GX7 auto-ISO not auto in S-mode with manual lens

beerbaron · Jun 26, 2014

Hi,

I used to have an EPL2 and I've used an 85mm f1.8 manual focus lens with it lots of times. I recently upgraded to a GX7. I'm still learning, but I can't figure this out:

I would expect that with the ISO set to auto-ISO and in S-mode that the camera would automatically change the ISO setting as required. With the EPL2 I would set a shutter speed I wanted maintained. Then since the aperture was not electronically changeable, the camera would just pick an appropriate ISO to get the right exposure. This was really nice.

The GX7 just stays in ISO200. And it underexposes horribly. And it doesn't show the exposure/EV display to let you know that its going to underexpose. You only find out by reviewing the picture.

I have to use it in M-mode, where at least the exposure/EV display tells me if I've got a reasonable exposure as I set the ISO and shutter speed.

Is there a setting I'm missing?

I'm still on fw 1.0. But I didn't see this as something that got fixed in the fw release notes.

J Birn · Jun 26, 2014

Shutter priority is a mode where the camera adjusts the aperture automatically for you. If your lens needs the aperture chosen manually, then using aperture priority or manual mode sounds reasonable.

It stinks if you can't use Auto ISO in Manual exposure mode on the GX7. Other users have complained about that:

http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/52605523

...and Panasonic is apparently listening, because they allow Auto-ISO when in Manual mode on the gh4.

Ideally, most users want random access to be able to set any of the "big 3" (f-stop, shutter speed, ISO) manually. To not allow you to set the f-stop and shutter speed manually while using auto ISO is a gaping hole in a camera's functionality IMO.

Gregm61 · Jun 26, 2014

beerbaron said:
Hi,

I used to have an EPL2 and I've used an 85mm f1.8 manual focus lens with it lots of times. I recently upgraded to a GX7. I'm still learning, but I can't figure this out:

I would expect that with the ISO set to auto-ISO and in S-mode that the camera would automatically change the ISO setting as required. With the EPL2 I would set a shutter speed I wanted maintained. Then since the aperture was not electronically changeable, the camera would just pick an appropriate ISO to get the right exposure. This was really nice.

The GX7 just stays in ISO200. And it underexposes horribly. And it doesn't show the exposure/EV display to let you know that its going to underexpose. You only find out by reviewing the picture.

I have to use it in M-mode, where at least the exposure/EV display tells me if I've got a reasonable exposure as I set the ISO and shutter speed.

Is there a setting I'm missing?

I'm still on fw 1.0. But I didn't see this as something that got fixed in the fw release notes.

Panasonic models prior to the GH4 are definitely not as flexible in terms of how the auto ISO is applied compared to Olympus. In S mode the camera is supposed to pick the aperture, but Panasonic may not have the GX7 set up to just read the opening and adjust the ISO based on your selected shutter speed. You may have to use a fully dedicated micro four-thirds lenses in order to use the A, S (possibly even P) modes with auto ISO. I say may, as I have not tried this with my GX7.

Do you have the shooting with no lens attached option activated? I have noticed that setting in scanning the menus before but have not tried it since I have only used micro-specific lenses with that camera.

--
"There's shadows in life, baby.." Jack Horner- Boogie Nights

beerbaron · Jun 26, 2014

See I can understand the rational behind no auto-ISO in manual mode. But this is s-mode. It has the auto-ISO option. Its just always choses 200. It feels like a bug.

in m-mode the auto-ISO option is not there so I don't expect the camera to choose the ISO for me.

J Birn · Jun 26, 2014

beerbaron said:
See I can understand the rational behind no auto-ISO in manual mode.

I get your point that there are times you want to manually adjust all 3 of the big 3 factors, and it makes sense to call that "manual" mode. But the interface design of choosing "M" on the mode dial to set both the shutter speed and the aperture is mostly just a hold-over from film cameras, and adding extra limits in that mode was more a quirk of history than a rational design limitation. In film cameras, there were only 2 main exposure parameters you could set from shot to shot instead of 3 (you couldn't adjust the ISO/ASA on a shot-by-shot basis because it was a built-in property of the film stock), but there were no 'forbidden' combinations of parameters, either. You could set whatever you wanted to manually, and let whatever else be set automatically. With digital, if you take away the option of Auto ISO when the mode is set to "M", it creates a forbidden combination -- and it sounds like that's the combination you'd ideally want in this case. You want to set both your aperture and shutter speed manually, but still use auto ISO. I'm glad Panasonic has joined other companies in allowing that option, at least on its newest cameras (and maybe someday in a new firmware update as well?)

beerbaron said:
But this is s-mode. It has the auto-ISO option. Its just always choses 200. It feels like a bug.

