Making Cross-Eyed 3D with One Camera

threed123 wrote:

Can you post a result? And/or the two separate images so I/we can see what you mean?

Saving as a tif or jpg should not make a difference. If the subject is beyond 15 feet you won't see much depth in a small crosseyed image anyway. Better to make it anaglyph and bigger to get more depth. Also for cha cha, avoid wide angle less than 28mm as that pushes the objects back too much. Also avoid zoom in unless you widen the separation of the camera between shots. 35mm-50mm is considered about 1:1 for normal eye separation. Crosseyed images versus free image are two different viewing processes and crosseyed makes the objects look smaller because your brain is thinking you are looking at something up close. To free-view the two separate images, you have to keep them small so the objects are no more than 2.5" apart. Anaglyph allows your eyes to free-view normally and you can make the image as big as your monitor without causing eye strain (usually--make sure the most distant objects are equal or less than the separation of your eyes--typically 2.5"). Here are two examples from a Fuji W3. The three image view allows you to view crosseyed and free-eyes straight, but notice how small the objects look and compressed depth. The anaglyph really pops the ducks out of the window. These were made from an MPO file straight out of the camera. I could have aligned and made the popout even more pronounced of course. With anaglyph, the less red in the scene the better.

Two on the left are for free viewing. Two on right are crosseyed viewing.

Anaglyph.

Thanks threed123, actually my stereo photos are looking ok now. Also, the images in your post look very good. For the ducks photo, is that done with exaggerated stereo? I ask because it looks like the ducks extend beyond the surface of the image towards the viewer.