How many raws in continous shooting? How long to wait for next series?

Started Aug 10, 2014 | Discussions thread
l_d_allan Veteran Member • Posts: 5,050
Continuous: can depend on how much light. Faster than I expected.

3dreal wrote:

For panoramic-multirow-shootings(mosaics) i need to know how quick DP2Q is working.

Me: DP2-Q newbie with 5-day trial, so "consider the source".

I was taking HDR images this morning, from pre-dawn to post-dawn. I thought the images went pretty fast once there was enough light. Pre-dawn, the 1 EV bracket of 8s, 16s, 30s took quite a while, perhaps 20, 40, 60.

FWIW: I was busy making images on my Canon 6d full-frame with 50mm prime to later compare IQ, so wasn't paying that much attention to the Q. With the 6d, I can disable DFS (dark frame subtraction).

Actually, it was pretty demanding what I did once the sun came up ... HDR in 1/3 stops from -2 EC to +3 EC ... like a 12-15 bracketed HDR. This was related to figuring out ETTR with RawDigger.

Anyway, the bursts of three went very fast. Actually, the 5x3=15 image brackets went pretty much as fast as I could adjust the shutter speed to accomplish the equivalent of EC:

  • burst of three with EC -1
  • burst of three with EC 0
  • burst of three with EC +1
  • burst of three with EC +2
  • burst of three with EC +3
  • Those 15 were done pretty much as fast as I could press the shutter, then revise the shutter speed.

With long exposures, there may be some dark frame subtraction going on, auto-magically behind your back. This can double the exposure time, and the increase CPU processing and maybe storage. I'm not clear how to turn that off, as it makes the camera unsuitable for star-trails. My 2¢

I have barely tried "Continuous", but it seemed like it was limited to 3 shots. That was even if I held the shutter button down. Perhaps I had setting wrong? I think the LCD showed the buffer had room for 6 to 7 RAWs. Then it showed the busy hour-glass, but I think that varied by how much light there was.

I've done a LOT of 180 degree and 360 degree panos . If at all possible, avoid multi-row panos by using a wider FL / FOV, especially if there is any wind + clouds at all. Clouds can move shot to shot, but they WILL MOVE from the time you do the top row, then move back to do the second row. My 2¢

I mostly use a Canon f.f. with Samyang 14mm uwa. For interiors of 160+ FOV vertical, I'll make two rows of seven = 14 captures, but that is Very Static. The 14mm is sharper than my Samyang 8mm fish-eye, which can capture 360 x 160 degree FOV in 5 shots.

Another suggestion you may or may not be already doing: Enable RAW+JPEG. On my Canon DSLR's I would NEVER use that setting, but RAW only. However, SPP can be so slow that it helps to have JPEG's. They can be viewed to select which RAW's to wrestle with.

I'm thinking of using smaller JPEGS than the default. Even a 16GB SD card fills up pretty fast.

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