Crop Factor, Low Light and Aperture with m4/3 lenses?

Started Jun 15, 2014 | Discussions thread
Anders W Forum Pro • Posts: 21,468
Re: A picture is worth...
2

Just another Canon shooter wrote:

Anders W wrote:

Just another Canon shooter wrote:

Anders W wrote:

I need to correct myself here.

I looked at the SS and the apertures again (ISO is irrelevant), and the total light is the same in the original link.

Good that you have eventually recognized that.

Yeah but I did not do it based on the ISO.

The error you made was to set the ISO for FF too low relative to MFT in the comparison, right?

OK, this is the final time. I computed/compared wrongly the EV values. I disregarded the ISO completely. Click on the small "i" there, this is where the exposure info is hidden. It has nothing to do with the ISO.

Oh my God. Are you saying that you are still unaware that the f-stop and shutter speeds reported when you click on that "i" cannot be used to determine how much exposure a certain camera got since the light in the studio is not controlled and not kept constant?

The only way you can compare different exposures when using the DPR studio scene is by varying the ISO.

Where the efficiency difference is most noticeable depends on the individual sensor. For some FF sensors (e.g., A7, A7r, and D800) the efficiency difference is large at higher ISOs but small at lower. For the Canon 6D, it is the other way around. The 6D has worse DR at base ISO than the E-M1 (12.1 versus 12.7), not two EV better as would be expected if the sensors were equally efficient.

That is by your definition of efficiency.

This is based on the fact that the signal-noise performance in the dark tones is of greater perceptual importance than the signal-noise performance in the brighter tones. Both the 6D and the E-M1 will do perfectly well in every regard at base ISO as long as you don't push the shadows. If you do, the E-M1 will do better.

Well, the 6D/800D will do 2 stops better that "perfectly well", and this is color dependent. People call that tonality, "elasticity" of the RAW for pp, etc. The OM-D will do 0.6 EV better if you push the shadows.

What I pointed out that you will see the difference in quality in favor of the E-M1 if you push the shadows since shadow noise is perceptually evident. You won't see any difference in "tonality" or "elasticity". If you have an example to the contrary, please provide it.

 Anders W's gear list:Anders W's gear list
Panasonic Lumix DMC-G1 Olympus OM-D E-M5 Olympus E-M1 Panasonic Lumix G Vario 14-45mm F3.5-5.6 ASPH OIS Panasonic Lumix G Vario 7-14mm F4 ASPH +28 more
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