It sounds like the problem is that it isn't succeeding in automatically setting the aperture for you, the way it's programmed to in s-mode. If you switch to aperture priority mode I bet it will adjust the shutter speed and (if needed) the ISO for you to adapt to the aperture you're manually choosing. Also, try setting the camera to "shoot without lens" as an option if your lens isn't communicating electronically with it, that should improve its behavior.

-jeremy

Ontario Gone · Jun 26, 2014

I still don't get why anybody would want to use auto ISO when in manual mode anyway. I had the same option when i shot Pentax, they call it TAV mode, and i only used it once when i knew for a fact i was going to need high ISO. The problem is when you hit a bright spot in the environment, and if the camera needs to drop below base ISO, it can't and you overexpose the shot.

On a GX7, better to simply shoot in M mode so you can see real time exposure with your eyes as you compose. Set your SS to what you need, set your aperture to what you prefer, then adjust ISO until the brightness of the scene is acceptable.

J Birn · Jun 28, 2014

Ontario Gone said:
I still don't get why anybody would want to use auto ISO when in manual mode anyway. I had the same option when i shot Pentax, they call it TAV mode, and i only used it once when i knew for a fact i was going to need high ISO.

It's interesting to hear that perspective. When I'm shooting with available light in dimmer rooms, I do most of my photography in manual mode with auto ISO. I can dial in the aperture I want (starting wide-opened, but I'll shut down a few stops if I need to for group shots), the shutter speed I want (a slow 1/30th second is my user preset, but I go faster when I can, or if I'm shooting people or animals in motion.) Then I can keep shooting through an entire event without needing to tweak those, because variations between brighter and dimmer parts of the location are covered by the Auto ISO.

Ontario Gone said:
The problem is when you hit a bright spot in the environment, and if the camera needs to drop below base ISO, it can't and you overexpose the shot.

That's true for Manual mode in general, whether you use Auto ISO or not. Once you've chosen settings for a dim room, your camera will not be adjusted to go out in the bright sun. It's also true any time you manually set 2 out of the big 3 exposure parameters, such as shutter priority with manual ISO, or aperture priority with manual ISO.

I just use user presets on my mode dial, so I have one for the low-light settings I prefer, and another for the settings I use outside on a sunny day. I can click between then immediately. Having manual exposure mode with auto ISO as my go-to preset for lower light settings works great in this context.

Ontario Gone said:
On a GX7, better to simply shoot in M mode so you can see real time exposure with your eyes as you compose.

That's something I hadn't heard before -- can you not see the exposure in real time as you compose when you use Auto ISO on the gx7? In most EVF cameras you can, and I rely on that.

-jeremy

EarthQuake · Jun 28, 2014

Ontario Gone said:
I still don't get why anybody would want to use auto ISO when in manual mode anyway. I had the same option when i shot Pentax, they call it TAV mode, and i only used it once when i knew for a fact i was going to need high ISO. The problem is when you hit a bright spot in the environment, and if the camera needs to drop below base ISO, it can't and you overexpose the shot.

On a GX7, better to simply shoot in M mode so you can see real time exposure with your eyes as you compose. Set your SS to what you need, set your aperture to what you prefer, then adjust ISO until the brightness of the scene is acceptable.

G1Houston · Jun 28, 2014

Ontario Gone said:
I still don't get why anybody would want to use auto ISO when in manual mode anyway.

If you just think of it as a M-mode, not "manual" then hopefully you can begin to see why it should be there. In Pentax, they called it the S and A priority mode. It is me who struggle to understand why auto-iso in M mode is a "bad" thing to some when you can choose not to use it. All the problems you mentioned are not caused by auto-ISO, but auto-ISO can help photographing at varying light levels so much easier.

Even with the mighty D4s and D810 from Nikon, enabling auto-ISO in M-mode in live view is a headline feature ...

When shooting outdoors with shade, I will use the spot meter to scan various areas to get a feel of the difference in light levels and then set a shutter speed that is not too high not too low so the ISO can change within a reasonable range.

