Age old digital camera question: SRGB or Adobe RGB

Started Aug 11, 2014 | Discussions thread
Stacey_K Veteran Member • Posts: 8,415
Re: One word: latitude.

MiraShootsNikon wrote:

Stacey_K wrote:

AlephNull wrote:

LMCasey wrote:

Shoot raw, and open in Prophoto. Once ready to post to web or to print, convert to the appropriate color space (sRGB for web, and appropriate colorspace for your printer).

Because Prophoto is a larger gamut, the steps between values are larger.

Which = greater chance for posterization. I don't get why using a color space way larger than any colors in the image is preached as being the best path. A smaller color space will have finer graduations between each color.

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Here's why: latitude.

If you manipulate hue, saturation, or luminance from RAW yourself, you may end up pushing or pulling bits of data from the wider gamut your camera sensor captured into the area that would be covered by the smaller gamut (say, sRGB) in which you'd prefer to output. (Your camera certainly does this when processing sRGB JPEGs itself.) If you throw out the wider range of captured data from the start of your own RAW process, then there's less data with which to edit, ergo less latitude.

But this is all done in the RAW software -before- it is moved into PS for final editing. There is no color space at "The start of your own RAW process". The need for a super wide color space ends with the adjustments in the RAW software. As you said, you have pulled the data the sensor captured into the smaller output color space.

With color spaces, you can very easily conduct an experiment to see this phenomena with your own eyes.

(1) Shoot a JPEG in sRGB and lean hard on the hue slider of your choice in Lightroom or Photoshop. For example, push green tones into yellow. Output.

Did you read my other post? I've always said any -major color edits- should be done from the RAW file. Same with major pulling of shadows, highlights, exposure etc. I would assume "leaning hard" on a color slider in PS = a major color edit.

And I would hope I captured the image in camera well enough to not need to do any major color/exposure adjustments to the JPEG. If I did screw up bad enough to have to "lean hard" on a  slider, that is when I go back and start with the RAW file. You will never find a post where I suggest shooting JPEG only (unless the RAW buffer in the camera is too small, then you have to decide which is more important, having a "fall back" RAW file or potentially missing the capture altogether because the buffer filled up). My position is and has been the RAW file, at least for me, is simply a parachute for when I screw up during capture. Most of the time the OOC JPEG is fine as a starting point.

What you have suggested as a test is comparing a major color edit to a OOC JEPG vs a RAW file. Of course the RAW file works better for big edits like this.

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