Lumix DMC-G1 Olympus OM-D E-M5 Olympus E-M1 Panasonic Lumix G Vario 14-45mm F3.5-5.6 ASPH OIS Panasonic Lumix G Vario 7-14mm F4 ASPH +28 more
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