Ontario Gone · Jun 28, 2014

J Birn said:
J Birn said:

The problem is when you hit a bright spot in the environment, and if the camera needs to drop below base ISO, it can't and you overexpose the shot.

Click to expand...

That's true for Manual mode in general, whether you use Auto ISO or not. Once you've chosen settings for a dim room, your camera will not be adjusted to go out in the bright sun. It's also true any time you manually set 2 out of the big 3 exposure parameters, such as shutter priority with manual ISO, or aperture priority with manual ISO.

It is true for any of the partial auto modes as you say, but i have found it's much easier to judge the exposure of a scene by seeing it in the composition (real time exposure) rather than always glancing down at a number that keeps changing. I guess i figure, if i have to keep an eye on exposure anyway, auto ISO isn't really taking the load off me afterall.

That's what auto modes are supposed to do, to make automated adjustments so we don't have to worry about as much. It just seems like little is gained if i still have to worry about a bright stop in the scene causing overexposure, no different than shooting any other mode. If it works for you then that's cool, it's just not for me i guess.

J Birn said:
J Birn said:

On a GX7, better to simply shoot in M mode so you can see real time exposure with your eyes as you compose.

Click to expand...

That's something I hadn't heard before -- can you not see the exposure in real time as you compose when you use Auto ISO on the gx7? In most EVF cameras you can, and I rely on that.

I guess it depends on how they would implement it, but Manual mode is the only mode that lets you see real time exposure on a GX7. Since A/S are designed around the camera keeping things level, they didn't bother adding it in those modes.

Ontario Gone · Jun 28, 2014

G1Houston said:
Ontario Gone said:

I still don't get why anybody would want to use auto ISO when in manual mode anyway.

Click to expand...

If you just think of it as a M-mode, not "manual" then hopefully you can begin to see why it should be there. In Pentax, they called it the S and A priority mode.

Im not following you here. Isn't M the same as Manual mode? And, my K5-IIs had TAv mode, which was the same as a manual mode with auto ISO.

G1Houston said:
It is me who struggle to understand why auto-iso in M mode is a "bad" thing to some when you can choose not to use it. All the problems you mentioned are not caused by auto-ISO, but auto-ISO can help photographing at varying light levels so much easier.

I don't think it's bad to have it, but i also didn't see the usefulness of having it either. Perhaps if you shoot a DSLR where you can't see real time exposure it would be, and that's why it's so popular with some of those. If you can see the exposure in the actual scene, it becomes less an issue. I never stare at numbers in my VF when im shooting my GX7, im either in A mode with the camera well over the SS i need (i usually shoot A mode in daylight), or im in manual mode where i see the brightness as i compose.

neil holmes · Jun 28, 2014

beerbaron said:
Hi,

I used to have an EPL2 and I've used an 85mm f1.8 manual focus lens with it lots of times. I recently upgraded to a GX7. I'm still learning, but I can't figure this out:

I would expect that with the ISO set to auto-ISO and in S-mode that the camera would automatically change the ISO setting as required. With the EPL2 I would set a shutter speed I wanted maintained. Then since the aperture was not electronically changeable, the camera would just pick an appropriate ISO to get the right exposure. This was really nice.

The GX7 just stays in ISO200. And it underexposes horribly. And it doesn't show the exposure/EV display to let you know that its going to underexpose. You only find out by reviewing the picture.

I have to use it in M-mode, where at least the exposure/EV display tells me if I've got a reasonable exposure as I set the ISO and shutter speed.

Is there a setting I'm missing?

I'm still on fw 1.0. But I didn't see this as something that got fixed in the fw release notes.

S mode how you are using it IS essentially manual. The aperture is set by you on the lens and you are using the camera mode and choosing the shutter speed. That just leaves ISO which I agree done right SHOULD change as required (and done right is not really fully manual as others have said)....since ISO doesn't not change this way, then you can say it is manual mode!

It is a little bit annoying for stills but very annoying for video...since the GX7 ISO maxes out at 3200 in video... and the light can be changing while filming and I don't want to be fiddling around with the ISO button.

SO much easier and better to have a manual lens set at the aperture you want, the shutter speed you want and let the camera choose the ISO.

It is one of the things I don't like about the GX7 (and one of the things I love about the A7).

