The Superzoom which actually DOES it

I would be using it on my Oly E-M5, and it would replace my Oly 40-150 and possibly my Panasonic 14-42II. What do you think? You and I are both fans of the Panasonic 14-42II. Would there be much, if any, difference in image quality if the 14-140 were used in daylight outdoors and at the optimal f-stops (5.6 and at the longer focal lengths, f8)?

Going by this sample, setting the cam F5.6 all the way it`ll be bang on, I`d say I`d beat the Olympus 40-150 wideopen in the same focal lengths - all F8 wil bring is diffraction , the lens is tack sharp at 140mm wideopen .. if you need to use F3.5 at the wide end indoors, it`ll be fine too .. at F5.6 it matches the Panny 14-42-II easily and I`d even say it was more stable focus wise

I`d go as far as to say that if you get this lens, you`ll dump the Oly 40-150, it`ll be totally redundant - the 14-42-II would be to if it wasn`t so small

I've included the short statement from your message above because I wanted to see if that meant the OIS kept running even if you set the switch on the lens to "off."

the OIS needs to run to keep the Stabilizer optic centralized, its the same in the 14-42 too, it just galls me that we can`t switch off IBIS and use it (to save power if nothing else) but it does`t seem to use much power . the OIS is almost silent, you have to hold your ear to it to hear it . Oly IBIS however sounds like a gasleak - LOL

Since you tested this lens on the E-M5, did you see any sign of shutter shock, as some people have reported with this lens?

Shutter shock has no connection with this lens in particular - it`s no worse than it is on any lenses covering the same focal length - have I seen it? - yes but then I`ve seen It with the 45-150, the Oly 40-150 etc too, it`s the focal length and shutter speed in combo with the mass of the whole rig which causes the issue not the actual lens on the cam .. a heavier lens like the 100-300 is less of an issue , I`d say the Oly 40-150 is worse for it .. if you hold the rig steady, you should be fine.

One final question is, which brand of 2A UV filter did you use to deal with the purple fringing problem?

I always use Hoya Super HMC Pro1s, thankfully the lens has a 58mm thread ! . I shoot RAW and can easily remove any CA if there is any - amazingly the "real" CA (red/cyan type) seems less on this lens than the 14-42-II or 14-45 ! .