Bragging about our expensive mirrorless/DSLR vs a point and shoot

Started Jun 16, 2014 | Discussions thread
djezraj Contributing Member • Posts: 737
Re: Bragging about our expensive mirrorless/DSLR vs a point and shoot

mistermejia wrote:

Jit L wrote:

Hi mistermejia, which metering mode did you use? I had similar issues in the past with my X-E1 and I found adjusting the metering mode helps plus the AF box as well.

Multi, i guess what the nikon would call it matrix. I tried all three different metering settings. For that situation spot gave me the best to boost the subject in front, but i would have to sacrifice the beautiful background because it would have blown the highlights as always.

What some people here don't understand is that i DID tried shooting that scene in different ways, in manual, A, S, I tried all dynamic ranges and ISO, and yes, that first photo was shot in full AUTO. Like i said, i CAN expose the subject with the camera, i am not stupid, but i would have to sacrifice the background. That's why i re-shot that portrait in RAW to fix it later, since i did not have my SB600 with me. And the pop up flash of the XE1 i find it very weak for those situations indeed.

It is very funny to me when someone jumps right away to insult you without knowing anything about you or not knowing what else you tried already. The usual comment: "I'm sorry but my advice is for you to learn the camera, you shot it wrong, the camera was in AUTO, you needed a ND filter bla bla bla"...

Personally I think there are situations where P&S works better than the Fuji and I use my Canon S100 or iPhone 5 for those. But when I really want to bring out those colors, sharpness, beautiful bokeh from the old manual lenses I turn to Fuji. Probably not the answer you were looking for, just my personal view. Good luck!

I agree. some point and shoot do some things better. I think that better performance or functions of the point and shoot should also be included in the more expensive bodies as well. Isn't that what we are paying for after all, to take easier and faster good looking photos?

I don't have a problem in shooting raw and fixing later, but i do have lots of family in different parts of the world, and i wanted to post THAT photo in facebook right there at that moment, not three days later

Hi Mistermejia. Looking at your posts and history I see a familiar pattern in my own development. It was very often that my Dslr would either produce underexposed subjects or blown out backgrounds. This in stark contrast to some Point and shoots and especially my iPhone using the HDR function which works very well.

So two things are true 1. The iPhone as well as many P&S cameras have incredible jpeg processing, for example Sony's DRO does get high praise. 2. larger sensor cameras such as DSLR and mirror less systems that are geared towards the "pro" or enthusiast market can get equal results but in some cases more work.

I would add that any camera with a leaf shutter does have an advantage and if you discover this I am not sure this is the sole reason for your example.

So If I were to take a guess at what happened at the beach my best guess says that the Sonny has a very good auto mode and auto DRO because it assumes the user has less knowledge or less ambition to decide the best settings, so Sony does this for them,

You may have been better off with auto everything with the Fuji, In the Q menu try these settings DR either auto or 200 (400 may look to washed out) aperture auto and ISO auto. You can also set the Hi tone to -2 to reduce contrast in the hi lights and of course Low tone -2 to bring up the dark contrast. I prefer Pro Neg std for skin tones and hi contrasty backlit scenes but Astia is also nice.

At this point you may want to save these preferences as a custom setting.

When looking at the screen make sure the camera is letting you preview exposure so you can see the blown out background live. The histogram will also help with this. You can then either use the Exp compensation dial or point the relative centre of the frame to the sky and lock the exposure with the AE lock button (this takes a bit of "button click" practice)

If you are really feeling daring.Again with everything on auto use the menu to put the flash in auto and pop it up. For me in this mode my Xe-2 never misses, however if i override the auto modes the flash will revert to default. You can also dial the flash down in the main menu.

So if you have read this and are thinking (too much work... ) Then perhaps the Sony route all fit your style better for now? No shame in a system thats auto mode suits you better.

The X series above the M1 and A1 perhaps are too manual for some. Fuji allows so much user intervention perhaps this is too much for others. For me it is perfect but I admit it takes some getting used to.

It is natural to flip flop between worlds 1. you want to learn 2. you want it to just know what you want. Each brand has its advantages disadvantages.

Despite the excellent DRO the Sony systems save for the A7 require to much menu diving for me but I can see how a RX100 or a A6000 might suit you better personally .

Before making any rash decisions perhaps try the all auto mode with Kit lens and let the camera do what it does, and analyze what settings it chooses. Also tr the film and shadow settings on the same scene and see how close you can get.

I hope this helps


 djezraj's gear list:djezraj's gear list
Fujifilm X-E2 Tamron SP AF 90mm F/2.8 Di Macro Fujifilm XF 35mm F1.4 R Fujifilm XF 14mm F2.8 R Fujifilm XF 18-55mm F2.8-4 R LM OIS +1 more
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