Tom Caldwell · Jun 28, 2014

beerbaron said:
Hi,

I used to have an EPL2 and I've used an 85mm f1.8 manual focus lens with it lots of times. I recently upgraded to a GX7. I'm still learning, but I can't figure this out:

I would expect that with the ISO set to auto-ISO and in S-mode that the camera would automatically change the ISO setting as required. With the EPL2 I would set a shutter speed I wanted maintained. Then since the aperture was not electronically changeable, the camera would just pick an appropriate ISO to get the right exposure. This was really nice.

The GX7 just stays in ISO200. And it underexposes horribly. And it doesn't show the exposure/EV display to let you know that its going to underexpose. You only find out by reviewing the picture.

I have to use it in M-mode, where at least the exposure/EV display tells me if I've got a reasonable exposure as I set the ISO and shutter speed.

Is there a setting I'm missing?

I'm still on fw 1.0. But I didn't see this as something that got fixed in the fw release notes.

The GM1 (as the GX7 little brother?) does much the same thing but there are a whole lot of rational/irrational effects accross the board which I summarised into a table for my own understanding:

There are three types of lenses that can be attached - native M4/3 AF lenses (NMAF); chipped M4/3 lenses that are MF (NMMF); and, fully manual lenses (FMF)

Behaviour is smmarised as:

AAP = Aperture is adjusted to a programmed limit before adjusting ISO

SIP = Shutter to 1/125 the ISO to 200 then shutter. ISO 200 until 1/640 then ISO to upper limit then shutter.

SAP = Shutter to 1/60 before adjusting ISO.

FIS = ISO fixed at 200 ISO until lens programmed shutter limit.

D = Auto ISO defaults to fixed 200 ISO.

How it seems to work (corrections happily accepted)

Program shift: NMAF=AAP; NMMF=SIP; FMF=SIP

Aperture Priority: NMAF=SAP; NMMF=SIP; FMF=SIP.

Shutter Priority:: NMAF=FIS; NMMF=FIS; FMF=D.

Manual: All modes = D

In all modes with all lenses the LCD reflects approximate lumination of capture except Shutter Priority FMF which does not reflect the luminance.

Sorry for the coding and complicatio - anyone interested might have to make a pencil chart from this information and test a GX7 against it.

There are other inconsistencies with the GM1 but there are more probably due more to the GM1 minimalist interface and I will not complicate matters further here. Enough to say that 100% MF lenses on the GM1 are borderline workable in Shutter Priority Mode and are best used in Manual Mode. This seems more a programmingg issue than anything else.

--
Tom Caldwell

Tom Caldwell · Jun 28, 2014

J Birn said:
beerbaron said:

See I can understand the rational behind no auto-ISO in manual mode.

Click to expand...

I get your point that there are times you want to manually adjust all 3 of the big 3 factors, and it makes sense to call that "manual" mode. But the interface design of choosing "M" on the mode dial to set both the shutter speed and the aperture is mostly just a hold-over from film cameras, and adding extra limits in that mode was more a quirk of history than a rational design limitation. In film cameras, there were only 2 main exposure parameters you could set from shot to shot instead of 3 (you couldn't adjust the ISO/ASA on a shot-by-shot basis because it was a built-in property of the film stock), but there were no 'forbidden' combinations of parameters, either. You could set whatever you wanted to manually, and let whatever else be set automatically. With digital, if you take away the option of Auto ISO when the mode is set to "M", it creates a forbidden combination -- and it sounds like that's the combination you'd ideally want in this case. You want to set both your aperture and shutter speed manually, but still use auto ISO. I'm glad Panasonic has joined other companies in allowing that option, at least on its newest cameras (and maybe someday in a new firmware update as well?)

J Birn said:

But this is s-mode. It has the auto-ISO option. Its just always choses 200. It feels like a bug.

Click to expand...

It sounds like the problem is that it isn't succeeding in automatically setting the aperture for you, the way it's programmed to in s-mode. If you switch to aperture priority mode I bet it will adjust the shutter speed and (if needed) the ISO for you to adapt to the aperture you're manually choosing. Also, try setting the camera to "shoot without lens" as an option if your lens isn't communicating electronically with it, that should improve its behavior.

-jeremy

Tom Caldwell · Jun 28, 2014

Ontario Gone said:
J Birn said:

Ontario Gone said:

The problem is when you hit a bright spot in the environment, and if the camera needs to drop below base ISO, it can't and you overexpose the shot.

