RX100 III - overexposed images?

Started Aug 7, 2014 | Discussions thread
Michael Fritzen Veteran Member • Posts: 5,163
Re: contrast..
1

lubej wrote:

Thank you for your discussion. I have learned something new.

To recap (if this is possible). What settings will you use in high mountains with a lot of sun, white rocks...as are pictures from my album.

Will you use different settings for example in not so bright environment (claudy, in streets of a town...).

Hi,

if there was an easy answer non of this discussions would be necessary. Light or better ligting is very relative. And taking into account what exposure metering actually means, roughly speaking an "equalization to an average reflection rate of 18%" (the grey card), gives an idea about the necessity of the photographer's corrective intervention. Not to forget though that many average scene have a reflection rate in the range of 18%. But the best known examples of gross metering errors of the system are essentially white subjects like snow where the uncorrected metering would turn the whites into grey or essential dark subjects where the opposite happens. This is the actual exposure metering. But you have some great evaluation tools at hand in your camera: 1) LCD / EVF because they are WYSIWYG not only considering framing but also for exposure; 2) Histogram which shows imediatley the DISTRIBUITION of the brightness values from dark to bright so a histogram shifted right with clear peaks right (and "beyond") are a clear sign of blown highlights. For correct exposure the histogram should show a well distributed graph, neither shifted left nor right; 3) Zebras (at 100%) which show on the LCD or EVF where with the actual exposure settings highlight clipping would happen.

Remains to point out and repeat that instead of setting previously the camera to certain contrast, sharpening, vibrance, exposure compensation settings which MAY work for a certain situation but also MAY be pretty much off for the next situation it's always a good idea to consider shooting RAW which allows a lot of work and such improvements after the fact. For the convenience one may shoot JPG+RAW but if high quality output is desired it's very likely the RAWs are the better starting point (which of course doesn't mean it's impossible to get excellent JPGs out of the camera but the headroom in the RAWs is just so helpfull WHEN adjustments are needed or desired), This also doesn't mean less attention to correct exposure because avaliable DR is limited.

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Cheers,
Michael Fritzen

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