Would a PRIME lens give me better exposure with my XE1?

Started Jul 10, 2014 | Questions thread
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Jim in Hudson Senior Member • Posts: 1,897
Re: Thank you very much EVERYONE!

Sal Baker wrote:

mistermejia wrote:

Caerolle wrote:

Beat Traveller wrote:

-1 EV compensation will preserve more of the upper sky, but the sun will still be blown in the centre of the image. Besides which, he's said in his post that he wants the tree to be exposed correctly.

The reality for high key scenes like this is that you have to accept that you have three basic options: high DR resulting in lower mid-tone contrast; high contrast but with crushed shadows and blown highlights, or a heavy amount of post-processing to extract maximum DR and preserve mid-tones but with the inevitable HDR halo look.

This is just something you have to accept with current digital sensors, unless you shoot medium format or film. The best approach anyone can take is to understand the limitation and work around it, rather than trying to approach a high key scene with the expectation of getting a technically perfect shot. The OP's third photo from his original set shows an example of this: the blur from the lens at f/2.2 softens the transition between the blown sunlight and the leaves around the tress, so it looks more artistic and not unnatural like his first photo.

The best thing you can do is to go into the shot knowing that you have limitations and shooting with them in mind. If you are keen to preserve mid-tones you can deliberately keep the sky out of the frame, or you if you want to capture the light you can let other parts of the composition go to black and let them act as a frame for the eye.

Yes, and being limited to JPGs just puts you at such a disadvantage, too. You lose soooo much dynamic range.

Good point, good point.

I won't be shooting jpeg ALL the time, now i am more mainly trying to figure out how to operate this little puppy and i am trying to figure out how it behaves in different situations. But for basic things then why not, the jpegs are just wonderful specially under perfect light situations like overcast days or in the morning or in the evening.

Let's face it, jpeg is the better way to learn a camera like this, for shooting RAW would be more like the easy way out to fix or adjust the photo. After all, even if i shoot with the Xe1 in RAW i still prefer to get it right the first time, to make an even better photo in RAW.

I think you are misunderstanding why photographers shoot RAW. Interestingly, most people in this forum who shoot JPEG say they do so because JPEG is faster and easier while RAW processing takes too much time, effort, and is an interruption to their workflow. But just because someone does shoot RAW doesn't mean they aren't getting the settings "right the first time" in the camera. One still needs the best possible exposure, focus, and ability to find the best light with RAW.

The big advantage of RAW is that 8-bit JPEG only has 256 tones/shades separating the colors, 14-bit RAW (X-E2) has over 16,000 tones/shades, and 12-bit RAW (X-E1) has over 4,000 tones. This extra data and tonality comes to play when fixing images like the ones shown.

Also, you have very coarse control of WB with JPEG. You can only set a broad category ("shade, etc.") of WB for jpegs, and then you are using a programmer's opinion of what the color should look like, you have to hope for the best. Most images are influenced dramatically by different color temperatures in the same scene. This can have a huge influence on skin tones/colors that are very hard to fix once the WB is baked-in to the JPEG. You have infinite (within a range) of control over WB with RAW.

For those who always put as much effort into getting the image right whether shooting the RAW or JPEG, RAW is certainly not considered the easy way to go IMO.


This information provided here, as well as the ones in the previous threads, have really helped and i would like to thank everybody for their time and support.

Now, isn't it much better when we ALL get along and say things nicer?

-- hide signature --

Not because I think they are good, but because I would like to improve (feel free to provide me with feedback):

I've found adjustment of WB on JPEG images to be quite feasible -- in most cases.  Probably because the WB is rarely far off to start with.

 Jim in Hudson's gear list:Jim in Hudson's gear list
Olympus E-M1 Pentax K-3 Sigma 10-20mm F4-5.6 EX DC HSM Pentax smc DA 55-300mm F4.0-5.8 ED Pentax smc DA 18-135mm F3.5-5.6ED AL [IF] DC WR +4 more
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