Click to expand...

That's true for Manual mode in general, whether you use Auto ISO or not. Once you've chosen settings for a dim room, your camera will not be adjusted to go out in the bright sun. It's also true any time you manually set 2 out of the big 3 exposure parameters, such as shutter priority with manual ISO, or aperture priority with manual ISO.

Click to expand...

It is true for any of the partial auto modes as you say, but i have found it's much easier to judge the exposure of a scene by seeing it in the composition (real time exposure) rather than always glancing down at a number that keeps changing. I guess i figure, if i have to keep an eye on exposure anyway, auto ISO isn't really taking the load off me afterall.

That's what auto modes are supposed to do, to make automated adjustments so we don't have to worry about as much. It just seems like little is gained if i still have to worry about a bright stop in the scene causing overexposure, no different than shooting any other mode. If it works for you then that's cool, it's just not for me i guess.

Ontario Gone said:

Ontario Gone said:

On a GX7, better to simply shoot in M mode so you can see real time exposure with your eyes as you compose.

Click to expand...

That's something I hadn't heard before -- can you not see the exposure in real time as you compose when you use Auto ISO on the gx7? In most EVF cameras you can, and I rely on that.

Click to expand...

I guess it depends on how they would implement it, but Manual mode is the only mode that lets you see real time exposure on a GX7. Since A/S are designed around the camera keeping things level, they didn't bother adding it in those modes.

Tom Caldwell · Jun 28, 2014

Ontario Gone said:
G1Houston said:

Ontario Gone said:

I still don't get why anybody would want to use auto ISO when in manual mode anyway.

Click to expand...

If you just think of it as a M-mode, not "manual" then hopefully you can begin to see why it should be there. In Pentax, they called it the S and A priority mode.

Click to expand...

Im not following you here. Isn't M the same as Manual mode? And, my K5-IIs had TAv mode, which was the same as a manual mode with auto ISO.

Using the GM1 as an example: chipped M4/3 lenses in S Mode follow TAv mode in S mode by using 200 ISO as fixed until the set shutter speed reaches the lens aperture limitations and then adjusts ISO to the preset auto-ISO upper limit - once this limitation is exceeded it will not go further but the settings will change to red and flash. This is eminently sensible and seem to give the advantages of TAv and regular S mode at the same time by selecting either Auto or fixed ISO and putting a user limitation on far you are prepared to let your ISO float out.

Where the GM1 at least falls in a heap is if you have a non-chipped fully manual lens the camera has no way of telling what the lens aperture is and simply takes the easy way out of more or less limiting the reflected exposure of the image on the lcd and fixing the ISO at 200 even if Auto was previously set (acting very dumb indeed). However it is possible to go into the ISO setting routine and change the ISO to a fixed amount that might suit thereby over-riding the default fixed 200 of the Auto setting. The lcd still does not reflect the true exposure level though - for any lens! This is obviously a considerable bug and not much help when in some sort of hurry. A more experienced user might just as well use M mode and set everything and have it reflected on the lcd display (but here there is no Auto ISO). In M mode the exposure bar is also live and allows a further level of assessing likely exposure effect. But in S mode the user does not even get that and is literally in the dark or washed out when the actual image is captured. As M mode can reflect exposure on the lcd display and show the exposure bar guide then not having these aids in S mode for full MF lenses only must be a simple and very obvious program oversight.

Ontario Gone said:
Ontario Gone said:

It is me who struggle to understand why auto-iso in M mode is a "bad" thing to some when you can choose not to use it. All the problems you mentioned are not caused by auto-ISO, but auto-ISO can help photographing at varying light levels so much easier.

Click to expand...

I don't think it's bad to have it, but i also didn't see the usefulness of having it either. Perhaps if you shoot a DSLR where you can't see real time exposure it would be, and that's why it's so popular with some of those. If you can see the exposure in the actual scene, it becomes less an issue. I never stare at numbers in my VF when im shooting my GX7, im either in A mode with the camera well over the SS i need (i usually shoot A mode in daylight), or im in manual mode where i see the brightness as i compose.

--
"Run to the light, Carol Anne. Run as fast as you can!"

--
Tom Caldwell

alcelc · Jun 28, 2014

EarthQuake said:
Ontario Gone said:

I still don't get why anybody would want to use auto ISO when in manual mode anyway. I had the same option when i shot Pentax, they call it TAV mode, and i only used it once when i knew for a fact i was going to need high ISO. The problem is when you hit a bright spot in the environment, and if the camera needs to drop below base ISO, it can't and you overexpose the shot.

On a GX7, better to simply shoot in M mode so you can see real time exposure with your eyes as you compose. Set your SS to what you need, set your aperture to what you prefer, then adjust ISO until the brightness of the scene is acceptable.

--
"Run to the light, Carol Anne. Run as fast as you can!"

Click to expand...

The problem here is that you're thinking of it as manual with auto ISO, thats not really what it is.

Its a shutter AND aperture priority semi-auto mode, where the ISO is the 3rd variable and it is set automatically. On the Pentax its very clearly labeled as such as well.

This is very useful for certain situations, like when you need to control DOF, and also need to control shutter speed, for instance to ensure you have enough in focus and a fast enough shutter speed to freeze motion in action photography. If you have even slight variance in light, auto ISO is really helpful in this situation.

The issue with over/underexposure in certain situations is not mutually exclusive to manual+auto ISO/TAV mode, but can happen in any mode if the situation pushes your settings beyond their limits. Its a total non-issue.

Shooting in full manual is not a solution, again especially for any sort of action photography where you will not likely have time to methodically tweak your settings as someone runs from from shade to partial shade to full sun etc. Though how many people shoot like this on a camera like the GX7 is certainly up for debate.

I shall use iA+ which means automatic A, S & ISO, plus auto scene selection whereas we still have +/- ev control. I'll use it in case of very fast shooting opportunity that suddenly coming up that I'll have no time to response. Or when I ask someone to take a picture for me.

EarthQuake said:
The biggest limitation with this A+S priority mode tends to be that you no longer have any way to set exposure compensation, on most cameras that support it at least. Even the Fuji XT1 which has a dedicated exposure comp dial doesn't allow it, which is very unfortunate.

beerbaron · Jun 28, 2014

Exactly. It just makes no sense they way Panasonic did this. If I select auto-ISO then I expect that the correct ISO will be chosen to make the exposure work. But here in s-mode you a bad exposure with no warning.

I wonder what happens with the body-cap lens? Is s-mode useless with that lens too?

Tom Caldwell · Jun 28, 2014

beerbaron said:
Exactly. It just makes no sense they way Panasonic did this. If I select auto-ISO then I expect that the correct ISO will be chosen to make the exposure work. But here in s-mode you a bad exposure with no warning.

I wonder what happens with the body-cap lens? Is s-mode useless with that lens too?

I spent a happy hour or so runninng a few different lenses through the GM1 - I have not repeated them with the GX7 but from posts on this thread it would seem that the GX7 behaves in much the same way.

Simply put Auto ISO works with lenses that register to the body as being there - presumably all chipped ones. I have not tried the body cap lenses (I have both) but I will try them later when I have the time.

The trouble is with this sort of testing is that there are three different possible lens types that can be mounted and quite a few other variables. Not only that the fact that the various mode settings have their own pre-programmed sets of adjustments to be followed as the key setting are changed. So many variables as it is hard to have tested them all and made the correct assumptions. I tried - see my post elsewhere on theis thread.

The biggest problem is that support for fully manual lenses in S mode is almost nil, but you can get around this to a point. Furthermore it is inexcusable that the LCD does not reflect the exposure level set for S mode for ANY lens - I just tried a Nocticron on the GX7 to be sure. And yet switching to M mode will give a good approximation immediately.

Therefore S mode works to a point but it is a pretty rough implementation.

alcelc · Jun 28, 2014

EarthQuake said:
Ontario Gone said:

I still don't get why anybody would want to use auto ISO when in manual mode anyway. I had the same option when i shot Pentax, they call it TAV mode, and i only used it once when i knew for a fact i was going to need high ISO. The problem is when you hit a bright spot in the environment, and if the camera needs to drop below base ISO, it can't and you overexpose the shot.

On a GX7, better to simply shoot in M mode so you can see real time exposure with your eyes as you compose. Set your SS to what you need, set your aperture to what you prefer, then adjust ISO until the brightness of the scene is acceptable.

Click to expand...

GX7 auto-ISO not auto in S-mode with manual lens

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